Ran into a fantastic deal on an LSV setup; LS bottom with an ITR head and JDM B16 cable trans, and just could not pass it up.. Block already has ARP headstuds, that's about it. I'll update this thread with pics and all that good stuff. I'll be working on cleaning up the head first, looks in pretty good shape, just needs freshening up. #4 stem seals were leaking a bit but, I have seals around. The head came with B16A cams but I'll be pulling the trigger on some GSR cams, big shout of thanks to TurboLScrx for those, should that be best for my goals. Looking for around 500whp and I really don't think I'll need much to accomplish that efficiently. Everything I can swap from the Z6, I will transfer; injectors, MAP sensor, ECU, etc.. Will keep the turbo; GTW3476 .63 A/R. Since it's a smaller exhaust housing, I may go full ram as opposed to miniram, tial MV-S, blah blah. To-do list:
*cable trans to hydro chassis witchcraft, or newly sourced trans.
*axles and half-shafts
*block internals (CP or Wiseco 9.5-10.0:1), forged rods (turbotuff or equivalent)
*head work- LMAs, springs, valves, seals, cams (GSR)
*Intake mani and TB
*turbo hot parts (hey, Greg, we need to talk!!)
*COP conversion

List may change up as I go along. I'm looking to hit the 500whp mark and any suggestions would be taken into high consideration!

 

You won't need COP for 500 whp... save your money there.

 

I understand that. I think that would be more toward safety blanket measures rather than "need". I wouldn't need super beefy I-beam rods like TurboTuff either, I can slap in some skunks and call it a day. They have treated me well in the D, I see no reason they would serve me less in the B. I anticipate actually spending about 3000 bucks or less to get it 500 capable; highest costs being the turbo hot parts. The block is already bored to 81.5, I'd like to look into where I can take it to on envelope's edge. Lol! As for the trans issue, I have a lead on a hydro LS trans about 3 hours from me that would set me back a whopping 120 bucks with a 10 dollar core charge, if it's still there. May see about building that as well *shrug*.

 

I tend to agree with JRCivic1 here. Could you define what you mean by "safety blanket" with regards to using COP over the traditional distributor? There are plenty of robust measures to ensure that the distributor works perfectly fine with that power level. Sometimes COP can make things unnecessarily complicated for you, at the same time I can see the need for changing out because of the issues of quality parts availability. So, if you don't mind, please let us know your thoughts regarding this.

What fuel do you plan to use for the 500whp? Any particular turbocharger families that you're looking into?

 

As the COP conversion goes, I have seen setups well past what I'm going for do fine on stock dizzy and I have seen setups **** the bed at less. I wouldn't imagine it to be a bad investment as a future-proof. I understand I may not need to at that level but like you mention with quality parts.. I got lucky when my dizzy crapped out on me after building the Z6 the first time. I found a 60 dollar, no-name replacement on Amazon that, to this day, is alive and kicking. Lol! B-series are notorious for ignition/dizzy failure and I know for a fact that I am just the S.O.B. to have problems out the gate with mine. Lol! Fueling I believe I'm gonna stick with 93 and water/meth. I was tapping on the door of 400whp in the single cam with 750cc injectors, 93, and 70/30 methanol/water so, I don't see any reason I couldn't pull that off in a dual cam with ID1050X injectors. If I need to run ethanol, I can. Just a long drive for me to get it but, I usually bring home about 25 gallons at a time.
I'm sticking with the GTW3476 to hit this goal. I may consider upgrading to a BB CHRA with a .82 exhaust on a miniram to keep it decently responsive. If I keep the JB .63, I'm thinking a ramhorn would pair nicely with the smaller exhaust housing. Flow from a B is considerably better but, as I sit now on the Z6, I'm already at 1.7L (as it is bored) so just a touch under the LS, with exhaust port and polish. I wouldn't imagine a drastic difference in spool characteristics, I may be mistaken though *shrug*

 

Cleaning up the exhaust ports today. Opening just enough so it should be really close to gasket match, then knocking down the casting defects. They really aren't that bad on this one compared to the Z6 head. I soaked them all in gas for an hour or so first, then took a 20G copper bore brush, then wipe down with a rag. Still some buildup but, eh, I haven't torn the head down completely just yet. I'll get there. I wanted to see how my cutter bit was gonna act here and dammit man, that sucker is aggressive. Lol! Cranked the setting down a couple notches and just giving some smooth, steady pressure.. Turning out great so far. I'll smooth em out with some aluminum oxide stones, then some sander drums, then Emory cloth to finish.

 

So after teardown and lots of research, it is a JDM B16A head; SiR2. It is stock built to handle 8k+ rpm so, GSR cams will allow me to keep stock springs and retainers and provide a nice powerband for the turbo I'm using. Money saved there. Funds saved on the valvetrain will easily mitigate the cost of the COP conversion. As for the block, I found a rod/piston combo consisting of eagle rods with JE pistons, 9.5:1 82mm. Next up are the turbo mani and downpipe. I'm getting pumped!

 

Make sure you budget for an LSD. I'd get that before you upgrade your ignition system.

 

Would it be a "need" item for a B? I'm running stock trans on the D now for 2 builds and where I can say an LSD would be helpful, it hasn't really been needed. I'm trying to sort my part list into need and want categories.

 

I'm sure you could do without it - but you could also do without the COP, and that's over half of the LSD price right there. I'm just saying my preference would be to prioritize the LSD over the COP.

 

Noted! I've got my single cam listed for sale locally. Possibly some B parts and cash. Lol! I've got word out I'm looking for an LSD hydro trans but folks tend to hold onto those tighter than their credit cards.

 

sure, email goautoworks@hotmail

 

So, for an LSV using a JDM B16A 2gen head, would you recommend a full ram with the .63 exhaust housing on the GTW3476, or should I get a miniram and grab a larger housing?

 

This should be fun. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.

 

mini ram will run out or RPM, so I’d use the full ram for better flow through the RPM range. That turbo will spool fine with either on that motor..... might as well get the one that flows the best. .... just my opinion

 

T3/44 ramhorn and the same exhaust housing would be the first choice, T3/44 mini would be the second...

 

so a ramhorn and upgrade the MVS to MVR?

 

You could probably obtain the 500hp mark with a mini ram, but for sure with the ramhorn. You could do it with the mini ram and a 44mm waste gate, I think. The 38mm waste gate might be pushing it for 500hp worth of exhaust, but it might do it, although it might be a bottleneck and create boost creep/ boost spike.

For other parts, you could start with a distributor, then change to the coil-on-plug later on easily with the engine and turbo system in the car already. It's not like you need it with the engine build. The rest of the parts seem reasonable, as long as you have a 3" exhaust, you can probably make 500whp with your fuel set up. I'm excited to see how it turns out.

 

Nice! making the switch you will notice a big difference in response and spool times! I'd vote for the ramhorn. I have the GoAuto kit on my car with the 44mm T3 ramhorn and DBB GTW3476R with the .82 housing. Weather permitting I should have some dyno numbers this upcoming Tuesday if it'll help.

 

I'm curious to see how the spool difference will be. As it is now, I'm seeing full send on the turbo by 4800rpm mounted on the D. I'm wondering if it will at least be the same. Given that I'd be running a full ram on the B, I'd honestly expect to see a little bit of lag in comparison. I've been dying to see some dyno data from this turbo on a B since you slapped one in your build! That was another possible option I kept on the table as well; buying a BB CHRA for it. Depends upon whether or not I can get the D sold for some additional funding in the beginning of the build.

 

It will be fast enough to have worthless power for 1st and 2nd gears

 

The build sheet is beginning to take shape now. I'm waiting for a final price but, Humble Performance has a package deal for block internals and valvetrain to support 700+hp for 1250.00. I'll add the CSS to this and call it done.

Still TBD.. Intake manifold/TB, transmission, clutch, axles, intercooler piping.

 

For that, I'd stick to the Mini-ram. No GTW3476 would overwhelm a nice smaller mini-ram. Better acceleration, stays within powerband, etc.
But that's just me.

 

I was hoping you'd chime in on that part. Pairing a .82 with a miniram or keeping the .63 and going full ram. Inquiring minds wanna know!

 

for street I might agree, but if he is wanting to also drag race, I would go full ram. Even My top mount spooled stupid fast, I could not imagine needing faster spool and possibly giving up top end by using mini ram