After lots of troubleshooting on my air conditioner (AC) system, I became convinced my climate control module (this thing) was the source of my troubles:



Any time the inside of the car was hot, the AC would not work – this was inconvenient.

There are already some detailed resources out there about how to do this, but I feel like they all leave some important details out. This thread is going to try to cover all the relevant details and make it as easy as possible for you to remove the panel/module for repair.

NOTE: what I am referring to as the Climate Control Module, the FSM calls the Heater Control Panel. Just so I do not have to keep typing climate control module/heater control panel, I will simply use “CCM/HCP”, okay?

 

Here are some threads I looked at previously when I prepared myself for this repair:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-dash-2995589/ This was a nice thread with lots of good pictures. This thread has you try to separate the heater cable from the CCM/HCP while it still in the dash – this is difficult!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-no-no-661308/ This thread turned me on to the idea of disconnecting the heater cable from under the glove box and removing the cable from the dash with the CCM/HCP – I liked that idea better! I just read Page 1. I had no need to read 38 more pages about changing the color of your bulbs. Maybe there is more valuable content, but I think I got the low hanging fruit.

I stumbled across this video, and it made a lot of ideas “click” for me: In this video, instead of trying to disconnect the CCM/HCP from the harness in the car, they go in from underneath the stereo and disconnect the pig-tail harness and remove the CCM/HCP with the connectors on the back still connected – MUCH easier! And you don’t have to remove the bezel around the speedo cluster. I am not sure what market this vehicle is from, but it has a 3rd connector that my EG hatch did not have. Their CCM/HCP looked a little different as well – there was no mix of red and blue on the front for heat vs. unheated air. This might be why they did not have to disconnect a heater cable in the video, maybe the Civics in this market have no heater core? The console under the dash looked different as well, but the Civic was left-hand drive. Anyway, this video was important to me in my preparation.

 

So, let us begin, shall we?

First, remove the console under the stereo that contains the ash tray and lighter for your smokes. There are 4 screws: 2 under the stereo, and 2 on the sides.




Then disconnect the harness for the lighter.

 

Once you have moved the console out of the way, you are ready to disconnect 2 connectors that are located behind the console and under the stereo.

Be CAREFUL! The metal brackets have lots of sharp, unfinished edges. I am used to a few scrapes and cuts when working on cars, but on this project, I shed more blood than usual. I had to stop once to wipe some blood off the interior, and then I noticed a bit of blood and saw one finger was covered in blood so I had to stop again and go put on a band-aid.

First – disconnect this big connector. The locking tab is facing out, towards you. These are tight. A little screwdriver can help you separate.




Second – look up above the connector you just dealt with and there is a smaller connector to separate (upper left of 1st picture). The locking tab is facing down, so it is very accessible for you.



Last – you need to free this harness. There is a small gray fastener locked into the metal bracket, and the connector itself is locked into the floor vents with an orange fastener.

 

Next, disconnect the cable for the heater valve. It is under the dash, on the passenger side.

You do not need to remove the glove box. I did, thinking it would make things easier. I think I got more room to move around, and it forced me to clean out my glovebox. I had some Tylenol in there that expired years ago!



Slide the cable housing out of the retaining clip. Then you can slide the cable down the post, and it will be free.



Note how the cable is routed under the dash – you will need to re-create that routing in the future!

 

Remove your stereo and mounting cage (if applicable).

 

There are 3 Philips head screws holding the CCM/HCP into the vehicle. The easiest one to access is in the back, center. In this picture it has already been removed:



The next 2 are tricky, but not impossible! I used this little tool at the end of a ¼” extension. I had to put the hand-held Phillips into the stereo cavity and then run the extension up through the dash. I started out with 2 extensions, and then changed it up to just run the longest one extension. (When I was getting these pictures together I noticed the bloody paper towel in the background – be careful – that sheet metal can bite!)






Putting these screws back in can take some patience!

 

Now start fishing the CCM/HCP out of the dash. It is a snug fit. Just go slow, take your time. You can do it!



The wiring harness still connected to the CCM/HCP may need some help from you coming out. Those wires have been in the same position for years! The harness is in a ribbed protector that will catch on metal edges. Just reach behind the CCM/HCP and guide the wiring out, and next thing you know, you will have it free!

 

If you want, you can disconnect the harness now that the CCM/HCP is out of your Civic. There is no way I would want to try to disconnect those while the unit was still in the dash.

 

Next up – taking apart the CCM/HCP for inspection and repair!

Repair thread: Repairing Heater Control Panel/Climate Control Module from EG (’92-’95) Civic