2002 honda accord 2.3 motor F23A1
OK not sure where to start. Just replaced head gasket drive about 600 miles or so all good. Seems like it's in safe mode. Oil was low maybe that caused it? Won't hardly go past 60 an hard to get to shift out of 3rd just below drive. And when it does it still won't go much over 60 if that.
Tried pulling back up fuse am another that was I thought ecm. I did get service light to go out but still safe mode. Trans has about 60,000 in rebuild. Have not pulled any codes yet. Seen one bid about changing timing but have not tried that yet. Any thoughts what's going on?
Tried pulling back up fuse am another that was I thought ecm. I did get service light to go out but still safe mode. Trans has about 60,000 in rebuild. Have not pulled any codes yet. Seen one bid about changing timing but have not tried that yet. Any thoughts what's going on?
Check the codes and go from there.
The 96 and up Accords do not have adjustable timing/distributors. The ignition timing is controlled completely by the ECU and ignition control module (ICM/Ignitor). If the timing was off by a tooth on the timing belt, it would be rough throughout the RPM's.
The 96 and up Accords do not have adjustable timing/distributors. The ignition timing is controlled completely by the ECU and ignition control module (ICM/Ignitor). If the timing was off by a tooth on the timing belt, it would be rough throughout the RPM's.
Agreed, get the scan of the codes. Limp home mode is very broad. It could be 02 sensors, a/f, who knows. Also look for the leaks, low fluid for no reason doesn't exist. Burning it or losing it somewhere.
Not sure about the OBDII 2002 Accords. I know you can with the OBDII 96-97 Accords. They have a 2 pin connector located under the glove box that you can perform the piper clip code retrieval method on. I have also seen in passing that you might be able to short 2 of the wires on the OBDII connector to get the CEL to flash. I'd have to google it.
For this and other items, you will want a scanner, they are not expensive. $20 for either a scanner or a bluetooth scanner that you can use with your phone. companies like Fixd make them.
OK not sure where to start. Just replaced head gasket drive about 600 miles or so all good. Seems like it's in safe mode. Oil was low maybe that caused it? Won't hardly go past 60 an hard to get to shift out of 3rd just below drive. And when it does it still won't go much over 60 if that.
Tried pulling back up fuse am another that was I thought ecm. I did get service light to go out but still safe mode. Trans has about 60,000 in rebuild. Have not pulled any codes yet. Seen one bid about changing timing but have not tried that yet. Any thoughts what's going on?
Tried pulling back up fuse am another that was I thought ecm. I did get service light to go out but still safe mode. Trans has about 60,000 in rebuild. Have not pulled any codes yet. Seen one bid about changing timing but have not tried that yet. Any thoughts what's going on?
Not sure where to update try here 1st
Knoxk sensor is one code but I've had it since about when I've replaced the motor an was told the intake an exhaust doesn't match the motor 10 years ago driving since.
Only. Other code was P1167
Trending Topics
P1167 is the heater circuit of the sensor. It will usually be due to a faulty A/F ratio sensor, unless there was a short or open (break) in the wiring, or blown driver's side Fuse No. 6.
Unlikely to be blown no. 6 fuse, since if that fuse was blown, you would having issues with many other things like alternator not charging, gauge issues, etc.
Unlikely to be blown no. 6 fuse, since if that fuse was blown, you would having issues with many other things like alternator not charging, gauge issues, etc.
Just to be sure, did you reset the ECU after you did the sensor swap? Disconnect the negative battery cable (Pull the ECU fuse No.6) for a couple minutes.
Cleaning these sensors will not help with a heater circuit error. Cleaning them is kind of like snake oil.... there really isn't much you can do to clean the actual sensor behind the shield.
As far as the heater circuit goes, if you have replaced the sensor and reset the ECU with no fix. You can troubleshoot the heater circuit and see if maybe there is a short or cut in the wire. That being said, a failed heater circuit wouldn't put your engine in limp mode.
When you hit that wall at 60, where it seems as though it's in limp mode, does your check engine light flash? That would point to an ignition or fuel misfire issue.
Cleaning these sensors will not help with a heater circuit error. Cleaning them is kind of like snake oil.... there really isn't much you can do to clean the actual sensor behind the shield.
As far as the heater circuit goes, if you have replaced the sensor and reset the ECU with no fix. You can troubleshoot the heater circuit and see if maybe there is a short or cut in the wire. That being said, a failed heater circuit wouldn't put your engine in limp mode.
When you hit that wall at 60, where it seems as though it's in limp mode, does your check engine light flash? That would point to an ignition or fuel misfire issue.
Just to be sure, did you reset the ECU after you did the sensor swap? Disconnect the negative battery cable (Pull the ECU fuse No.6) for a couple minutes.
Cleaning these sensors will not help with a heater circuit error. Cleaning them is kind of like snake oil.... there really isn't much you can do to clean the actual sensor behind the shield.
As far as the heater circuit goes, if you have replaced the sensor and reset the ECU with no fix. You can troubleshoot the heater circuit and see if maybe there is a short or cut in the wire. That being said, a failed heater circuit wouldn't put your engine in limp mode.
When you hit that wall at 60, where it seems as though it's in limp mode, does your check engine light flash? That would point to an ignition or fuel misfire issue.
Cleaning these sensors will not help with a heater circuit error. Cleaning them is kind of like snake oil.... there really isn't much you can do to clean the actual sensor behind the shield.
As far as the heater circuit goes, if you have replaced the sensor and reset the ECU with no fix. You can troubleshoot the heater circuit and see if maybe there is a short or cut in the wire. That being said, a failed heater circuit wouldn't put your engine in limp mode.
When you hit that wall at 60, where it seems as though it's in limp mode, does your check engine light flash? That would point to an ignition or fuel misfire issue.
I'll check an see what it does when trying to pass. It does seem a little better as far a going faster. But not like before yet.
Thanks
Update
When I floor it like to pass it seems to limit out on RPM's an down shift like shut down? Doesn't go any faster I k ow that's kinda vague
Just down shifts an stalls?
Last edited by stacy zimmerman; Oct 6, 2020 at 02:55 AM. Reason: Update






