Over Heating driving Uphill or Slopes
Good Day fom Kingston, Jamaica. I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX 2.2 L Engine (F22B) and I just Bought it with Overheating Issues.
I Changed the Radiator and All Hoses, I Shimed the Head and Block, I Changed the Gasket and Temperature Sensors. I Removed the Thermostat. I Changed the Two Fans. Yet I am Still having OVER HEATING as I Drive in the Slightest Uphill Sloped Road or Hills.I plan to Remove the Head again Tomorrow and have it PRESSURE Tested but I am in Trouble. I have Ran Out of Money and I still need a Transmission Kickback Cable with Bracket and Spring Attached But I Cannot Find it in Jamaica. Van Anyone Advise me What Else to Do to FIX This Overheating Problem ? Oh, It Immediately Overheats if I Turn ON the A/C.
Chasis Number is
I Changed the Radiator and All Hoses, I Shimed the Head and Block, I Changed the Gasket and Temperature Sensors. I Removed the Thermostat. I Changed the Two Fans. Yet I am Still having OVER HEATING as I Drive in the Slightest Uphill Sloped Road or Hills.I plan to Remove the Head again Tomorrow and have it PRESSURE Tested but I am in Trouble. I have Ran Out of Money and I still need a Transmission Kickback Cable with Bracket and Spring Attached But I Cannot Find it in Jamaica. Van Anyone Advise me What Else to Do to FIX This Overheating Problem ? Oh, It Immediately Overheats if I Turn ON the A/C.
Chasis Number is
Honda-Tech Member




Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
Greetings bredda. I been Raetown quite a few times over the years when I visit Jamaica, good good place dat.
Anyway, I had some overheating issues a few years ago with my F20B2 which is very similar to your F22B (same head and block etc). My first thought about the overheating is the water pump, I see you didn't mention that yet. Those cheap cheap online, like $20US for a decent brand water pump, plus a little bit more to bring it in through shipme or one of those courier places.
You definitely want a new radiator cap if you didn't change that.
You said you changed the fans, are you sure they are turning on? If I remember, one fan runs constantly, and the other turns on and off based on temperature sensor. Can always wire both to run 100% of the time if you have a thermostat and a properly working AC compressor.
Re the head gasket, you said you shimmed the head, you mean you had to shave the head as part of the rebuild? Did you use the right thickness head gasket for a shimmed head when you changed it? Once you shave it, you supposed to use a thicker HG to compensate.
Before you pull the head (and ruin a head gasket), start by compression testing the engine with everything in place and see if any results are off. If you can find someone to do a leakdown test, even better, but not too many mechanics can do that one.
Even when you solve it, long term you want to put a thermostat back in there, the engine gets sludged up a lot without it, since it runs too cool for too long, which leads to more wear and more sludge.
Anyway, I had some overheating issues a few years ago with my F20B2 which is very similar to your F22B (same head and block etc). My first thought about the overheating is the water pump, I see you didn't mention that yet. Those cheap cheap online, like $20US for a decent brand water pump, plus a little bit more to bring it in through shipme or one of those courier places.
You definitely want a new radiator cap if you didn't change that.
You said you changed the fans, are you sure they are turning on? If I remember, one fan runs constantly, and the other turns on and off based on temperature sensor. Can always wire both to run 100% of the time if you have a thermostat and a properly working AC compressor.
Re the head gasket, you said you shimmed the head, you mean you had to shave the head as part of the rebuild? Did you use the right thickness head gasket for a shimmed head when you changed it? Once you shave it, you supposed to use a thicker HG to compensate.
Before you pull the head (and ruin a head gasket), start by compression testing the engine with everything in place and see if any results are off. If you can find someone to do a leakdown test, even better, but not too many mechanics can do that one.
Even when you solve it, long term you want to put a thermostat back in there, the engine gets sludged up a lot without it, since it runs too cool for too long, which leads to more wear and more sludge.
Blessings my Breddah. Thanks for your Suggestions. My Mechanic just Advised me Today that the Overheating is being Caused by Damaged Threading Done by the Previous Mechanic in tTwo (2) of the Bolt Holes in he Engine Block. He States that the Engine CANNOT be REPAIRED and that I just have to BUY a REBUILT ENGINE. Which I Cannot Afford Right Now.. Let me Ask You Again,
1) Is there Anyway the Holes could be Re-Threaded ?
2) Is there Any Strong Sealants that could give me a 6-12 Months RELIEF from the OVERHEATING ?
3) Would you Agree with His Assessments ?
4) I am a Senior Citizen with Very Little Income and Really Cannot Afford even a Second Hand Engine Plus Labor Right Now.
I Would Welcome Your Suggestions. Thanks Mi Bretheren.... Oh, My Whats-App # 1-876-877-0271. Blessings from Yard....
1) Is there Anyway the Holes could be Re-Threaded ?
2) Is there Any Strong Sealants that could give me a 6-12 Months RELIEF from the OVERHEATING ?
3) Would you Agree with His Assessments ?
4) I am a Senior Citizen with Very Little Income and Really Cannot Afford even a Second Hand Engine Plus Labor Right Now.
I Would Welcome Your Suggestions. Thanks Mi Bretheren.... Oh, My Whats-App # 1-876-877-0271. Blessings from Yard....
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