So I just recently got my car finished and tuned but noticed my car smokes. Turbo is fairly new doesn't have even 1,000 miles on it
Fresh rebuilt motor, new valve stem eeals, new valve guides etc.

My oil drain line is a 10AN sized line with barb fittings and 3AN Feed line with a .035 size Garrett oil restrictor.

My catch can setup is the 2 plugs off the back of the block. (I was told I should get rid of this setup and switch to catch can ports off the valve cover instead, as it might fix my smoking issue)

The video shows it smoking with the heaviest smoke coming as i'm decelerating.

Any ideas? I was going to start with the catch can first.

 

Smoke upon decel is usually valve stem seals

 

The oil drain line looks like a good angle, so it's probably not that.

 

I know but I just installed brand new ones.

I figured

 

Ive seen fresh seals leak a few miles after installed. I dont remember, did you have new valve guides installed. Did you fill the cylinders with air to see if it leaks from the valves.

 

^^ This here. Especially going downhill coasting in gear,, about 3-4k.. Downshift 1 gear and coast, then hit the gad after a few seconds. If it smokes after hitting the accelerator then stops, it's those seals. If it smokes under boost, it's the turbo.. The valve seals may have been just replaced but some of them, especially the exhaust in cases like this, may not have seated well. Don't count them out, buddy, these are inexpensive and super easy to replace among any other possibilities.
Edit:
I finally watched the video, my wifi was going slow so I switched to phone data and it loaded for me. Lol! Anyways.. This is CLASSIC valve stem seal symptoms. Something about the seals; they didn't seat right, one or more may have torn, etc.. Seals, sir.. Seals!

 

I agree from the wonderful video sent, looks more like valve stem seals than the turbo. Seems to be leaking under vacuum as ls joker has pointed out.
Just because they were new doesn't mean they weren't installed properly.

 

Yeah I have new supertech bronze valve guides installed and new supertech intake and exhaust valve stem seals. The machine shop did the install of the guides and seals. I haven't filled the cylinders with air to check yet.

I just don't feel like pulling the head back off and having to reset timing, valve lash yada yada ugggghhh. I'm just so over this car.

sigh......

 

I totally understand. It can be done without removing the head though, I just did this the other day with a GSR. I removed the spark plugs and did the ol' stick trick in the cylinder to ensure the piston was up top per cylinder; then removed the top support bracket dealies, then cams, then springs, replaced seals, replaced springs, spun crank to get the next 2 cylinders. Rinse n repeat. If the piston is up and the valve just happens to fall, piston being up top should prevent it from dropping into the cylinder. The fella ended up removing the head anyways but, the method worked. Lol!

 

Buy the Lisle 36200 valve keeper remover/installer and cheap valve seal remover/installer kit or something like it. I was surprised at how easy removing and installing the seals was with such a cheap kit. No heat/torching the seals required - just grab them with the pliers in the kit, twist and pull and off they come. You can do this job on a Saturday, easy peasy.

 

Easiest method for valve stem seals ive used and seen, is putting some bungy rope in the cylinder. Then rotate to tdc of that cylinder. That will keep the valves from falling. As long as you dont rotate.

 

I'll think about it lol sounds easy.

Thank you i'll look into these tools. I forsee a lot of "F" bombs being dropped trying to remove and reinstall the keepers as well as get the valve stem seals off.

I saw a few Youtube videos of people doing this. Would prob be the only way I could do it as well since I don't have access to compressed air. So the bungee rope just sits on the dome of the piston to fill up the remaining space in the cylinder at TDC to hold the valves up correct?

 

yes sir. I had good luck with the hpt autosport tool. I believe was the brand.

 

The Lisle tool makes removing and installing keepers a snap. Cheap, works well, and WAY less complicated than some of the other tools out there. If you have really stiff springs, it may require more effort to reinstall the keepers, but it's doable.

 

I got this tool and works like a charm and it made it easy to take off so you don’t crush the seal while removing it and also the install made it simple for the seal to line up correctly so you don’t install it crooked.

I’ve done this a few months ago and worked like a charm also. Just make sure as a precaution to wedge to crank with something long cause when I did mine it tended to move a tad when I went to install the keepers so I had to use a long torque wrench and kinda wedged it against the floor.
Make sure you fill the cylinder 3-4ft or however much of rope in the cylinder and rotate crank until you feel it not turning any more. The only thing about this process is it’s a pain to fill the cylinder with the rope in a tiny spark plug hole but just have patience and use a long screw driver to help push the rope down but of course make sure your piston is down on that cylinder your working on.


Very Important: Make sure you have rags or paper towels and plug up the holes inside the head where the oil drains, I used a long screw driver just to stick in any spots to make sure they are no hidden holes, this is so you don’t drop the keepers down the holes before you take off the keepers. A long skinny magnetic tool is very helpful you can find in your local part store to pick up the keepers.

It took me about 1-2hrs to finish of course taking breaks and taking my time on it. The rope feed is the only process that’ll take the most time up but other than that if you have the valve spring remover tool as mentioned above and the valve seal tool remover/ installer that’ll make it more of a breeze and you’ll have it together and running in a few hrs.

 

You can use compressed air to keep the valves up! I used a fitting that's used for compression tests.

 

It's blue smoke or black smoke?

 

Heya, folks! In the video he provided, it's highly likely due to exhaust valve stem seals not properly seated or otherwise installed incorrectly that's causing the issue.

 

Yep. I think that's the consensus now. Not only valves, but which valves.

 

My vote is exhaust. Gotta pull that mani and check for teh wetness. It didn't look bad so, I'd say 1, *maybe* 2 ports..

 

Did you find out if it was the valve stem seals?

 

Negative my daily driver is down currently so I'm stuck driving this car until I get my daily fixed.