Faraz123

Hey everyone, this is my first post in the forced induction section and I was trying to get some info before starting my build (in maybe a year or so). So the goal is to basically get an S2k as my daily and then build my f22b1. So I was hoping to get somewhere around 325-350 hp. I was wondering if this was safe/possible on a F22B1 that has a stock head, no porting or any other upgrades. The block I was thinking of just changing the rods/pistons to Bisimoto ones and changing any bearings in the process. I heard the stock sleeves were very strong in this one. I was thinking of T3/T4 hybrid turbo and all the supporting upgrades, front mount, injectors, fuel pump, wideband, electronic boost controller etc.

I'm not sure what to do about a ECU, should I get a complete aftermarket one or a chipped one? And which one is better for a tuner? Thanks and I appreciate the help!

Aradin

You don't -need- a built bottom end for 350whp. Insurance is nice, sure but the stock motor will hold it for a long time with a good tune. I've been messing with these motors for many years, boosted and not. They stay together for a loooooooong time at the kind of power level. Just start with a healthy motor, put in a new headgasket with ARP headstuds, new timing belt/water pump, and get a good tune. I can't stress that enough. A good tune is everything.

As for the stock head, it's poop. Plain and simple. You can push them farther than that. They flow really bad in stock form but I managed to make over 450whp on a completely stock head. Your power will peak like crazy at 5500rpm and then consistently fall off until you shift.

The sleeves are standard cast iron. That doesn't mean they're strong. It just means they play well with your average forged piston. The H series FRM sleeves are actually a lot stronger but they do not play well with forged slugs. If you're set on building a rod/piston motor then STAY STOCK BORE to keep as much strength in the sleeve as possible. The little bit you gain by going with a 1mm over piston, such as the one Bisi offers(which is actually an arias piston and they're noisy as hell), is not worth sacrificing more of the already lackluster strength of the stock sleeves.

For an ECU, you can get away with just any OBD1 VTEC socketed ECU to get tuned on Crome but investing in Neptune/Hondata will go a long way with tunability and features.

Hope that clears some things up.

Faraz123

The thing is by the time I get to the build the bottom end will have like 160k on it so I wouldn't mind paying the extra $800 or whatever for the upgrades. Also leaves room to push it further if I decide i want more boost later on.

Thanks for that, I actually didn't even know the Bisi pistons would require a bore, I wasn't planning on it. And I'd like to get a Hondata or Neptune but tbh this is like the area I least understand. So I pretty much have to convert to OBDI or will the aftermarket ones allow me to still retain OBDII functionality? Like pulling codes or getting emissions tested.

And how much do you think a good tune would run me? I like really don't want to skimp on my build which is why I'm trying to learn as much as possible and budget for it accordingly. (Haha get it...ACCORDingly) And thanks for your reply, super helpful I really appreciate it!