Radiator fan being weird
I have a 98 civic ex, the relay is brand new, the relay plug in has continuity to battery, fusebox, ground, and radiator fan, the radiator fan is good, but it doesn't turn on even with jumping the switch, any ideas on what else I need to test?
Have you checked both under-hood Fuse No. 57 (20A) and under-dash Fuse No. 17 (7.5A)?
There should be power at Fuse No. 57 at all times. Fuse No. 17 should have power with the ignition switch in the ON position.
When you jumped the fan switch harness connector (located the thermostat housing), did you turn the ignition to the ON position (car not running)?
You can also pull the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box and test for power at the fuse box cavity terminals. Out of the four terminals, one terminal is for power (coming from Fuse No. 17) and should be hot with the ignition switch in the ON position. Another terminal (coming from Fuse No. 57) should be hot at all times.
There should be power at Fuse No. 57 at all times. Fuse No. 17 should have power with the ignition switch in the ON position.
When you jumped the fan switch harness connector (located the thermostat housing), did you turn the ignition to the ON position (car not running)?
You can also pull the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box and test for power at the fuse box cavity terminals. Out of the four terminals, one terminal is for power (coming from Fuse No. 17) and should be hot with the ignition switch in the ON position. Another terminal (coming from Fuse No. 57) should be hot at all times.
After more continuity testing I do have power to 2 of the terminals with it switched to on, 1 with it off, the fuses are all good and one of the posts go to the fan and the other is grounded, should one be grounded?
One of the terminals for the relay should have ground if the fan switch was jumped.
I previously asked, when you jumped the fan switch harness connector (located the thermostat housing), did you turn the ignition to the ON position (car not running)?
I previously asked, when you jumped the fan switch harness connector (located the thermostat housing), did you turn the ignition to the ON position (car not running)?
Last edited by tech8; Jun 11, 2021 at 11:35 PM.
The one under the 12v constant is always grounded whether the keys are in it or not, I believe that's the one that goes to the radiator fan, would that be the problem?
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The terminal under the 12V constant (hot at all times) is the line to feed the power to the radiator fan motor (once the relay coil is energized and the relay contacts close). That may be okay for now, we can circle around back to that after you try the next test.
Try this, with the relay inserted back, unplug the connector to the fan switch (located at the thermostat housing). Use a spare piece of wire and insert one end into the harness connector cavity terminal with the green wire, and touch the other end of the spare wire to chassis ground. If the radiator fan now turns on with the ignition ON, then it means the ground wire going the the fan switch has an open (break).
Try this, with the relay inserted back, unplug the connector to the fan switch (located at the thermostat housing). Use a spare piece of wire and insert one end into the harness connector cavity terminal with the green wire, and touch the other end of the spare wire to chassis ground. If the radiator fan now turns on with the ignition ON, then it means the ground wire going the the fan switch has an open (break).
Thank you, I meant the wire that was supposed to go to the fan, I'm not sure why I typed ground, but the fan wire was broken where it splits out of the big wire loom.
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