Enlighten me on brake rotors
I am going to need to either get my rotors turned, or get new rotors... I was thinking that I may as well just get some Comptech cross drilled rotors, or some powerslot slotted rotors... What is anyone's experience with upgraded brakes? I don't wanna do a big brake kit yet... cuz I wanna do wheels and then get huge brakes.
Rotors are rotors, brake pads are going to make the difference. Autozone sells rotors for between $25-$30 each and that is all you really need. Then just choose a good brake pad for your driving needs.
Don't turn them, this weakens them more and makes them even more prone to warpage soon after.
Most everyone here will suggest you stay with the stock size and I must agree, a less expensive alternative to OEM rotors is a set of Brembo Blanks from Autozone, owners of these may list the part# because I'll need a set soon as well.
Cross drilled are designed for outgassing, cooling of rotors,
Slotted are for shedding pad dust, debris, and crud,
Neither are neccessary for the ITR as a daily driver, regular Autocrosser or occasional even track driver PDA or HPDE. You'll never punish the rotors enough with street applications to warrent these upgrades.
Autocross and Track may be different stories. Autocross still doesn't really warrent either rotor nor upgraded pads for that matter, the stock ITR brakes are simply Great.
As for occasional track or driving schools, then you may want to upgrade to race compound pads but even then you can still run stock, in the beginning as a novice until you get a feel for the car and begin to push it to it's limits.
The Stock brake rotors work absolutely awesomely with the proper pads as per the application. Depending on your level of experience and competition you may Not need to upgrade the brakes At All...
Don't waste money changing things that are nearly perfect to begin with.
IMHO of course, and if my comments need any correction or elaboration then feel free,,,
A.
Most everyone here will suggest you stay with the stock size and I must agree, a less expensive alternative to OEM rotors is a set of Brembo Blanks from Autozone, owners of these may list the part# because I'll need a set soon as well.
Cross drilled are designed for outgassing, cooling of rotors,
Slotted are for shedding pad dust, debris, and crud,
Neither are neccessary for the ITR as a daily driver, regular Autocrosser or occasional even track driver PDA or HPDE. You'll never punish the rotors enough with street applications to warrent these upgrades.
Autocross and Track may be different stories. Autocross still doesn't really warrent either rotor nor upgraded pads for that matter, the stock ITR brakes are simply Great.
As for occasional track or driving schools, then you may want to upgrade to race compound pads but even then you can still run stock, in the beginning as a novice until you get a feel for the car and begin to push it to it's limits.
The Stock brake rotors work absolutely awesomely with the proper pads as per the application. Depending on your level of experience and competition you may Not need to upgrade the brakes At All...
Don't waste money changing things that are nearly perfect to begin with.
IMHO of course, and if my comments need any correction or elaboration then feel free,,,
A.
Anton I have to disagree, the statement "Don't turn them, this weakens them more and makes them even more prone to warpage soon after".
When I worked at a auto shop we used to get brand new rotors of all different brands and they were put on cars thinking that they should be good.
Well surprise to the the shop and I they needed to be cut.
OK here is my point sometimes brand new are not true and from all the rotors I have had to cut on my own cars in the past not one has ever warpped due to the resurfacing/cuttin/turnning, what does cause the warpping is the improper amount of TQ on the lug nuts or rather not appliying the same amount to all in the pattern which will prevent warps.
When I worked at a auto shop we used to get brand new rotors of all different brands and they were put on cars thinking that they should be good.
Well surprise to the the shop and I they needed to be cut.
OK here is my point sometimes brand new are not true and from all the rotors I have had to cut on my own cars in the past not one has ever warpped due to the resurfacing/cuttin/turnning, what does cause the warpping is the improper amount of TQ on the lug nuts or rather not appliying the same amount to all in the pattern which will prevent warps.
i always turn my rotor using an "on car brake lathe"
it give the rotors a true cut because you dont even need to take them off of the hub.
it give the rotors a true cut because you dont even need to take them off of the hub.
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OH, so my whole point is cut your rotors if needed and be sure to TQ them right.
I can understand turning them for true from the offset with new rotors and I won't disagree with you altogether but, from what I've learned, "no not just from the net," and again I could be totally wrong is just what I posted but, what I posted related to an already warped rotor in current use.
I have heard that after their being turned because of warpage that they are more prone to warping again. Especially under severe usage. I have also experienced this in one of my older Teg's, though I cannot confirm that they actually torqued the nuts after turning the rotors. What I can confrim is that the rotor's soon after became warped after about 2 weeks of regular commuting and spirited driving, "and No competitive drving."
Again hence the "IMHO"
I also do agree that Torquing the lugnuts to avoid uneven wear and future warping is Key. This is one of the FIRST things I learned soon after I started autocrossing with the boys.
Thanks Rob,
A.
For people who auto-x or track their car, rotors definitely become a "fast-wearing" wear item. If you dont want to spend the money on honda parts, then the AutoZone route is the best for you.
Personally, I would enjoy the rotors 10 times more knowing I paid a lot less for them than I would have at the factory.
Personally, I would enjoy the rotors 10 times more knowing I paid a lot less for them than I would have at the factory.
Does anyone have a part number for the Autozone brake rotors?
[Modified by Rguy, 11:30 AM 11/16/2002]
I don't see any point in turning ITR rotors when new ones are $25 at Autozone and other places.
let me just toss this up in the air and not directed at anyone.
IF you spend $50 on new rotors fine, you have new rotors and toss away metal that could be recycled. And could be un-true still- never will know with out cutting then on a machine.
Now if you took your rotors off and had them cut by a place it would only cost you $20 and now you have an extra $30 to spend on a nice lunch, also the difference of what is being shaved off your rotor is alot less then the 2 or 3 mm compared to buying legend/non-ITR rotors. Also you will know that your rotors are true.
Also no extra metal thats not being wasted.
just some thoughts, and are not aimed at anyone.
IF you spend $50 on new rotors fine, you have new rotors and toss away metal that could be recycled. And could be un-true still- never will know with out cutting then on a machine.
Now if you took your rotors off and had them cut by a place it would only cost you $20 and now you have an extra $30 to spend on a nice lunch, also the difference of what is being shaved off your rotor is alot less then the 2 or 3 mm compared to buying legend/non-ITR rotors. Also you will know that your rotors are true.
Also no extra metal thats not being wasted.
just some thoughts, and are not aimed at anyone.
Anton: X-Drilled have a marginal cooling ability (read: basically nonexistant) over solid rotors.. and provide less thermal mass to dissipate heat from the pads.. pads will stay at higher temps and therefore shoot up to even higher temps, when it gets hot enough, they'll fade. (sooner than blanks of course).
Slotted? On a car that doesn't race on the dirt? why?
Slotted? On a car that doesn't race on the dirt? why?
erm.. sorry if this is a stupid question
my brakes are squeaking like crazy lately, before they are warmed up. would changing the rotors fix this rather annoying problem?
my brakes are squeaking like crazy lately, before they are warmed up. would changing the rotors fix this rather annoying problem?
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From: DEEP IN THE HEART OF TEXAS AND COLORADO
erm.. sorry if this is a stupid question
my brakes are squeaking like crazy lately, before they are warmed up. would changing the rotors fix this rather annoying problem?
my brakes are squeaking like crazy lately, before they are warmed up. would changing the rotors fix this rather annoying problem?
I also don't see any point in fancy rotors, considering that the Honda Challenge was won this year on Autozone rotors.
"Autozone rotors: The race-proven choice of champions!"
We need to get Autozone to sponsor the ECHC.
hahaha, thats a different story George, IF they could be resurfaced I would do it but some of those pics Will puts up are just scary! and of course new would be better, but for the average smuck resurface is just fine.
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