I wanted to upgrade my ARP HEAD STUDS
to L19 11x1.5 just wondering if I should get the speedfactory head studs for the b and k series or go with the L19 SRT-4 HEAD STUDS

 

Why the jump in size and material strength? Why not just try the standard material 11mm ARP studs before jumping to L19?

I think the SRT-4 studs may be too long in a D16Y8:

ARP D16Y8 studs (p/n 208-4305) = 120.5mm long
ARP D16Z6 studs (p/n 208-4301) = 140mm long
ARP SRT-4 studs (p/n 141-4204) = 160mm long

Not sure of the threaded length on the SRT-4 studs - maybe you can cut them down? I personally wouldn't want to do that, though, especially on an L19 stud. Maybe call up ARP and see if they offer a shorter stud in M11x1.5?

 

I was jumping to the higher grade because I didn’t want to hv to buy the regular studs… to the L19 in case I had head lift problems again I started having head lift at 17 Psi and wanted to b at 25 Psi on vitara setup .5 over compression at 8.5.1 sleeved with stock head and cam it made 317 hp 308 torque not bad but wanted to b at 400 plus at least running E85 on Neptune demon 2 750 RC T3 Turbonetics 52/57

 

How much timing are you running at 17 psi? I bet that is your problem. I've got a similar set up (see here) and am making 401/327. I blew 2 HG's a year apart due to head lift using 10mm studs and went to standard material 11mm studs, JE Pro Seal gasket, and reduced timing and it's been great for over a year. I don't think your 750's will be enough...I'm out of fuel with 1000's, and I think my turbo/manifold combo is out of steam also at around 26 psi.

I'd call ARP and see if they have a shorter stud than 141-4204 that may work for your setup (120 - 140mm).

Also - just curious where are you seeing L19 studs for the SRT-4?

 

this is the article I seen so I figure that was my answer but still just getting input to do the right fix I’ll send u my map on Hondata but I think this Tunner is not the best here in the Salt Lake Utah area my Tunner in California does street tunes and never had a issue but the elevation here is higher and my car was leaning out and boosting less so I had it tuned but after a month had nothing but problems lol


https://www.d-series.org/threads/d15-16-m10x1-25-to-m11x1-5-big-stud-conversion-information.313831/

 

Yeah I don't see any mention of L19 studs in the SRT-4 size - I was just curious, because I haven't seen them.

 

Made 350HP, 18psi (Mustang Dyno) ...........using ARP D16y8 head studs.

You DON'T NEED L-19's

 

What exactly are L-19 head studs, are they the stock Dodge (neon) SRT-4 (PT cruiser SRT-4) head studs?
So if they are the stock SRT-4 head studs then are they too long/tall to fit in a D series block/head and need to be cut down to size?
Are the L19 head studs supposed to be stronger material than ARP head studs?
I assume they don’t fit in a stock D16 and the block needs to be drilled out larger slightly and then tapped to fit in the L19 head studs- but what about the cylinder head-is there enough space to fit the bolt on top, or does the cylinder head have to be modified?
So in order of strength, a person would first want stock sized ARP head studs, then the larger 11mm ARP head stud, then the L19 studs are rated as stronger than the 11mm ARP head studs?

 

Ok I see that L19 is made by ARP and is an upgraded/extreme version of their regular head studs. I see L19 available for B and K series but not on the D series.
Does anyone have a link to L19 head studs for the D series or is modification needed for the D series with L19 head studs?

 

I'm not aware of any L19 studs sized for D-series (10mm). I think you'll have to upgrade to 11mm studs to be able to run L19. There is also 625+ material which is stronger than L19 and not as sensitive to handling. I believe you can find SRT4 studs in that material.

 

Ok I see what you mean about no L19 studs being available for the D series (10mm).
For the SRT-4 are the 625+ material special order from ARP? I only see one stud kit being available for the SRT-4:


If the SRT4 studs are 160mm and the D16Z6 is 140mm, then do the SRT4 studs have to be cut down to size for them to fit in the D16Z6 valve cover or is there space available for the 160mm long studs? For the SRT4 studs to work, do they need to have threading added below where the threads are already, so that the bolts can go down all the way, or is there enough threading low enough on the SRT4 studs already?
If L19s are used on a D series, then is it good to go with a B series L19 ?
Obviously for an 11mm stud in the D series then the block would have to be drilled out and tapped for the M11x1.5 threading. This is something a machine shop or a place like Golden Eagle could do, right? But I couldn’t do it myself because it has to be perfectly strait up and down and I couldn’t just do this with a drill myself, right? I assume both L19 or SRT4 are the same M11x1.5 threading.
And for the D16 cylinder head- is there enough space to bolt on the 11mm studs whether they are L19 or SRT4 (standard material or 625+)?
Thanks for the info- I’m trying to see which route to go on my D series build.

 

The 625+ SRT4 studs I saw were a different brand - not sure what brand at the moment.

Go dig through my thread (July 2020 timeframe) for my 11mm stud installation. It should answer nearly all the questions you just asked. You don't have to cut the studs or drill the holes in the block deeper. A machine shop should be able to install Time-Serts for you, or you can buy the kit for $500 and do it yourself (that's what i did).

 

Thanks for the info. I did a quick search and found some 625 SRT4 head studs for $500
https://www.shoprealtuned.com/produc...625-head-studs
I’ll try to find the section of your build thread tomorrow. I’ve read the first few pages and the last few pages but maybe I’ll read through it all tomorrow.
Good thing the studs don’t have to be cut down.