So I'm in the process of getting my parents 1997 CR-V running again. It all started with a Fuse 15 popping and a check engine light. I kept replacing the fuse to no avail, and the car would then lose power while driving and not start up again due to the battery being dead. The battery was old so we replaced that, but the problem persisted. Troubleshooting using the Honda service manual, everything pointed at the alternator being bad since it had low voltage output and wasn't charging properly... so i replaced the Alternator (what a pain in the *** that was). And again.... the problem persisted. Output voltage on the alternator was well below where it should have been.

Finally i did what i should have done from the start and connect my laptop to the OBDII port using my Ross-Tech VAG-COM in OBDII (I've got an Audi) and got the following codes:

P0501: Speed Sensor (probably due to blown fuse 15)
P1298: Electronic Load Detector Circuit High Voltage
P0135: O2 Sensor
P0141: O2 Sensor

So if memory serves, the Electronic Load Detector is basically a volt/current meter which monitors current draw and adjusts alternator output accordingly. If this part was malfunctioning i'm fairly sure the symptoms that would result are exactly what i'm seeing now with the brand new alternator having very low voltage and current output, not enough to keep the car running. I used a clamp meter and if i recall correctly it was only putting out 8 amps and under 12v, when it should have been running 14v+ and at least 80 amps on a battery that was at half capacity. If the load detector is what the ECU uses to control alternator output, it would explain why output is so low.

So my thoughts are that this load detector is the culprit of all these problems and should be replaced. I'm not a honda guy, so I thought i'd get some input from everyone here who knows a lot more about these cars than me. My car knowledge is mostly Audi/VW. Your input is greatly appreciated.

oh... and when replacing the alternator i noticed the three accessory belts were cracked all to hell and the lower front left engine mount was busted. So i just got replacements for those and will be installing today.

 

3 belts cracked? One of them being ALT?

 

They were old and had small cracks in them. They weren't slipping though.

Update...

I'm glad i kept reading because apparently its more than likely a frayed wiring harness shorting out on a bracket behind the intake manifold. I talked with Honda and they said it's not uncommon for these old CR-V's for this to happen. There is even a TSB regarding this problem. Hopefully this is the cause since Honda informed me that the inexpensive ELD replacement part isn't for this model CRV and that i'd have to get an entirely new fuse box assembly costing hundreds of dollars if i could even find one since they're not available. So I ordered some TESA 51026 high temp wiring tape which arrives tomorrow and ill re-insulate the harness that is hopefully the problem.

Here is exactly the same error codes caused by the harness and how the damaged harness is causing the ELD error.
http://catjuggling.com/1996-honda-ci...here-is-a-fix/
And this same harness being shorted causes alternator to deliver power, which was why the vehicle was crapping out while driving. https://sparkys-answers.com/2009/04/...use-blown.html

And more people with the harness shorting out here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...owing-2106909/