I recently broke an axle in my car and have a few changes I was going to be making soon anyways so I figured I壇 go ahead and start on them. I値l be installing a standalone ecu as well as rewIrving the entire car and pulling the motor/trans to degrease and do some major clean up under the hood.while the motor is out I was already planning on doing the water pump and timing belt. I was thinking since the motor will be out, going ahead and pulling the engine apart and putting fresh bearing in it, doing a light hone on the cylinders and re ringing with a larger gap, which I understand is the problem area of the bottom end and adding arp head studs and a good head gsasket. All that considering everything is still within spec and I feel it痴 in good enough shape. My question is, that with the gap opened up, what is will the next weak link be and at what power level? Car already makes 300 to the tire at 14psi through a turbonetics 6157. Is 350-375 still in the safe zone? I would really like to turn the boost up for about another year, maybe a little less while I acquire pistons and stuff the go through the head and cams,already got a set of pauter x beam rods. Car gets driven a couple times a week when the weather is nice and I don稚 beat on it a lot. Been shifting it at 8000rpm when something rolls up on me on my way to work or something.

Yes I know about fuel requirements and I知 well aware of the work/time involved. Please keep anything except tech discussion about what I asked to yourself

 

I知 not sure what engine it is but I assume it痴 a B,D, or K series since that痴 what most people have.
If you already have the Pauter X beam connecting rods and you are changing the bearings, then you might as well am install them now rather than wait a year.
If you plan on changing the pistons in a year, is there any reason why you can稚 just wait until you can save the extra $500 for new pistons now, since you値l already have the block apart and be spending money on bearings and piston rings/hone, etc.?
The limiting factor of stock pistons and rods is usually the connecting rod. For B they fail more likely the higher you are past 300hp, but some people have made 400hp. And D series they can fail closer to 300hp. K series the rods seem to be good to about 400hp.
Altogether, I壇 recommend just doing the pistons now with the connecting rods to meet your goal of 350-375whp.

 

Says right in the title that I知 asking about a b16. Also as I stated I知 considering this route because am going to go through the entire engine at the same time after I accumulate the parts to do the bottom end and head. The ultimate goal is 500whp not 350-375. I知 asking if 350-375 maybe even 400 safe with the stock pistons and rods with the ring gap opened a bit. As far as money is concerned, this isn稚 my only car. I also fund half of everything on my father and mines camaro that we race so all my extra money is split between 2 cars plus my other hobbies.
I知 really not trying to be a dick but I知 not asking for advice on what order to do things, just technical discussion on the questions asked

 

Ring gap for turbo you figure .006ﾗbore(in inches).. So, say you have an 82mm bore.. 82mm comes out to just below 3 and 1/4.. 3.23 if I did it right.. So.. .006ﾗ3.23= .019