Well right now I have a PLX wideband and gauge I plan to use but I was wondering if the Innovate SCG-1 would be a better option to go with for boost? Right now I assume the only boost controller I will be using is Hondata

 

My aem gauge been rock solid for 10 years. The sensors are cheap and can pick them up from autozone

innovative makes cheap gauges. I bought one one and it was not working out of the box

 

The Tru-BoostX Boost Controller Gauge? I've seen a lot of people use AEM gauges lately.

 

I also like what I see here with the response time

 

Unless youre getting super picky with afr numbers get the older gauge with the cheaper sensors.

At the end of the day youre pulling one number from 4 cylinders.

 

The innovate are way more faster and accurate than the AEM afr gauges in my opinion! just compare them, AEM bounces around with all sorts of numbers constantly while the Innovate are steady and accurate. Looking at a AEM gauge just makes my head hurt!

They use pretty much the same sensors from auto zone! under a $100 I believe.

And i wouldn't say they make cheap gauges I've never heard of any issues on the quality of the gauge itself. You may of just had a defective one.

I have had plenty out the box brand new AEM products that were defective and have failed! AEM ( Another Engine Malfunction)

AEM V2 EMS brand new failed after 6 months
AEM pencil coils failed out the box on the dyno (AEM replaced for free!)

I'm sure i have a few more but Its all preference and experience to each their own i guess right?

 

My gauge doesnt bounce around at all. Id say that was in your tune. If you have crappy resolution then it would definitely make it bouncy.

 

While I have an older 2nd gen PLX DM6 wideband, I don't think I could recommend them nowadays as PLX has seemed to limit their offerings over the years. Now they basically have either their wideband or the 'pro' sensor module for inputs aside from just a wideband.

For what it's worth I also have a spare 2nd gen PLX DM6 that contacted them around a year ago about as it doesn't work and there's something burnt up on the board inside. They said since my unit is older it's not serviceable since they no longer carry the spare parts or components to repair the board. I then asked for an electronics schematic so I could go about repairing the board myself and was told "That is not something we have available to share".

I get that it's old but if you can't fix it for me, at least let me have the resources to try fixing it on my own

 

While searching on this forum about a year ago or so PLX continuously came up as a top choice for AFR gauge. I have the gauge with the red box.

 

Plx I’ve heard always good
in boats mtx-l is good
Must really wire a relay and let it heat up

the aem uego I. I got I’m excited to install. Very small!!

I have the old old aem. 030-4100. The lsu 4.2. Very laggy but works

i know all genuine lsu 4.9 last 5-10k miles

but the ntk o2. Last up to 30-50k
just the. Conversion adapter is $50 the o2 is $50

 

PLX has better heater control than Innovate, who have always seemed to have sensor-life issues. I also prefer that PLX uses a standalone controller that you can easily attach to the ecu case and forgo the gauge altogether.

I just upgraded my Gen II or Gen III (can't remember, I had it so long) last year to a Gen IV, only because I wanted to use an LSU4.9 sensor instead of buying an older, slower 4.2. 4.9's are also way reliable. I've never seen one fail in the field, they are basically universal in motorsport. Even the ones that run in the IndyCar dyno cells at work have tons of miles on them and still hold calibration.

That being said, the older LSU4.2 was working fine when I took it off with almost 10 years of use and >100k miles, and it's currently living a new life on a friend's turbo Wago project.

Only complaint about the newer PLX boxes is that they moved away from the extruded aluminum cases to a plastic case, but this is minor.

No matter what, get something that has digital output if you are using Hondata. Use the digital for your tuning/viewing/logging, and use the analog out to D12 for any closed-loop control. Works great.

 

11 years on my AEM and still going strong. Original sensor.

 

OP, why are you looking at an all-in-one boost controller/ lambda sensor if you are going to use the Hondata control?

 

I've read electric boost controllers are better than Hondata alone, I cannot verify that.

Plus I like the shift light feature.