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Hello all,
I've been searching these internets for a good answer to my questions. But, I have yet to find one. So, I thought I'd ask here. A little about the situation...I posted about my 1997 Accord LX Coupe that I just got with wiring issues. I have almost got that figured out. But, as with these older models in northern rural areas, there's a lot of rust underneath. Including the fuel/brake lines. I see a lot of people suggesting the nickel/copper line. And, if I'm not mistaken, I need 5/16 for the return/vent lines, and 3/8 for the main fuel lines. My first question is, if I didn't want to go that route, are there any other (possibly later) models I could use the lines from? Lines to go only had 98 and newer, anymore. And, while the nickel/copper line is one way. I feel like maybe I could get line kits that fit a later years and have everything fit. What about other models. For example, I know some Acura models have components I can use. I'm just trying to figure out the easiest way for me to do these repairs, as I don't really have a lot of space, or friends that are able to help out. So, it's just me and my new project. I hope I was clear enough. Mahalo in advance.
I think these guys make OEM replacement but also can do custom items. Can't hurt to ask.
Unfortunately, the only lines they have on their site are ones from 1998 and on, for Accords. There's no listing for custom lines. I can ask. But, I did look at them before making this thread.
Nobody is going to be able to tell you definitively what lines will work. If I had to guess, probably none will be a direct fit. There are a lot of different variables like mounting points, length and width of the vehicle, where the fuel filter is, etc. It's going to be hard to say. I'm sure there's something out there that will be close but you will probably spend more time and money trying to figure it out than if you just made new lines. 97-99 Acura CL may be very similar but you will need to do your own research on that.
It's a big job if you have to replace all of the hard lines but it's worth doing yourself because it's fairly simple and doesn't require a lot of tools or experience. You can watch some youtube videos to get an idea.
Depending on the extent of the damage(like if there is just rust focused in one area of the lines under the car), you may be able to just patch in some new line with unions. I have done this many times with great success. If the car is not worth spending a bunch of money on that would be the route I would choose. Patch them, paint everything with some rust converter and then some heavy duty top coat that will resist the elements.
Nobody is going to be able to tell you definitively what lines will work. If I had to guess, probably none will be a direct fit. There are a lot of different variables like mounting points, length and width of the vehicle, where the fuel filter is, etc. It's going to be hard to say. I'm sure there's something out there that will be close but you will probably spend more time and money trying to figure it out than if you just made new lines. 97-99 Acura CL may be very similar but you will need to do your own research on that.
It's a big job if you have to replace all of the hard lines but it's worth doing yourself because it's fairly simple and doesn't require a lot of tools or experience. You can watch some youtube videos to get an idea.
Depending on the extent of the damage(like if there is just rust focused in one area of the lines under the car), you may be able to just patch in some new line with unions. I have done this many times with great success. If the car is not worth spending a bunch of money on that would be the route I would choose. Patch them, paint everything with some rust converter and then some heavy duty top coat that will resist the elements.
Thank you for the reply. Yes. I realize there isn't a simple answer. That's why I'm posting here, to see if anyone has anything I haven't thought of. I'm definitely going to check into the CL, as I know I can use other parts off them. Another option I came across is this...
I know it says fuel line. But, I'm unsure if this is usable as the main feed line, since that's usually under a lot of pressure. Usually, these lines are more for the fuel rail and the like. Anyone have any experience with these?
Those generic kits use cheap rubber line internally that will allow fumes to seep through the material.
Doing it like that would be an option but more expensive. The correct way is to use PTFE(Teflon) hose which will not allow fumes to seep through. You would also need to drop the fuel tank, adapt the feed/return ports and run an inline filter which usually run in the range of $100 for a decent one alone. Combine that with the cost of more tools required and you're still looking at making hard lines being your best and least expensive option.
Hi all. I don't know if I'm allowed to post on my own thread so long after the last post. But, I didn't want to make a new thread, when my current question is still related. Anyway, I was finally able to get under the car again, and get some pics of my fuel lines. I know where the leak is. I just don't know if I'm able to just splice in a piece, or if the whole line in shot...here's a pic of the leak.
it's just behind the driver's seat. Basically, under the driver's side back seat. I'm attaching additional pictures of the rest of the lines, as well.
I'm starting to think I can cut the lines a little past where they curve up past the firewall, and a bit before where they head up the fuel tank, and splice in something. If I did metal lines, it would maybe be one bend. The thing I'm not sure on is if I'm looking at solid lines, aside from the obvious super bad rust. I was actually initially ready to just take all three lines out whole and run PTFE lines from tank to fuel rail. Mahalo in advance.
Once again, in back with a question...I got some rubber fuel line, and I am looking at options for connecting it to the hard lines...should I get these, or just generic clamps and crank them down?
As long as those are fuel resistant, those should work nicely. They will be much better than a clamp. If you do end up with a clamp, make sure you do a few of them in a row and not just one to give yourself a better chance of no leak. But personally, I think the barbed connection approach (as long as they are the right size for your hoses) will be a very nice way to go. They are a pain in the *** to get disconnected later, so try not to do that too often. Make sure you have the matching fuel tool to unlock them.
As long as those are fuel resistant, those should work nicely. They will be much better than a clamp. If you do end up with a clamp, make sure you do a few of them in a row and not just one to give yourself a better chance of no leak. But personally, I think the barbed connection approach (as long as they are the right size for your hoses) will be a very nice way to go. They are a pain in the *** to get disconnected later, so try not to do that too often. Make sure you have the matching fuel tool to unlock them.
I imagine they would be fuel resistant. I mean, they are listed for fuel lines. I'm just considering them, since the line I have is already hard to work with. I figured I'd fight with it to get it on the fittings then climb under the car and attach it to the hard line. Just to be clear, I still have to flare the hard line, yes? Or, will the fitting just slide over the line that I'm connecting to without more than cleaning the ends?
Hi all, back again. I am still trying to solve this problem. I have a few more questions about fuel lines. First, has anyone tried using 6th or 4th gen oem fuel lines to replace the existing ones? I know they went through a revamp. But, I can't imagine it's 100% different. I've tried Google. And, there isn't anything definitive saying one way or the other. Second, I can't find anything telling me how long the oem lines are from tank to engine. If I have to go with PTFE or something, it will help to know what length I need without getting too much. I know having extra is not a bad thing. But, I'm on a strict budget. I know splicing in line is the cheapest way. But, I don't want to do that only to have to do it again because another part of the line is shot.
I don't really understand why you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. Since you're on a budget just buy some 25' rolls of hard line and make new ones yourself. I just had to do all the brake and fuel lines front to back on my daily and I was in it less than $150 in parts. You could save some more if you reused the old fittings. It was a very tedious and laborious job but it only took a couple of afternoons. Your situation looks similar to what mine was, albeit mine wasn't as bad. You can cut them off right above that bracket near the fuel tank and splice them in there. Just make sure you use an actual tubing cutter and nothing that will make sparks. For any other trouble spots where the coating is starting to flake or whatever, just remove the loose material and coat it with some Rust Reformer.
If you're in an area that's prone to rusting out cars I would opt for copper line, or at least some of the coated stuff. Galvanized probably won't last very long. The brake lines are 3/16, the fuel feed line is 5/16, and the fuel return and EVAP lines are 1/4.
I don't really understand why you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. Since you're on a budget just buy some 25' rolls of hard line and make new ones yourself. I just had to do all the brake and fuel lines front to back on my daily and I was in it less than $150 in parts. You could save some more if you reused the old fittings. It was a very tedious and laborious job but it only took a couple of afternoons. Your situation looks similar to what mine was, albeit mine wasn't as bad. You can cut them off right above that bracket near the fuel tank and splice them in there. Just make sure you use an actual tubing cutter and nothing that will make sparks. For any other trouble spots where the coating is starting to flake or whatever, just remove the loose material and coat it with some Rust Reformer.
If you're in an area that's prone to rusting out cars I would opt for copper line, or at least some of the coated stuff. Galvanized probably won't last very long. The brake lines are 3/16, the fuel feed line is 5/16, and the fuel return and EVAP lines are 1/4.
Thank you for that. I'm not trying to reinvet anything. I'm just trying to fix what I have. I don't have a metal bending tool. There isn't a shop near me that would do it, and I can't afford to buy the tool, if I'm only using it once. So, I was just looking for at least an estimated length from tank to fuel filter. That way, I could order just the amount I need. Which should be cheaper than ordering all that. Right?
25' rolls are cheap. It's better to have extra material in case you mess up flaring a line or cut one too short. I paid $18 a roll for coated 5/16 line. 3/16 and 1/4 were cheaper. One roll of each did all the rearward lines from the firewall to the gas tank/brake hoses and I had some extra leftover. You can bend the stuff by hand, mostly. For tight bends you can pick up a simple tubing bender for like $7. The copper lines you can basically bend by hand into any shape you need, no issues. It's not a difficult job at all. Just time consuming.
You don't have to flare fuel lines either. You can use compression fittings when splicing in new sections to make it a lot quicker and easier. Flaring lines on the car is a PITA but required for brake lines. You can find all this stuff at Amazon or at your local parts store.
Fuel line questions
