HOPE EVERYONE HAD A GREAT HOLIDAY.

I HAVE A 2002 CIVIC EX FWD AUTOMATIC TRANS. ITS ALWAYS HAD A SLIGHT VIBRATION AT IDLE IN GEAR WHICH WAS VERY VERY MINOR. WITHIN THE LAST MONTH I FELT A VIBRATION BUT IT WASN'T TOO BAD. THEN OUTTA NOWHERE 40MPH-70 ITS SO BAD I HAD TO PULL OVER AND CANT TAKE THE HIGHWAY TO WORK BC I HAVE TO KEEP IT UNDER 40MPH, WHICH THE VIBRATION/SHAKE IS ALMOST NON EXISTENT.

SECOND, I ALSO HERE WHAT SOUNDS LIKE A DRUM BEATING AT DRIVING SPEEDS AND ALSO LOW SPEEDS HITTING BUMPS. I KNOW THAT IS FROM MY FRONT STRUTS BC THEY ARE DONE FOR. BUT I JACKED THE CAR UP AND GRABBED THE AXLE NEAR THE WHEEL AND COULD MOVE IT UP AND DOWN ALMOST HALF AN INCH AND IT REPLICATED THE NOISE. SO LAST NIGHT I REPLACED BOTH FRONT AXLES. WHEN I LEFT I STILL HEARD THE DRUM BUT NOT NEARLY AS BAD, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY THE VIBRATION WAS GONE. I DROVE HOME,PARKED IT OVERNIGHT AND LEFT TO WORK THIS MORNING. IT DROVE GREAT, I HIT THE HIGHWAY AND WITHIN TEN MILES I FELT IT PROGRESSIVELY GET WORSE AND THEN BAM IT WAS BACK JUST LIKE BEFORE.

I DIDNT SEE ANYTHING OBVIOUS OTHER THAN BOTH FRONT STRUTS.

MY ULTIMATE GOAL WAS TO GET THE SHAKING TO STOP INITIALLY, SO I CAN GET TO WORK. I JUST DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO DUMP AND GUESS. ANY IDEAS PLEASE? IM SO LOST.

HERE ARE A FEW THINGS "MIDAS" AND THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT WHERE THE CAR WAS PURCHASED SAID WAS WRONG AND WHAT THEY ACTUALY FIXED BEFORE I BOUGHT THE CAR.

MIDAS SAID, STEERING RACK NOISE RF STRUT LEAK/STRUT TOP BUSHING AS WELL AS LEFT BEING THE SAME
LF LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING GOING BAD AND 4 TIRES.

DEALERS SERVICE SAID THEY FIXED DRIVER SIDE MOUNT/FRONT CENTER MOUNT, REAR SWAY BAR LINKS AND MISCELLANEOUS OTHER THINGS NOT RELATED TO THE ISSUE.
]I DID NOTICE REAR WHEEL BEARING WAS WRITTEN BUT DOESNT SAY IF THEY DID OR DIDNT DO IT.

IM LOST AND COULD USE HELP ON WHERE TO START.

ALSO TIRES ARE UNDER A YEAR OLD BUT LEFT REAR SIDE WALL HAS A LITTLE LUMP, FRONT LEFT CALIPER WAS REPLACED AS WELL AS BRAKES.

 

Usually, high speed shakes come from incorrect alignment and/or wheel weights. If you'd mentioned vibrations while braking, i'd say warped disks. Also, please go make sure all your lug nuts are torqued to spec by hand.

 

not when braking and rotors are good. it went away overnight again and then within 20 miles it came back.

tire discounters said i need struts which i knew, front engine mount which i knew also but they said lower ball joints lower control arms and sway bar links.

i personally looked at the car and sure there getting there but i dont understand why it would come and go. when it quit doing it the car is straight as an arrow, no pull nothing.

i just cant comprehend why after i put axles in, it stopped but after 20-30 miles it was back. its done it twice now after sitting overnight it smoothed out.


struts wouldnt cause this would it? is sounds like a drum beating bc of the struts but i cant imagine bad struts would cause the issues im having

 

Again, double check that your lug nuts are all torqued properly. Any Pep Boys will be able to accurately balance your wheels.

 

LUGS ARE TIGHTENED UP TO SPEC. FRONT MOTOR MOUNT IS BAD AS WELL. DROVE IT TODAY AND THE TREMORS WERE GONE. EVERYONE KEEPS SAYING STRUTS. i JUST CANT IMAGINE THOSE CAUSE SUCH VIOLENT TREMORS I HAVE TO STAY OFF THE HIGHWAY.

IDK IM JUST LOST OVER THIS. 4 DIFFERENT PLACES AND NOT ONE PERSON COULD GIVE ME AN ACCURATE ANSWER

 

Your struts are an integral part of your suspension and steering, they could cause intense vibrations if worn out or improperly installed. After market engine mounts wear much faster than oem ones do. A bad motor mount coupled with worn struts at higher speeds or when the motor is at a higher rpm's, the could easily begin to vibrate or shake.