Ill start off saying this is my first car it's a 99 Civic ex coupe. Also I have no knowledge or skill but willing and wanting to learn and fix this problem and more to come.
i bought a car on the 27th (3 days ago) in Irvine, Tx the ad is right below. I thought it looked good and $1300 which i assumed was cheap (every other civic i was looking at was asking for me) In my eyes it looked more then okay for me and had lower mileage then anything i found before it but it was left outside for a year with out driving it.
https://offerup.com/item/detail/1055651402/

I finally we get a test drive it and my brother in-law that's a little bit more verse in cars tested it for me. The suspension felt good, alignment perfectly straight, and it was idling at around 1250-1500 rpm, and the motor sounded okay. better then some cars I've been in before that run reliably. After the test drive We look at the motor and what my brother in law said it was okay enough but will have to be maintained and cared for and this is what it looks like (This picture was taken today, we did not take pictures of the engine when we bought it but it looked essentially like what you see in the pic just a couple more leaves around the edges)





We drive it home to Plano, Tx which was 25 miles with no problems what so ever, I parked it and called it a night and didnt use it till today. I drove it to go back to the sellers home because i mention a couple flaws I over looked and he kindly reimbursed me $100. At this time ive driven the car for 50 maybe 60 miles total since purchasing it and it was running fine with no issues other then steering wheel vibrating quite a bit.


On the way home about half way there is when my engine stalled and died on me and had to pull into the shoulder. After sitting there for 10 minutes of me sitting there trying to figure out what to do i start trying to get it to start after a few attempts with no power no crank at all each time, and on the last attempt saw the bottom of the ground wire cable smoking and glowing yellow so i stop and called a friend which told me if thats happening its probably a dead battery. So I took out the battery and the ground cable because the rubber around it was melted and didnt look safe and went to autozone to replace both. I tried to start it again now with a new battery and ground cable I was getting power but no crank and the ground cable was getting warm pretty quickly eventually I just called a tow truck because it was getting really late.




Extra pictures, maybe some are helpful






TL:DR I bought a 99 EX Coup and didnt really inspected it carefully and after 50 miles it stalled on me. No power no crank. I bought a new battery and ground because the original ground starting melting after a couple trys to start it I got power but no crank. I dont know where to go from here i have seen a few videos but would like to get some opinions here on my next plan of action before i go and buy anything since im basically broke. PLEASE HELP as i really need this car to work!


















 

When a negative or ground wire is getting too much current it usually means one of the other ground wires is bad.

There should be another major ground wire going to the transmission housing on a bracket I believe, and another one from the rad support (yours looks to be behind the head light) going to the power steering pump bracket.

Being it won't crank I suspect the one from the frame rail to the transmission is faulty.

If they check out then I would suspect the starter itself but a bad starter doesn't typically cause a stall. A ground will.

 

 They look okay to me, what do you think?

 

You should use a digital multi-meter and do an impedance test on the grounds. Visual inspection can be deceiving.

You should also do the impedance test on the new negative battery cable to make sure it's making good body contact.

 

After the grounds, you should check the primary wire to the starter. It's likely shorted and bad due to the same abuse the negative cable went through.

 

It looks like you need a new positive terminal for your battery connection. Sometimes you can get some power, but there isn't enough to start it. You don't have to replace the whole positive cable, just cut it off closest to the end where the red terminal is. Go to auto zone and get a new positive cable terminal.
Also, what would help is taking your car to the car wash and using the engine degreaser/cleaner. Fist lightly mist the engine bay with the "rinse" water. Don't spray it directly at the electronic parts such as alternator or fuel injectors. Just a light rinse, then use the engine degreaser (also lightly misting it/ spraying from a distance of like 5 feet away). Then rinse it again and drive it around. The oil leaks and grease should start to run off little by little. Don't expect all of the grease and oil to come off all at once. It just start to break it down, and as you drive it, it drips off.
That will help you find any new leaks or places where the engine oil is puddling up.
Don't worry too much about your purchase, I've bought many civic in this condition for about the same price, in Texas as well. You made a good purchase, it just needs some cleaning, and small maintenance parts.
You might want new spark plugs, an oil change, fuel filter, and air filter. They don't cause the engine to not crank, but they are needed usually on older Civics like this that haven't been taken care of. Also, a new ignition rotor, which is inside of the distributor, and can be accessed by removing the 3 screws around the distributor cap.
Right now, I would do the positive battery connector, then look at the connections to the starter next, which is on the front side of the transmission.
I just sold 2 Civics like this one in the last year, so, mostly they just need cleaning and maintenance done that the previous owner neglected to do.

 

@TomCat39 Thank you very much for your pointers just got a multi-meter and a complete circuit tested and watched a couple videos on how to test the ground, going to test everything right now! ill update you with pictures and such with my findings :D

@highschooler Thank you aswell, being reassured that i didnt overpay is a huge weight off my shoulders i appreciate that! Im going to get that terminal today and try to replace that myself. I also did think about getting everything replaced, ill also look into a Ignition rotor when i go to autozone for the terminal. When im looking at the connections to the starter what am i specifically looking for?

 

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s..._0_0?rrec=true

A battery terminal (end part) that looks like this, where you can bolt on the cable underneath the two small bolts tightly. You can take your old positive cable, then cut it with a tool called a diagonal cutter. You won't be able to cut all of the copper cable in one single slice, you will have to take a few snips at it. Make sure the cable is even, and try not to cut it in different spots, just closest to the end. So then you'll have a cable with about half an inch of copper wire exposed, or make sure you have some copper wire exposed as this makes contact with the battery terminal, and the old rusted/twisted terminal end cut off. Then bolt that exposed wiring into the space. Next, bolt on the round terminal ending part to the positive side of the battery. So basically cut off the old terminal, and bolt on a new one.

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pl...ers/462487_0_0

Here is an example of a cable cutter/ diagonal cutter tool that you might already have in a typical tool box.

https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...der-head-cover

Get at least number 3 for $10, but I'd get number 1 which has other gaskets also. This isn't causing your car to not start, so you don't need it right away, but it looks like you have a valve cover leak. It's easy to change, but just have someone like the person you brought with you to buy the car help with the valve cover gasket. It's typical on older cars of all kinds.

https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...tor-tec-westec

This is the page with the distributor rotor. It's number 3, and you should also get number 8. This may cause your car to not start, but if it already started, it might not be this, and since your car isn't cranking/turning over, then I'm thinking its the battery terminal. If the car cranks, but doesn't start, it can be this. It's a maintenance item anyways. Have a friend help you with this.

 

@highschooler @TomCat39

So being that im broke and i cant buy what i need at the moment i decided to check the grounds and clean up the connections including the existing positive terminal

BEFORE

AFTER
I also did some testing as well on each and every ground and it looked like it passed..... right?

 

i also found this.... is this a hole??!?? in the engine block?!?!~?!? @highschooler @TomCat39

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vUTsx1T5iQ1xsj6U6

 

Test the battery connections on the outside and not the inside. To start the car, the battery has to provide a lot of amps, not just the 12 volts, starting is one of the most demanding parts of the battery.

 

That does look like a small hole. As long as oil isn’t pouring out or leaking out it should still start and drive. You could get someone to weld that shut, or the cheap way is JB Weld which is hand held putty type of stuff. Try to clean that debris and see what is left. Don’t spray any water on that hole to clean it, just use a rag.

 

It's really hard to see where on the engine that is. Can you give a larger area shot and point to where that show is?

Looks like a bracket was broken off or something of the like.

You also should continuity test the main wire to the starter. If I recall it's connected to the positive post of the battery. You grounds looks clean and good. Anywhere you scratched paint off wire brushing I would shoot with some paint to prevent rust/corrosion and seal up your good connection.

 

Called a mechanic and the engine is seized. GG yall got a spare i can have? lmfao

 

That would explain the melted cable as the starter repeatedly tried to turn a seized engine and user keep trying repeatedly or for extended durations.

 

How does the oil look on the dip stick? Is it very low? If you have very low oil, or none on the dip stick, that may have caused it to seize.
You'll know if the engine is seized if you try to rotate the crankshaft bolt which is 19mm, I think. With the transmission in neutral, the crankshaft should be able to turn counter clock wise. If it doesn't turn, then your engine is seized. If you can turn the crankshaft bolt, then it isn't seized.
I don't have a spare, lol, but you should be able to get a low mileage replacement engine for less than $1k. I had a 94 civic ex that needed an engine rebuild, and I got a quote from a junk yard to replace my engine with a Civic DX engine, with labor, for $1k.
If the engine is seized, it's your first car, and you don't have money to put into it, you might just cut your losses and sell the vehicle as-is for whatever you can get for it. Then just save for something more reliable. The first thing to do now is to verify that it is seized. That hole in the block might have been there a long time, and you just aren't getting electrical power to start it. Or, when you you were driving it home, something went terribly wrong and the engine seized. It should have made a loud metal sound if you got the hole in the block while driving, or if the engine seized while you were driving. If it seized then it would instantly shut off, it wouldn't rev down in RPMs. Did you notice this?

 

Holes in the block are a good indication that something is BAD wrong... and in the photos above, there is an obvious hunk of aluminum block material knocked out of the saddle area of the block. This means that parts are flying around inside the engine, and decided to exit (or at least try) around the #1 connecting rod area.

 

I'm glad you could tell the location of that. I wasn't sure from the pic but felt it was catastrophic. Even though I've seen broken brackets neglected that looked similar.

 

I couldn't see where it was. My guess is the engine ran low on oil since it was leaking so bad and the engine did seize.
Maybe he can answer how the car stoped working... All of a sudden the engine abruptly shut off with a loud noise, or what...
Anyways, he should try to turn the crankshaft and see what happens. I'm not sure if he's experienced enough to trouble shoot it and turn the crankshaft though.
MFDOOM.exe any further information on it?

 

Yea, Thats what the mechanic did. He made me turn the wheels to the left then he used his wrench to try to see if he could turn the crank shaft and it didnt budge what so ever. He even let me try and said "You may think im lying to you or trying to exaggerate but go ahead see if you can turn it" and im 6'2 and work out a fair bit... i used all my force trying to get the wrench to turn and it nothing.

I think what could have caused it was when the engine stalled while on the freeway and i pulled onto the shoulder and put the car in park i saw that i had it on D3 the entire ride home or maybe nudged it into d3 on accident... and to my knowledge i dont think idling for red lights and being in slow traffic while on D3 is okay... especially on an engine that was not started for about a year.

It is what it is, all i can do is learn from my mistake and make sure im in the right gear. The only thing on my mind now is if this car is worth putting a new engine in it? I paid 1300 for it but ended up getting 700 back immediately because i let him know all the troubles i went through... that also made me suspicious of him, i feel like there was probably a few problems with the engine already but thats besides the point... essentially got the car for 600. Is it worth investing 1k + into it for a engine swap? should i scrap it? The mechanic said i should fix it because "there aren't many ex coupes in the condition mine was in" but that could be him trying to sell himself because he was saying he would also be able to do it for me

@highschooler @TomCat39 @JRCivic1

 

Driving in D3 won't have anything to do with seizing the engine. Driving with no oil or extremely low oil will.

D3 will just be higher rpm is all and it won't use the torque converter lock out for better fuel economy. The higher rpm of course will be even harder on no oil but really, any driving on no oil is going to kill the engine.

It's up to you on putting another motor in. For me, it's a yes as I can do it myself. For you, it sounds like you'd be paying someone as well as paying for a motor. Might not be a worth while deal for you being for the same money you could potentially get another used car that's in better running condition.

 

The odd part is the oil is at the 2nd notch, even now with that hole in the block... i was told it would be around 500 for the engine and 500 for labor. so adding the 700 that i paid, id basically have 1700 put into the car... i was looking for a new engine too on car-part.com and ive seen some engines at 80-100k miles on them.

in your opinion would it be worth going through with the swap or purchase a new car with a budget around my 1300? mileage wise where im located (plano tx) i havent been able to find anything under 150k miles with my max being 1300

@TomCat39

 

Which 2nd notch? Regardless, if there's no oil pressure your engine is fucked. That oil needs to get to the top of the block and flow down.

 

It's difficult to determine what exactly happened now. But it does seem like it's seized since you and your mechanic couldn't turn the engine over at all. It could have just been a bad condition engine, with or without oil, and it had an unknown failure. Such as an oil pump failure, piston ring, or bearing.

As far as the worth, if you only paid 600 for it, and you can get the whole swap done for 1000, then you'd have a car that's worth it for 1600. But now might be a good time to get out of the car and sell it as-is for what you can get for it. Maybe 4 to 500, and take the 100 loss. It depends if that year and model are something you want to keep for a while. See if the engine swap would have a warranty or not, and go from there. You could list it for sale here on Honda-tech, and also craigslist. It should hold it's value whether you sell it or do the engine swap.

 

If the mechanic still has the car ask him to go over the rest with a fine tooth comb. By that I mean, look at all the bushings, the ball joints, the tie rods etc and even if he spots rust. If he can do a fairly thorough inspection and everything checks out, then yes I'd pay for the swap. From what I've heard, finding decent 5th gens in your area is not easy and usually comes at a premium. The original seller basically refunded you the cost of the motor so now it's just labor costs.

If the main thing wrong suspension wise is trailing arm bushings, that's not a bad deal at all. I've driven with shot trailing arm bushings for years as long as yer not racing it, it just makes the back end clunky over bumps and such. Tie rods are a safety issue as are ball joints. And rust, it depends on where and how much.