Recently purchased a 2000 CRV (B20Z2) - 100% stock. Automatic transmission. 231,XXX on the clock.
I noticed while idling at stop light that the temp gauge was starting to rise, it would go back down once driving again so I made sure to not let it get too hot , drove it home , and ended up changing out the thermostat and radiator cap and the temp has been reading properly since.

It's started smoking at idle, or more accurately when accelerating after idling. I've attached some video.
https://imgur.com/a/i3gZD7h

White smoke - Coolant / water
Black smoke - Fuel
Blue smoke - Oil

I've monitored the fluid levels and I'm not seeing any significant changes on (oil/coolant).
I got an oil change around ~650 miles ago and attached photo of what oil looks like.

Checked the PCV valve and was able to hear the raddle when shaking it.
Does have a check engine light on for code p0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

trying to figure out what should be my next step
-Thinking new valve stem seals and a valve adjustment ?
-I don't have the tool for a leakdown or compression test , and hoping it is not a blown head gasket

Quotes for Valve Adjustment:
Honda Dealership - $242
Local Shops - $271, $200, $219, $300, $650, $329 , $200

I've searched through a few threads below:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...-idle-3085232/
https://www.crvownersclub.com/thread...stment.194171/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tment-2795822/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...-valve-590976/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...haust-2815512/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-m...ng-bit-118136/

 

Valve adjustment diy or find someone to help you local. This won’t solve oil consumption however. Stem seals might help a little but generally it’s blowby via oil control rings that are worn/stuck that causes this. There is a small chance a good synthetic might help free up the rings so that’s something to try before tearing down. It’s an old Honda it’s supposed to burn :p

What is your consumption quart per 1000 miles?

 

At that mileage, valve guides are shot. B series engines eat valve guides.

Could also be the cylinders are worn right out. Just depends on how it was maintained. You will have the head off to do valve guides, good time to inspect the cylinders for wear and roundness.

 

-Thinking of ordering the 12MM Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool and some feeler gauges and following along with a diy video
-I haven't had the CRV for 1000 miles yet, got an oil change when I got it and only put 650 miles on it since. Haven't noticed any significant oil consumption within that range.

-I do have a decent stack of service records of the previous owner having it maintained. I'm really hoping to not have to pull the head on this vehicle since I've only had it a month. Trying to gauge the severity of how soon I need to fix this; if I'm doing additional damage or if this is something that I can still drive the CRV for a bit before servicing it.

 

Seeing as you already have the P0420 for the cat being junk you may as well just let it burn oil. Just don't replace that cat until you fix the oil burning issue. Those unburned hydrocarbons will melt a new cat really quick.

At some point the oil burning will cause carbon build up on the exhaust valves and you will burn an exhaust valve. Then there will be no choice but to remove the head.

 

Monitor consumption and see how bad it is. From the video it looks fairly significant. Personally for me if it runs fine and you don’t mind watching the oil/topping it up, just drive it. Valve stems can be done without removing the head. Some have had mediocre success with engine treatments that can loosen up some of that crud

 

I am a firm believer from experience on Marvel Mystery oil and the Lucas oil additives. Not afraid of engine work but it requires special tools and a lot of fiat currency or credit...

 

If you want something stronger pick up some Kano Kreen it is more aggressive than Marvel

 

whtie smoke at idle and just after pulling away from idle, exactly what i had when my Idle air contrl valve gasket had gone hard and failed!
This gasket is repsonsible 2 things, the IAC valve, but also the seal between the housing, for letting coolant into the throttle body walls to assist with warm up, and if it fails like mine did, ityou end up with a coolant channel exposed to the sucton side of the throttle plate, and therfore, high suction (low manifold pressure at idle) causes it to suck hard and pull coolant into the intake.
Another stupid design!

U need to remove the throttel body, have a new gasket ready, and inspect that. Be damn careful with the water tubes, mine fell apart in my hands and i had to completely bypass it,

 

I've drove the CRV over 1k miles since the oil change now and the oil and coolant levels both seem fine (not noticing any significant consumption). Not sure which one is causing the smoke but it is still happening just after pulling away from idle. Other then that its still running and driving fine, I tried out some Marvel Mystery but haven't noticed a major difference yet.

 

@REBUILDER86 Why do you need to remove the throttle body. Looks like the IAC valve is held on with 2 bolts, and it is only that gasket one needs to replace right?
Could it leak coolant from the gasket of the throttle body as well?

..... I decided to bypass the coolant hoses temporarily taking them off the IAC and see if my white smoke goes away. That way I will know it is the IAC gasket.