Hello guys im new so sorry if the thread is not in the right section. So im planning to build a Honda. I plan for turbo accord 6 gen 2.0i sedan with manual or civic 6 gen 5 door hatch 1.6 125hp or 1.5 vtec-e. I plan to get big turbo and tune it firstly up to 200hp without changing pistons etc because i want to see if 200hp fits my needs and if not then im going to change internals. Both cars will have A/C and LPG so the question really here is which car would be easier to turbo it without removing the A/C and which car will be actually worth it ?

 

The 6th generation Civic will have more parts available including an A/C compatible turbo kit. Trying 200HP and not changing the pistons is a good idea to start with. Your engine should be able to handle it as long as it’s in good condition. You’ll need to upgrade your clutch if the Civic is a manual, and an automatic might hold 200HP but not much more. You don’t need a “big” turbo if only going for 200HP, so you can choose something smaller that spools quickly.
I think the 6th generation Civic is worth turbocharging. If you do plan on going over 220HP or so and do pistons/connecting rods, it can get very involved and not that inexpensive.

 

Thanks for the answer. Okay i will stick to civic thanks a lot for the help. I thought of gt3582 what turbo or turbo kit you will suggest to me for 200hp i dont want big PSI so i dont blow my engine, clutch and everything else wont be a problem they aren't expensive. One more question I'm really into the idea of getting economic d15 and boost it to 170-200hp max without removing the head so i can keep the liter per 100 kilometres as low as i can, do you think thats possible? I would probably get d15 eco because here they aren't rare like d16 vtec so if there's any problems with the head I will remove it. Thanks a lot again!

 

PSI is not what kills the engine. it is the amount of converted airflow that the turbocharger makes at a given psi is what determines if the there is too much power for the engine to handle. Using something as large as a GT3582 or similar size is a terrible idea, and will only cause turbocharger lag, undesired boost levels, and terrible drivability. (Ask yourself, have you ever seen a stock 1.5 litre using something as large a as a GT35 sized turbo? Or any other manufacturer model for that matter? I bet the answer is no. There's a reason for that.) I suggest staying with something VERY small, use good 93 Octane fuel, and get a complete system as much as possible. One of the few companies left that deal with this platform is Go-Autoworks. You don't even have to get their whole kit, but at least their "hot parts" portion should help you out until you learn more.

Perhaps what you need to do in order to find out what size turbocharger that you need to have to really check up on the FAQs and stickies at the top of the forum page, There is over 20 years of information on doing this, and many have now been updated to the most recent parts availability. But just because you may see something that is over 10 years old, doesn't mean that the information has changed since then. There is still understanding the basics of engine/turbocharger management and utility. So, take the time to look at those areas also.

Good luck to you.

 

The Civic is a good choice, but the Accord can be turbocharged also, it might just take some fabrication work, but the Accord has decent aftermarket support too if you like that car better or want to take that route. Decide which one you like better. The Civic is much lighter weight so that’s a big advantage for acceleration and cornering.
The GT3582 (I think the modern version is the Garrett GTX3582R) is way too big and too expensive. It is meant for set ups from 400-600 horsepower approximately.
A turbo kit suggestion is:
Go-Autoworks street AC compatible kit with the most entry level turbocharger that is included with their kit-no need to upgrade for anything less than 300HP. I have some Go-Autoworks turbocharger components and they are good quality. There used to be a bunch of turbo kits offered for the 6th gen Civic but not many any more. Avoid Ebay turbo kits.
No need to remove the cylinder head to change anything for your goal of 200HP, but if you are in the market for the Civic try to get a mechanic to look it over and do a compression test of the cylinders before your purchase it. If the seller is fair they shouldn’t mind. I’m not sure which country you’re in but all 6th gen civics in the US have a 1.6Liter engine, I think. I’d choose either stock engine really just make sure it’s a manual transmission.
I agree. I got their hot side parts- exhaust manifold, dump tube, and downpipe and I recommend you choose them if you get the 6th gen Civic.

 

Thanks a lot guys! This forum is awesome, I found the FAQ and there is tons of information which is crazy because i have searched million times here for that kind of information and never really found out that FAQ section. Anyway you gave me pretty much what i need. Here where i live D16 "small" vtec is kinda rare and more expensive than D15z6-8 and d14. Probably going to contact these guys you suggested and get the "hot" parts i think that's the best variant and buy the other parts here from local store. The question you didn't answer is about the D15z6-8 do you think is possible to keep the eco mode and still be economic when driven slow ? Thank you one more time you're the best!

 

I’m not familiar with that engine because I don’t think it’s a US model/trim engine. My opinion is that you’re better off with the 1.6liter VTEC D series engine even though they are a little more rare than the base model. The kilometers per liter(gas mileage) you want won’t be that much different when comparing a 1.6 liter or 1.5 liter. It will have slightly different gas consumption but nothing significant. The 1.6 liter will produce a little more power also.
I also suggest not getting the VTEC-E engine because once you decide how to tune the engine, I don’t know of any aftermarket tuning solution that is compatible with the VTEC-E. It might be a feature you lose once you try to tune with an aftermarket computer. For example, if you chose to convert your 6th generation Civic to an OBD-1 computer and use Hondata, I don’t think it is compatible with VTEC-E. If you stay OBD2, one tuning option you have is AEM EMS which works with the 99-00 Civic, but is expensive-about $1,500.
Really for 200HP you could probably just use the Vortec Fuel Management Unit FMU fuel pressure riser and not do any changes to the computer, but it’s the most crude way of adding fuel. I used one reliably for 2 years, but they aren’t really that good for long term use, or for tuning accuracy, because all they do is increase the fuel pressure. Although if your set on staying with the VTEC-E, you could probably use the Vortec FMU and keep your stock computer, and use a Walbro 255l/hr high pressure fuel pump, and a “missing link” Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor device so that your stock computer doesn’t read the boost pressure. If your serious about this car and tuning, then the Vortec FMU is the least desirable option, although it can work, is least expensive, simple, OK for 200HP, and was used by lots of people about 10-20 years ago.
So when you're considering the 1.6VTEC or 1.5 VTEC-E you need to look into what tuning solution you’re going to use.
The three options I can think of are (but not limited to):
1)Vortec FMU
2)OBD1 jumper engine harness with Hondata
3)AEM EMS
Do some searches on the three tuning options listed and that should help you narrow down your choices.
If you have more questions let us know.

 

For the tuning part it will be custom remap i will contact tuner and will discuss the best thing to do about the computer. I will buy everything from here because its really expensive buying from U.S. I think of turbo

• flange: T3/T4
• floating bearings
• internal wastegate
• compressor wheel: 58/76.2mm
• turbine wheel: 65.15/48mm
• downpine flange: V-band 3"
• compressor inlet: 76mm
• compressor outler: 52mm

ANd this manifold what do you think will it work?

 

What brand of turbo? Try to stay with a Garrett, Precision, or Turbonetics turbochargers because they are good quality.
I don’t like internal wastegate turbochargers but it may work and not have boost creep if you’re lucky. Also, if you are keeping the air conditioner, all of the exhaust down pipes I know have to use a 2.5” pipe that increases in size to 3” (or stays 2.5” all the way back-which is plenty large enough for 200HP) after the AC compressor for spacing issues. I don’t know of any strait 3” downpipes that work with AC, and it says your exhaust flange is 3”V-band so you might be able to fit an adapter but I’m not sure if there is enough space near the AC compressor.
That’s why I recommended a kit, because you can get one that’s AC compatible and not have any issues. I think it’s worth the $2,300 because although it may seem expensive, they are made of high quality components and are direct bolt on. If you piece together components it will still probably add up to over $1,000. Turbocharging a non-turbo car is not a simple inexpensive task, it takes thousands of dollars to be done correctly.

 

Okay i will do my search about downpipes and stay with Garrett. The thing about money is if you re getting monthly wage in US for example 1500 dollars here you get 1500 BGN (Bulgarian leva) but the problem is 1$ is 1.6 BGN so that makes it a lot expensive i hope you understand. There aren't any kits here in my country only maybe used if someone decides to sell his turbo. I prefer to build my own, but anyway you guys helped me a lot I appreciate it !

 

I understand. It’s also good to piece together a turbo kit because you can get exactly what you need.
For your set up, I suggest:
cast exhaust manifold
GO-AUTOWORKS Honda/Acura Cast Iron Turbo Manifolds B16 B18 D15 D16
Tial 38mm wastegate
go auto works should be able to fabricate a wastegate dump tube and 2.5”mandrel bent downpipe, but I’m not sure if they build those.
For turbos “b” sized compressor are required for that manifold with a 5 bolt exhaust discharge, so I’d get that from ATP turbo or Go-Autoworks. I don’t see the T3/T04b listed right now on either website but I think they can both supply that.
Oil lines: piece together your own:
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=OIL
intercoolers:
GO-AUTOWORKS Intercooler GTC600 FMIC
or one that is eve smaller
intercooler piping:
Go auto works or make your own from ATP turbo
Blow off valve:
Tial 50mm or really which ever one should work for 200hp

 

I spent 2 days watching the turbo market here and it will be pretty easy and cheap to get turbo from volvo,bmw or even mitsubishi evo because they re everywhere and seem to be perfect for my job the turbos are gt2052v from volvo 2.5T, gt2260 from 3.0diesel BMW or td04/5 from Evo. I even found myself log style manifold for d series here so everything is going as planned. Even if these turbos are big for me i can get turbo from volvo 2.0T s60 which i think is smaller. I cant find here T3,t4 or even t3t4 turbos but anyway i think they re bigger than what i need

 

Just make sure the flange on the log manifold is able to bolt directly to those turbochargers you are seeking.
Also for exhaust down pipe and wastegate dump tube, it’s not that difficult to make your own if you aren’t able to source a pre-made one. I made a 3” downpipe and dump tube for my B18B turbo I did about 20 years ago. I just bought a flange and some stainless steel bends such as 180 degree bends. I had a friend of mine weld it. It took a few cuts to get it to fit, so we spent about one day working on it, and had a 3” downpipe fabricated. It’s time consuming but possible.