Hello!

I have a 2004 CRV EX with AWD automatic with 140,000 miles on it.

I'm looking to possibly modify it to enhance its off road capabilities for off road trips, camping, etc. I also need to daily it so I don't want to turn it into a rock crawler by any means but was hoping to achieve my goal beefing up the suspension and maybe coaxing a little bit more power out of the engine. I know these cars can get into the high 200,000 miles easily and I don't want to shorten its life span with modifications so im searching for some insight

Basically, how to I get more power/torque out of my engine without ruining it, (mid 200+ WHP) is there any suggestions, do & don't, order in which I should start, reliable after market vendors I should check out?

My so far my starting mods list contains:

-wheels/tires
-sway bars/coilovers/links/tie rods
-1-2 inch lift
-plugs, cables, distributor cap, rotor
-ram air intake
-new exhaust (maybe headers with tuning)

I’ve worked on my own cars since I’ve been driving but his is my first actual build and I’m basically trying to maintain the essence of this car while adding a bit of power and giving it some new shoes.

Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions!

 

Skip the engine mods, there are no tuning options for the CR-V PCM. Intake and exhaust are really not going to do a whole lot other than make more noise.

Lift and tires are easy, might shorten the life of the front CV joints a bit. Also may cause the CV joints to vibrate at the higher operating angles. Also fuel economy and acceleration are going to take a dive.

Engine is coil on plug, no distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires to replace. If you replaced the plugs at 100k miles with the factory plugs then you still have 60k miles left on the currently installed plugs.

 

When most people list swaybars in their "upgrade list" they're typically looking to thicken the swaybar to reduce body roll. If you lift your CR-V, body roll will increase a bit, but a thicker swaybar will further limit your articulation offroad. If you plan to disconnect your swaybar links prior to going offroad then it doesn't much matter, but if your intention is to leave your swaybars connected and you want to maximize your offroad capability, definitely don't thicken your swaybars. If you plan to spend 95% of your time on pavement and "offroad" means an unpaved dirt road, then thicker swaybars may be worthwhile. If you wind up anywhere where the left and right wheels will be doing very different things (i.e. going over rocks, off-camber stuff), leave the swaybars light.

 

Pretty limited.
crv was built as a AWD wagon to replace the Civic Wagovan.
the only way to get mid 200HP is either replace the CRV with Pilot, or install an S2000 engine. The Acura RDX has a turbo 2.4 for a few years then a V6 option later if you want that size ( crv size) in a V6 and that gives you the power. But really that 2.4 in the CR-V and its current configuration is bulletproof and will always give you great fuel economy. It is designed to last a lifetime. My highest Km crv is a 393,000 but living is salty winters of Ontario killed the underbody with corrosion; typical of eastern cars. My west coast CRV had 365,000 km on it and I sold it to a friend who rolled her Cherokee, and she loves it. She takes it up the mountains and camps in it regularly. I have a 3-inch lift on my CRV still with the stock 16 inch tires and rims but I haven't had any issues with CV joints. Sway bar links are very cheap to buy and I would probably not change the sway bar thickness because you'd have a stiffer ride.

 

How many klicks does she have on the CR-V now?

 

This one has 275000. I just got it last month.. the biggest thing I had to do to it was change the countershaft bearing in the trans because it was chattering away.. other than that I've changed the two front axles because I had a vibration when I first got it and accelerating between 60 and 80 km an hour and I'm going to change the sway bar links and bushings they're just worn out. This kit it involved the spacers between the rear springs in the body and between the struts in the body up front also I change the rear camber control arms and put camber kit in the front struts. I ordered new lower control arms because the bushings are all ripped out from age and I need to replace the ball joint in the left front I've already done the right front because I ripped the boots separating the control arm from the knuckle but they are kind of sloppy because they do have some kilometres and a ball joints are cheap and easy to change.

 

Thanks for your reply!

I'm not married to any engine mods but since there are no tuning options for the CRV, Do you know if the platform is suitable for a piggyback ECU or if that would increase any tuning potential? I know its in the K series but Im not too well informed on where it sits in that line up so I figured there may be something out there that could help me boost power.

 

There really is no point in the CRV to make it have more power for 'offroading'

These things are fireroad cruisers and that's about it. Think of it more as a soft roader and you won't be let down. Slightly taller AT tires, a mild lift from Dobinson (rocky road outfitters can get you a kit) and maintenance and you'll have a soft roader that'll get you through anything as long as it has clearance. Know the limits of the vehicle. This is a lifted car with part time AWD with open differentials that will slip at any mention of gravel.

 

A mild lift and good AT tires in OE sizing (you don’t want to lower final drive since this will reduce output TQ) and it’s decently capable for what it is. It has decent approach/departure angles and water fording abilities. Keeping all 4 wheels on the ground is a function of which line you take, so driver mod. For steep rocky ascents, you will find a lot of clutch work necessary due to gearing/engine output and lack of a low gear transfer case. It will surprise you however if you let it. Don’t go out alone.