will this throw a CEL?

 

no, be sure to leave slack in the line.

 

why is this? i tap it slightly, and the throttle will open... is that too tight?

 

Can some one tell me how to do it plz?

i'd like to do it on my car too but no idea how.

thx

 

Without any slack you run the chance of it snapping. That might be too tight if you simply tap it and it opens.

 

Adjust the nuts on the throttle cable.

 

could you tell me in more detailed step by step please?
or any tips?


So i turn it which way? and how much should i turn them?

 

What car is that? GS-R with S2 intake manifold?

Anyway, adjust the two nuts ( i think 12mm) so that it pulls the cable away from the t-body so it reduces slack. Your car looks fine though.

 

sorry it's not my car. i stole this pic from other thread.

and yes you are right it's a Non ITR with S2 IM.

my car is 01 ITR btw

thx

 

you'd be better off finding a pic of a non-GSR TB to have someone illustrate. GSR throttle cables pull from the other direction and use a bracket mounted on the TB as opposed to the IM (on other b-series engines)

 

we got way OT here... but i tighten it for my friend, and the CEL came on, and she tried to blame it on me... upon further inspection, the sparkplugs are white, 2000 mi over recommended oil change, and nearly no oil on the dip stick... sheeh.. some girls man.... no love for the car...

 

THe nut that's closer to the throttle body is the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut is the one you move to adjust the throttle cable tension.

The nut that's farther from the throttle body is the locking nut. The locking nut secures everything down once you're finished.

To decrease the throttle cable deflection, move the adjusting nut closer to the throttle body. Then briefly check the deflection by pulling it back onto bracket. If the tension looks tight enough, but not too tight, then secure the locking nut.

Tips:
1.) Tight enough, but not too much is typically just under .25" before the threading ends. In my experience, that's where I've left it on 4 different Integra's (including 2 ITR's). But, don't solely take my word for it. Every individual scenario can vary.
2.) Remember "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey". Not trying to underestimate your intelligence, but it can and does happen. My brother stripped the lock nut trying to adjust his throttle cable tension.
3.) Oh, and keep in mind that tightening down the lock nut tightens up the tension a little bit more.
4.) On ITR's, removing the strut tower bar gives you more room to swing the 12mm box wrench. It's not necessary at all, but can make it easier if you're finding it extremely difficult to maneuver the wrench. But, don't make more work/trouble for yourself if you don't need to.


[Modified by IN VTEC, 6:48 PM 11/17/2002]

 

Thx alot man

 

Great how-to
I'm gonna save it for later.

 

Once you do it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about and never look at the how-to ever again.

 

hahaha, YUP

I was wonder why so many people are asking how to do it. It's not something to be scared about doing. If you can screw in a lightbulb you can do this. And if you can't screw in a lightbulb, well...... you need to be riding the mini yellow bus.

 

Here are updated pics of the TB cable adpater bracket on my GSR with a Skunk2 intake manifold. Notice there is slack in the cable.






[Modified by Dee, 12:27 AM 11/18/2002]

 

I was merely commenting on the clarity and detail of the instructions. I've done many cable adjustments from bike brakes to door latch cables.

 

I posted updated pics because first pic was taken when I ghetto rigged my setup.

 

here are some posts i saved from h-t back when i tightened mine. i just saved them in a txt file and somehow managed to chop off the names etc so it kind of runs together. also don't overtighten- remember to leave 10 mm deflection

<bunch of old posts>
------------------------------------
Its quite simple.
Just remember that you want about 10mm of deflection
if you cant judge 10mm by looking at it and must use a measurement device, push the cable all the way down... and that should be you zero mark.. then pull it al the way up and the difference between the lowest point and the highest should be 10mm

Not sure if I can clear it up, but I'll try... I'm going to assume you know where the throttle cable is and what it does. So there are two nuts on either side of the cable that hold it in position. Loosen the one that is on the left. Start the car, and let it fully warm up. The idle should be between 600 and 800 RPMs as indicated on the tach. Pull on the cable so that you can see how it affects the idle...then you'll want to take as much slack out of the cable as you can, WITHOUT changing the idle. Use the nut on the left as a sort of 'stop'. Just keep loosening it (while applying tension to the cable), and when you hear the idle change, back it up a hair until it goes back to normal. Then, you'll have to tighten up the nut on the right side to keep the tension there... That should be it

At the end of the throttle cable there is a threaded length of tubbing that is used to locate the cable relative to the throttle body. There are 2 nuts that hold the cable in place and are tightened against a support bracket. Look and you will see what I am talking about.

To remove the slack simply back off these nuts and adjust them until the slack is removed from the length of cable between this treaded tube and the throttle body.


Make sure that there is just a little slack, enough that there is a touch of deflection when you pull on it with your finger (GOD reported a need for 10mm of deflection with light pressure, I think I have maintained about 5mm without apparent negative effect), but the massive sag that you see from the factory definitely needs to be taken out.

2 nuts between a bar. loosen the 1 towards the throttle body. tighten the cable to where there is minimal slack in the line make the cable almost taught but so where it doesn;t more the throttle rotor. then retighten the nut back down. need 1 10mm wrench i believe. once u look at it and loosen the nut u will see how it operates its pretty simple. first mod i did

Deflection spec is 10-12mm. You can actually get it less than that, but anything too tight and your idle will be too high

</bunch of old posts>

 

Didn't mean to criticize or imply anything in any way....just commenting on your comment.

Altho, I do think that some there's a wave of debasing attitude progressing through H-T, so some people are being a little more defensive. It comes and goes.

I hope I'm not the only one feeling this....I got called an idiot recently for voicing my opinion and reasoning for my opinion. Came outta nowhere.

cheers