While checking clearances on my mains using the ACL Race bearings, they seemed to be way too loose. More than 0.002in.
Referring to this from the Helm's, I'm clearly past even the service limit.
And mind you, every single bearing was about exactly the same, +0.002in, only one of them was a solid 0.0015in.


Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I tried two times. The crank and bearings are clean, and un-lubed. I tried once with dry bolts, and once with the bolts dipped in engine oil, as is said to be done when doing a proper install.


I am using plastigauge from orielly's, if it matters. I do know these bearings are harder than oem bearings, though I am unaware if that means the clearances can be looser or not. Although this H22 will be turboed (yes it's properly sleeved and has forged internals), I am going to be running it NA for probably a good 6-8 months first. If it was turbo out the gate, I wouldn't be as concerned over such a clearance.

So do y'all think this is perfectly safe? Or will I have to try something else.

 

I apologise for how outrageously large the second image is, I couldn't figure out how to make it smaller.

 

What is the part number on the bearings you have? ACL offers two sets of standard race bearings. One set that is truly standard and another that has .001 extra clearance built in. From your clearances it would seem you have the extra clearance version.

Either way, being at .002" is not a big deal. Especially for an engine that will be turbocharged. Just run some flavor of decent 10w40 or similar.

 

Both 5M1957H-STD Mains and 4B1912H-STD Rods. And yeah that was indeed my plan if I didn't end up changing them out; running 10w40 that is.
Indeed seems weird I have that much clearance, but the block and crank are also not from the same engine. I did make sure I got the Standard Sized bearings.
The boxes were proper ACL boxes, taped shut with the labelled+barcoded+stamped white tab. Bearings were vacuum wrapped and all.
I didn't think it would be detrimental to run them, but definitely wanted some other opinions on it, so I appreciate your response.

 

They will have the actual part number stamped on the back of the bearing shells. It may be possible you got some that were boxed wrong. Worth checking anyway.

You should be fine with those clearances though. If you the delete the balance shafts you will have an abundance of oil pressure. I wouldn't give it a second thought in a turbo engine that was going to get beat on a lot.

 

That's a very good point, I didn't know they were all stamped as well. I did go ahead and check after you mentioned it, and they are indeed all STD parts.
I've been heavily considering deleting the balance shafts as well, but I've seen soooo much controversy on it haha. I know I won't care about any sort of extra vibrations it may cause in the cabin, as I'll have 85A solid poly mounts all around anyway.

I'd just be worried about the actual engine in doing so, also considered trying to get away with not having to buy a proper expensive kit to delete them, like installing the shafts but removing the belts. I've read if you don't put them in right it can block certain oil passages though, or something similar. The reason being is I would like it to run by Import Alliance this year lol, which is in less than just two weeks. Although I may eat my own words and have something terrible happen to it because I didn't follow my own rule that's in my sig haha.

 

They're worth deleting in any H/F series. The only reason they exist is for NVH. They do nothing for harmonics. In a built engine they won't even do anything for NVH because you've changed the weight of the parts.

I always recommend deleting them as there's really no benefit in keeping them. They superheat your oil because they spin at 2x engine speed, add unnecessary reciprocating mass which doesn't let the engine rev as freely, and rob oil pressure. You gain lower oil temps, more oil pressure and a snappier engine by getting rid of them. The kits are only about $100 I believe. KSTuned made them originally and they're the most expensive. I have used the 1320 kit which is a little cheaper. They both work the same. If you really want to go cheap there are DIYs out there that will show you how to do it for as little as $25. KSTuned has an instructional video on YouTube that shows you how to install the kits. It's a very simple process.

Alternatively, you can just remove the belt and leave the shafts in place but you won't gain any oil pressure this way.

 

Good info, thank you. You've made up my mind then haha, I'll just go ahead and get the KSTuned ones, I like to do things right when I do it. Also turns out Eagle shipped me 240sx SR20 rods instead of my H22 rods, so now I have to try to sell them and buy the proper ones . Sadly now it surely won't be running for this year's Import Alliance.