Removing vtc actuator
So I’m going to attempt the replacement of my vtc actuator on my 2012 civic si first time doing something like this so some tips would be very appreciated but I was curious when I’m loosening the vtc actuator can I use the Honda locking pins in the camshafts but also use breaker bar and wrench while trying to get that bolt loose so I don’t loose TDC
i plan on loosening the exhaust sprocket to get the actuator off
i plan on loosening the exhaust sprocket to get the actuator off
Unfortunately I don’t have an air impact gun , I do have a dewalt electric impact but I’m not sure if that will get the job done I was gonna do it with a breaker and a long pipe and obviously a wrench on the camshaft and , now I’m worried when I go to loosen the bolt I might move things around and the car won’t be tdc, can I rotate the cam shafts once I break the actuator bolt loose just to line everything back up to tdc cause im sure im gonna be fighting with this bolt
I plan on removing my actuator by taking the exhaust sprocket off so I don’t have to touch the internals also do you think it’s safe to use an impact while I’m holding the wrench on the camshaft and it’s still in the car
The cam gears are keyed to the camshafts. Get the bolts loose but not removed. Then turn everything back to TDC then proceed with removal of the bolts.
Heads up, the spring pressures on the cam lobes are very likely going to spin the cams anyway. They will sort of snap to a low pressure position. No big deal, swap your VTC and then retime everything. Not the end of the world if things move around just make sure it is all in time before you button it up.
Heads up, the spring pressures on the cam lobes are very likely going to spin the cams anyway. They will sort of snap to a low pressure position. No big deal, swap your VTC and then retime everything. Not the end of the world if things move around just make sure it is all in time before you button it up.
The cam gears are keyed to the camshafts. Get the bolts loose but not removed. Then turn everything back to TDC then proceed with removal of the bolts.
Heads up, the spring pressures on the cam lobes are very likely going to spin the cams anyway. They will sort of snap to a low pressure position. No big deal, swap your VTC and then retime everything. Not the end of the world if things move around just make sure it is all in time before you button it up.
Heads up, the spring pressures on the cam lobes are very likely going to spin the cams anyway. They will sort of snap to a low pressure position. No big deal, swap your VTC and then retime everything. Not the end of the world if things move around just make sure it is all in time before you button it up.
also can I throw a couple drill bits into the camshaft plates to hold everything once I have at tdc with the bolts loose , I’m sure it would help putting everything back
Last edited by killerzero; Dec 25, 2021 at 03:18 PM.
Just don't force the crank. If you feel resistance stop. It is possible to have the valves touch the pistons while everything is out of time. Forcing the crank will bend valves.
Trending Topics
alright sounds good now can I put locking pins in the camshaft plates holes to keep everything at tdc when the bolts are loose
hey man so I ended up trying to replace it today but it didn’t go so well when I pulled the valve cover off I instantly went to check the tdc of the motor so I grabbed my 19mm spun the motor over with the crank pulley I lined up both lines on the sprocket but when I looked at the arrow pointing at the crank pulley was off about 1cm , now my question is , is it okay to just put everything back together and wait to do the timing chain probably when it’s warmer out ?and I should be able to start the car back up because I never touched anything and the motor ran fine before I started this job? Also when I was turning the motor over I could here like what sounded like pressure was relieving and when I was turning the crank pulley over it would be easy to turn then a little firm I’m sure that’s okay ?
Should be fine to keep running it.
Did you turn the crank clockwise? Turning it counter clockwise can compress the cam chain tensioner and will show the timing to be off. No harm, it won't compress the tensioner far enough to be an issue. It will pump back up with oil pressure when running.
The pressure you heard and felt was compression. It will leak down past the rings and you will hear it. Completely normal.
Did you turn the crank clockwise? Turning it counter clockwise can compress the cam chain tensioner and will show the timing to be off. No harm, it won't compress the tensioner far enough to be an issue. It will pump back up with oil pressure when running.
The pressure you heard and felt was compression. It will leak down past the rings and you will hear it. Completely normal.
Should be fine to keep running it.
Did you turn the crank clockwise? Turning it counter clockwise can compress the cam chain tensioner and will show the timing to be off. No harm, it won't compress the tensioner far enough to be an issue. It will pump back up with oil pressure when running.
The pressure you heard and felt was compression. It will leak down past the rings and you will hear it. Completely normal.
Did you turn the crank clockwise? Turning it counter clockwise can compress the cam chain tensioner and will show the timing to be off. No harm, it won't compress the tensioner far enough to be an issue. It will pump back up with oil pressure when running.
The pressure you heard and felt was compression. It will leak down past the rings and you will hear it. Completely normal.
I was thinking about that I mean the cars got 160km never winter driven the pulley didn’t look beautiful but i guess it could have moved I mean I was rotating everything slowly , say tho the rubber did move that’s not gonna affect the timing of the engine I’m pretty sure right ? The white dot on the pulley is ahead of the arrow if that helps any , just a bit nervous going to start the car I don’t think I could have messed up the timing pulling a valve cover off and turning the crankpulley I didn’t remove any guides nothing just simply rotate the engine over twice and Noticed my tdc on the crank pulley wasn’t lining up , if my car did jump a tooth before the job it wasn’t running like **** before and no engine codes
My cars got a 3 inch down pipe and 3inch cat back exhaust with a 3 1/2 inch intake tubing untuned so the car is running a little rich would that throw timing off a bit?
Not the mechanical timing, no.
Turning the crank by hand won't make the damper ring slip. That happens when the engine is running and the rubber is deteriorated.
Any check engine lights? Perhaps a stretched timing chain. But that usually sets a code for cam and crank correlation.
Turning the crank by hand won't make the damper ring slip. That happens when the engine is running and the rubber is deteriorated.
Any check engine lights? Perhaps a stretched timing chain. But that usually sets a code for cam and crank correlation.
The only codes my car gets is p1072 which is from my cai the car just needs a tune and p0420 for exhaust catalytic cause I don’t have one , **** I was almost thinking that I could of still done the job just put a mark where ever the crank tdc lands on the engine and use that as my tdc but I guess that’s just risky , now I’m wondering if I even need a timing chain if it’s just the rubber on the crank pulley that moved . When I pulled the valve cover off I didn’t notice any slack in the chain or anything
Might be able to feel TDC with a long screwdriver or rod down the spark plug hole. If the piston feels like it is heading back down the hole before the cams line up you have your answer.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pimpincivic17s
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
10
Aug 28, 2007 07:05 AM




