So I recently bought a 94 civic dx automatic. Long story but rebuilt the head and put new head gasket on torqued everything, marked everything. Doing the same thing before I took it apart. Crank no start, has fuel and spark. New cap,rotor, ngk plugs, also new fuel filter which I primed. I can smell and see fuel on the new plugs. Before taking it apart I went to check the codes and back probed the freaking data link connector like an idiot and seen a small spark. I continued on, checked the light through 2 wire connector ( the correct one). Code 16 was only one still showing but srs light constantly flashed after backprobing the data link connector. After completing the rebuild on the head and new head gasket she cranks but no start still after all these new parts, ugh. Checked the engine light today after cranking on it but had the battery disconnected due to fixing the blown head gasket and leaking valve seals, only shows srs light flashing continuously and now check engine light stays on with a solid light no flashes. Car sounds like it detinates after cranking it for 1 and half to 2 seconds almost like it cuts out and bogs down. Like it did before doing this job. This is my car thank god. It ran for a week when I got it but started smoking white out of the exhaust like my other civics did when the head gasket went and used all the coolant in no time. Any help I would greatly appreciate! I’m wondering if I fried the ecu? I’m going to check all fuses. I hear the main relay click when key is turned on under steering wheel and hear the fuel pump cycle on. Thanks

 

Maybe try a full ecu reset i believe you disconnect the battery then pull the ecu fuse and backup fuse under the hood and wait a bit.

Compression wet and dry?
Did you check mechanical timing?
Does the dizzy point to 1 at TDC?
Did you mark the Dizzy and put it back to same ignition timing as before?

 

Compression test the cylinders and also verify that the fuel pump primes and that all spark plugs have spark.

Also check whether the spark plug wires are installed in the correct firing order on the distributor cap.

 

A code 16 would indicate either an unplugged fuel injector, bad fuel injector or bad injector driver/drivers inside the ECU. After you do a compression test as muellersfan suggested, start looking into what your code was. Since you sparked the data link plug, there is a distinct possibility that you let the "magic smoke" out of the ECU and it is damaged. Trying another "known good" ECU isn't a bad idea.

 

Hey guys. Yes I marked the dizzy put it all back how it was. I can hear the fuel pump come on every time I put the key to the run position, this is my 3rd head gasket job on these single cams. But the first one with the distributor the other 2 civics had coil packs. I will check the fuses now and do compression test on her. I’m so bummed out about this I took my time with everything. Going to break out the power probe. I need to get a regular volt/ ohm meter. I have the power probe 3ez. It does all kinds of good stuff. Still learning with it though. Also have spark on all cylinders and fuel is on the spark plugs after pulling them out yesterday. Firing order is 1342. How do you tell if number 1 cylinder is lined up with number 1 wire on the dizzy?

 

Rotate the crank pulley to TDC and make sure that the cam gear is also at TDC. Remove your distributor cap and check to see if the rotor button is pointed at the same location as the #1 spark plug wire is on the cap. If it is, you are good on your firing order. If it isn't, move the #1 spark plug wire to the pin matching the rotor button position and place the other three wires clock-wise from there on the cap. As you stated, the firing order is 1 -> 3 -> 4 -> 2.

 

Ok I will look at this next. I should have known that. Been awhile since I have worked on anything with a dizzy. Thanks for refreshing my memory. I got a message from Honda tech from one of the main guys but I don’t see it on here. He stated that the code 16 that I had which is no longer showing up because when I use the paper clip to check the codes It’s only showing a solid check engine light staying on an SRS light flashing. He stated that code 16 is in unplugged fuel injector or bad fuel injector, And very possibly the ECU. I have another EC you but it’s for a manual transmission 92 to 95. This is an automatic. I thought code 16 when I looked it up last was for the speed sensor?

 

When the engine cranks but won't start and code 16 is also thrown, the issue is typically a bad main relay or a problem with the main relay circuit.

 

My bad you bud it was code 17 that was on in the past. With is not showing anymore. I still have not got the car running. It started once after retarding the timing as far back as I could go. Putted for about 3 seconds and died. My engine timing was slightly off. Set the engine timing on point and at TDC which is right after the intake valve closes. Cylinder number 1 valves are completely shut like supposed to be. Dizzy checks out good rotor button points at top left wich nimber one wire is pointed to on the cap. And so on clockwise is 342
13
>Coil (dizzy)
24 . Cranks over good have spark and fuel
found 1 fuse blown witch was interior light ignition beeps with key on now after replacing that fuse.
When checking the codes I have solid check engine light and srs light constantly flashes. I paper clipped the data link connector don’tforget and seen a small spark. Would I still have spark and fuel if a messed up the ecu from papper clip the wrong connector 3 wire DLC??? I’m so pissed after doing alll this work and still no start.

 

Compression test all four cylinders. If fine, check whether the engine will start if you you spray starting fluid into the throttle body.

 

So I did a compression test dry and wet test. They both were close all 175 180 except cylinder 1 wich is at 80 to 90 psi. Before doing the head gasket they were all close to 180. Only thing I could think of that messed that cylinder up would have been when I used a helicoil on that cylinder. Have injector pulse to I found out. It should still start and run like ****?

 

One dead cylinder could cause a no-start.

Do a cylinder leak down test to determine where compression is lost by cylinder 1.

 

What color wires should be going to map sensor? Pretty sure I have them right but just want to double check . I put a teaspoon of oil and cylinder one on top of the piston re-checked it again and it was almost at 120 that time.
I notic

Map?

Second pic is tps wire hopefully they are in correct order.
ed the throttle position sensor and the map sensor about three wire sensors with both 5 V coming out of the connector.

 

Does the engine start after adding oil to cylinder 1?

The MAP sensor and TPS connectors are correct.

 

No I tried that also. I’m wondering if I should pull the head back off and see if I notice a crack in the head in that area. I’m so bummed out about this car.

 

Cranks fast

 

 

I have to get a cylinder leak down tester. From what I have been reading, it sounds like I’m going to need a new Ecu. Still when I go to check the codes , the check engine light remains on solid and srs light flashes. I’m going to buy a reman ecu and see what happens, or if I get luck find a cheap used automatic one and try to run with that. At least I will be able to rule that out.

 

Forget about the ECU until you figure out where compression is lost. Otherwise, you could spend money for an ECU to run a dead engine. Make sense?

 

It’s either on the intake valve or exhaust. I tapped the spark plug while out with one of those heliocoil kits. I’m thinking it opened it up to close near valve seat. It looked fine when I put it back together. Plus I was a tooth or to out on the cam gear. I got my timing all set perfect. Still no start. I will have to do another test on cylinder 1 But I know that both valves were closed on cylinder one I did the adjustment correcting everything on the valves and double checked my work. I have heard these things will run on 2 1/2 cylinders and I have three cylinders at 180 And number one cylinder was at 120 with a teaspoon of oil on top of the piston. So if it’s still low lik that I’m sure it’s going to need A good head. I have to either make a cylinder leak down test tool or buy one.