BUILT KNOCKING B18B1
I have a B18B1 that has eagle rods and after market pistons for boost. The guy i bough it from said it was built at Abacus racing in VA about 6 years ago and the oil pan was tapped for a turbo return line and leaked and started knocking. He said he pulled over and had it towed and swapped it out with a GSR and never got around to rebuilding it, he did say one journal on the crank was wiped out. So he threw in another crank and a box full of parts including the old pistons and rods.
What needs to be checked as far as rebuilding this one for boost? Just want to get it running again nothing crazy as it already has rods and pistons and the head was factory rebuilt looks brand new aside from where the oil leaked out.
I am ordering an engine stand and then will begin tear down // inspection
What needs to be checked as far as rebuilding this one for boost? Just want to get it running again nothing crazy as it already has rods and pistons and the head was factory rebuilt looks brand new aside from where the oil leaked out.
I am ordering an engine stand and then will begin tear down // inspection
Last edited by somalia757; Oct 11, 2020 at 07:29 PM.
Assuming the extra crankshaft is in good shape, you will lay this into the existing block and replace the main and rod bearings with proper ones to match the block and crank markings. If the original knocking rod is discolored or the bearing has damaged the bearing surface, you will need to re-size the rod at minimum... you may want to replace the set of rods if it is too damaged. Post a pic of the rod big end here and let's take a look.
Appreciate the reply, currently waiting on the engine stand to arrive. I gotcha, well I guess we will see whats salvageable. Hoping to be able to save the rod. I am guessing the machine shop can re-size the rod??
I have re built and engine way back in 2009 so its been forever. I did order a book on re building the b series so I can have a step by step guide.
This EF I picked up has a knock also but it sounds like its from the head. So I thought it would be a little faster to find another engine out of the car already if I could to make the turn around time a bit faster to get the car drivable again. Found this one for $200
I have re built and engine way back in 2009 so its been forever. I did order a book on re building the b series so I can have a step by step guide.
This EF I picked up has a knock also but it sounds like its from the head. So I thought it would be a little faster to find another engine out of the car already if I could to make the turn around time a bit faster to get the car drivable again. Found this one for $200
Got the head of tonight after work. Going to check the bottom end another night still waiting on the stand. Working on this in the ground kills my back!!
Not sure if the block can be saved, crank is done and this rod is shot.
Already picked up a new crank and going to see about the block being saved when I talk to the machine shop tomorrow.
Already picked up a new crank and going to see about the block being saved when I talk to the machine shop tomorrow.
Assuming the extra crankshaft is in good shape, you will lay this into the existing block and replace the main and rod bearings with proper ones to match the block and crank markings. If the original knocking rod is discolored or the bearing has damaged the bearing surface, you will need to re-size the rod at minimum... you may want to replace the set of rods if it is too damaged. Post a pic of the rod big end here and let's take a look.
Trending Topics
Were there thrust bearings in the engine ? The deep gouge in the flywheel side of the #4 main bearing journal doesn't look good. The first thing I would do is see if you can get the correct free-play measurement in that block using the replacement crankshaft and a fresh set of OE thrust shims. If so, then the block is OK. If there is too much movement/thrust... the block is trashed, unless a machine shop can weld up and re-machine the thrust shim pocket to get the gaps correct.
You might be able to re-size the rod, but that would change the rod length a few thousandths and reduce compression in that cylinder a bit... not optimum for an engine you want to run proper. Replace the rods (Eagle **** is cheap anyway... there are plenty of $375 rod sets to get you back in the game correctly), use OE Honda bearings and get it right.
You might be able to re-size the rod, but that would change the rod length a few thousandths and reduce compression in that cylinder a bit... not optimum for an engine you want to run proper. Replace the rods (Eagle **** is cheap anyway... there are plenty of $375 rod sets to get you back in the game correctly), use OE Honda bearings and get it right.
Dropped it off at the machine shop today. They said the block can be salvaged, they also said I could re use the rod if I was on a budget but ima get a new rod, found one for $100 new.
they are gonna polish the crank and balance it and hone the block and clean it up and measure everything. Then Ima get it back and assemble it.
they are gonna polish the crank and balance it and hone the block and clean it up and measure everything. Then Ima get it back and assemble it.






