I bought an open diff off eBay which said good condition. Assuming it is, what would cause whirring noise that match speed, not rpm? Like the straight gear noise in reverse mostly.

I'm not a mechanic but really want a CRX so please none of that "don't do it if you don't know how" it is my car now I'll break it if I wanna!

I won't open it back up for a few weeks so wanted some input. I've read about fluid - that's new and full, and worn ring gears.

Or perhaps **** didn't line up? No crunching or binding sounds. I spun the bearings on the replacement differential around with my hands with I got it and didn't notice anything.

Could it be the main shaft isn't seated correctly and doesn't align final drive with diff - would that mean I've likely worn and wasted the diff already and need a new FD?

Could it be anything outside of that? Axles?

Hard to get location of the sound since it has to be moving and my 1 kid that can drive stick is out of town.

Thanks for your input

 

Did you swap your old ring gear over to the new (to you) diff, or did the diff come with a ring gear and you just used that? It's typically a bad idea to mix/match ring and pinion gears.

Did you check the clearance / shim thickness when installing the new diff? I've heard of people getting away without doing this, but this is something you should do.

Speed dependent noise does confirm it's likely on the diff/countershaft side of things. I would not drive it much (any?) until you can pull it and open it back up.

 

Came with everything attached so I just threw it on there. Definitely makes sense the two would wear together, I should put the old ring on.

I dove in without much research I guess. Especially with the transmission...

Thanks. I'll probably read a service book about it while waiting for the alignment shop to fix my traction bar they snapped...

 

Yes, and measure the thrust clearance of the differential when mounted inside the case... with the shafts removed and the case torqued down to spec.

 

It might've worked ok "just thrown together" if I didn't overlook the difference. The eBay listing said 90-91 Integra LS which from my reading is what I have. But it's 64T and mine is 66T. Haven't opened it back up yet, just zooming in on the pics and counting.
I really messed that up.
Read a lot - buying gear marking compound, shims, and feeler gauges.
Thanks for setting me on right path.

 

Ouch. I wouldn't drive it ANY further. You may have already damaged the countershaft and ring gear in your transmission. Looks like you won't be able to swap your ring gear over onto that diff since it has a different inner diameter: https://honda-tech.com/forums/transm.../#post42066799

 

Difference of knowledge and wisdom
Wisdom is ******* up and paying the price huh
This point might be more worth getting a full tranny sheesh
Diameter deal sucks. I don't think I want that final ratio though so I'm not only back to square one, I may need a countershaft.

 

Open it up first and have a look before you get too upset.

 

Did some more reading - Probably can't dig in to the transmission until after holidays

The first is what I bought from eBay (64T from B18B) but the ITR is B18C and it's the larger diameter. My tranny is the 90-91 Integra LS B18A with 66T so hopefully just a ring gear swap, if it's not smashed to pieces.

 

The bore in the ring gear is to keep the gear concentric to the differential. Sort of how wheels are hub centric.

Bolt pattern might also be different? Transmission expert could chime in on that.

 

Attempt to compare. Although the 7mm difference would likely be hard to see with different angles. I have 66T and 1 ID mark. Getting confused here heh

 

It's 66T, 1 ID marker (but not in the middle), but small hole. So I guess there's a chance I don't need more parts as long as the countershaft didn't explode.