(I tried starting in the FAQs, found the links in the clutch section to be hopelessly mixed up.)

Suddenly my '92 Civic's clutch pedal engages the clutch a lot closer to the floorboard, and I have a lot more pedal free play. My hunch is a clutch cable about to part (fail) but since it's a hydraulic clutch, I suppose it could be something in the hydraulic system.

I find a small fluid reservoir outboard of the brake reservoir. ("Use only DOT3 brake fluid." on the cap.) It seems to supply a small clutch master cylinder below it on the firewall. This cylinder connects (via a long run of lines) to what seems to be the clutch slave cylinder on the side of the clutch housing.

The reservoir looks empty, but I find no signs of fluid leaks anywhere. I suppose it could be leaking inside the slave cylinder.

My first item is to add DOT3 fluid to the reservoir and see if my pedal action returns to normal. But I see no "FULL" indication mark on the reservoir, and the cap has no dipstick.

How do I know when to stop adding fluid?

Do I need to bleed the system if the fluid has dropped past a certain point?

Brian

 

Just fill the reservoir to the top.

If you crack open the bleed screw on the slave then you will have to bleed it again.

First try adjusting the clutch master, All you need is a wrench and crawl under the dash to the clutch pedal and adjust the nut on the master cylinder. Turn it a few times and then go for a drive and keep adjusting it till you like the engagement point.

If the clutch feels sloppy and sinks to the floor etc.. you need to check the hydraulic clutch line for air/ bleed the system.

 

Thanks for the quick reply all makes sense. Just odd it came on suddenly, which makes me suspect a failing cable. yet empty reservoir obviously ain't right.

(PS I love your signature quote, one for the books.)

Brian

 

Update: Filled the reservoir, cycled the clutch a few times, drove the car, all good!

Next: Bleed system to flush out old fluid.

Thanks again!

Brian

 

Cool Beans!

 

The system doesnt typically lose fluid. Either the slave is going bad or the master is going bad.

filling and bleeding is only a temporary solution. You will be continually topping up fluid until the part completely fails.

I suspect the slave is allowing fluid past the push pin.

 

Climb up under the dash on the driver's side and look where the clutch pedal attaches to the slave cylinder. Is the carpet directly underneath that wet or stained dark? If so, the master cylinder is leaking into the cabin of the car, and should be replaced. It's either going to be a bad master cylinder or a bad slave cylinder, more than likely.

 

Thanks, guys. That all makes sense. I mentioned from the jump I wondered where the fluid was going, but I haven't closely inspected either end of the plumbing. I just finished completely rebuilding the brake system on my old Porsche, so I do understand where the hygroscopic attrition attacks. "Miles to go before I sleep ... ".

 

Reviewing in my factory workshop manual the slave and master cylinder R&R procedures, looks simple enough.

(Oddly, my Chilton manual says I must first disconnect the negative battery cable and "disable the SRS system". Huh? Say it ain't so!)

Looking for a recommendation on a brand for either clutch cylinder. I've recently used Rock Auto for an NTK O2 sensor and was satisfied.

 

I have used Beck Arnley on my two Hondas and they've done fine. The FSM is overly cautious to have you not short out any systems or deploy the SRS - remember that it was originally written for the mechanics at the Honda service department to use. You're probably OK to leave the battery/SRS connected.

 

Actually the FSM says nothing about SRS in this context, it's only my Chilton manual. In any event, it's hard to fathom SRS being sensitive to that clutch fluid connection. There's no electronic connections involved.

 

Update: I find slight seepage at the MC, but not enough to account for loss of a couple ounces of fluid. The slave cylinder looks dry. Nevertheless I'm order both slave and master cylinders, as they're cheap, and it makes sense to replace both.

BTW, I mentioned "clutch cable" in my OP but obviously my car hasn't one. I was put off the scent by this diagram featured in the front of the clutch section in my Chilton manual:



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Use the Chilton to start a fire and get a Helm manual.

 

I've got 1200+ pages of Honda service manual. Does Helm expand on that?
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When you say slave looks dry, did you pull it off the transmission so you can pull the push pin boot off the cylinder? The boot can hold the fluid in so it looks dry but is not as it is in the boot itself if it's leaking.

 

Your 1200+ pages is probably the Helm manual. It's the Factory Service Manual and is sold by Helminc.com under license from Honda up to 2011. In 2012 Honda went to an online subscription style service and you can no longer purchase your FSM from helminc.com

 

Agree with Tomcat - your service manual is probably the Helm. All other manuals pale in comparison when it comes to these cars.

 

Good to know. I downloaded my PDF file from this (or some other) forum site over ten years ago.

However, it's quicker to flip open a book for many things rather than open and try to locate the pages in the big kahuna. It has no proper master index, you have to first scroll down to the right section like "Transaxle" to find its section index. And an Acrobat text search doesn't work, it tells me "slave" was not found in the document, for example.
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No, I haven't removed anything yet. But, since I see seepage at the MC, I preemptively ordered both a MC and slave cylinder. For only $12 it doesn't make sense not to buy the SC, leaking or not. Since the same old hygroscopic fluid has been in both cylinders for decades, it only makes sense to replace them as a set, especially given how accessible the SC is. Seems to me, anyway.
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You can go to helminc.com and usually buy the hard copy version of the manual you downloaded for a reasonable price. Unlike ebay, helminc doesn't rip you off. They don't always have stock but they get stock fairly regularly.

 

Postscript: I completed the replacement of master and slave cylinders with no problems. The clutch now activates as I imagine it did when brand new. Thanks to all for the advice.