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1998 civic hatch dx tranny check engine code P 1706
Not shifting great, resists quite a bit from park to drive but then easier once free of the park zone. Seems like there is some hesitation or delay sometimes too...
check engine light on and codes popped up as P1706 A/T GEAR No Position. THE LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON THE DASH WHEN IT IS IN DRIVE BUT DOES FOR OTHER gears. Sorry bout caps there...big thumbs...
googled a bit and wondered if it was the shift cable had become a bit bound inside somewhere. Then when in gear easier to shift to neutral, reverse, etc. havent crawled under yet. Will it leak AT fluid if i go after the cable? Is there other things to check or think of first?
it has codes for MAP sensor and two identical or idle air control system. Two of the P0505...? Just being emphatic? So i managed to pull that and am going to clean it and try to find a new gasket for it. Old one has some white stuff on the non coolant side which looks a bit odd...
any help very much appreciated This is the iacv waiting for me to go get some cleaner spray.
!
Thank you, this sounds like solid advice...but...i want to try one little mini fix to see if the tranny code goes away. Watched a good youtube video on how to replace a trans cable for an automatic civic but it was a little different. I have the dx d16y7 automatic hatch and i want to try to take the little cover off in front under the car where the cable goes in amd see if i can hit the “bendy part” with some penetrating oil a few times, wipe it down and put some silicone spray on there and see if the shifting from park to reverse loosens back up. Not a long term fix but the dude said he used to do this and it would work for about 6 months! Not too shabby.
figured i could do that while i was waiting for a ride to the auto parts store to get the cleaning sprays. So...any advice on how to do that on my model would be very appreciated. Which side to jack up and such. Days like this i wish i had a lift...!😀
And cleaning the map sensor...does it need to be electrical parts cleaner, that sensitive? Do you brush it with a toothbrush or just spritz and drip it out and dry?
Yeah it is real stiff in pulling out of park to reverse. I did forge ahead and removed the end of the cable and...it moves freely. So i threw a rubber glove over it and dropped the car and tried to move the shifter with one end off and it is still very sticky going from park into reverse, and then going back into park. So it seems the cable is the issue. Perhaps the binding cable threw off the sensors? Im trying to get brave to remove it but havent seen a good write up on it. Was going t9 get the cleaners for the sensors tonight but lost my mojo. Feeling down that my guess was wrong about the far end of the trrnny cable. The plate over it did seem to ave a gap and there was some crap inside where th cable end was. A little Sand and grime...
Replace the cable? Seems like a good idea. The end with the hingey bit seems to move freely but i still have a lot of resistance going from oark to reverse and back...with it detached! Which seems to mean the canle is sticking badly somewhere else, for some reason...so i kniw the code is electrical but since the cable is bad anyways, replace right? Now...how!?
and go new or junkyard used?. Looking at autoparts parts there seem to be many different length cables and i read someone put one in that was a little off and niw they cant put it in park! Key is stuck in ignition. Maybe they can adjust it to fix...
. but the length for my cable? Can i know now or do i need to remove the other and match them up. Do they have to be exact or can adjustments take care of a 1/2 inch difference or so?
thanks!
This is what im see8ng so far. Is the whote thing the A/T code reason? There is a lot of dirt in here for being under plastic but...i am realizing it is mouse turds. Car had been sitting for a while. Maybe those little bastards chewed on the cable too? Ugh...feel like im making progress but im kinda nervous about the next part
With your help, luck, and the grace of an old craftsman floor jack i got the trans cable out. Moves ok but a real frictionny hitch in last inch of movement. It would jam there and take great effort to get it past. Autozone dont got em. So i figure i will have to tru junkyard, dealer, or internet...
so in the meantime, i oticed the travel is about 3.5 inches or so and there is a barrel at each end. The cable seems to have a round ball type piece that helps it stop at the end of each barrel. I. Oticed a line on the rubber flex piece and pulled off the rubber cover and worked some grease in there. Then at each end and forced a bunch of grease in, and then worked it back and forth and it slowly got better and better. Still a minor hitch but nothing like before just a hiccup really now. Jammed in some more and will Let it sleep like i should do then i will check it again and...maybe put it back in? Crazy?? I cant remember how the front part goes on...any clues? There is a hinge part that i think goes down but maybe it will make sense when im flat on my back.
i figure i should probably get another one but...is it that crazy to at least hook it up and see it it works ok now? Are those barrels supposed to be greasy? I stuffed grease into the flex rubber part too cuz it looked a little like a cv joint...reminds me one of mine is ripped... 😳😔
Following up: Stuck it back in there with the grease crammed in as best as i could and seems fine. A little hitchy but so much better and not getting stuck anyplace. Now i have to try to remember how to put the cover and parts back and find all those little screws...
wish the dashboard light for drive lit up, the other lights do so when the light is out 8 know itnis in drive...probably a little bulb...ugh!
Last edited by tommy boy2; Mar 13, 2021 at 03:23 AM.
Reason: Revise