Hello everybody, I’ll get to the skinny of it and explain that essentially I want y’all to weigh in on whether y’all think I got dooped or not. I’ve been building this turbo civic for almost a year now and finally got it finished up and tuned. Long story short I basically followed different forums on here and humble performances build guise along with tips from several YouTube channels aiming for a 500hp build. After finishing the build and it sitting at the tuner for almost two months and a nasty relationship with him I put down 373hp at 23psi. I was thinking more like 500hp at a max of 25 psi. I will put my build and y’all tel me what you think.


B18A1 Block
nippon Forged pistons
scat forged rods
arp rods bolts
arp rod bearings
arp main bearings
B16 PR3 head
webb custom grind cams
ferrea valves
skunk2 titanium springs and retainers
skunk2 lost motion assembly
arp head studs
competition clutch stage 4
stock intake manifold
aem fuel rail
aem adjustable fpr
1000cc ID injectors
dw400 fuel pump
Skunk2 4bar map
custom stainless top mount manifold
gt35 61/82 turbo
billet 75a motor mounts

Based on this build I was really close to humble’s 500hp build and boosted boiz proven power package, the only difference I had was the cams. They are a custom grind for which I can attach the photo of the info I have on them. I was planning on using slunk2 pro cams for the build but got these instead, that is the only reason I can tell as to why I’m not making the power I thought I would. What’s your guys thoughts? Thankyou

 

What fuel are you running and what is your base fuel pressure set at? If you are running E85, you may be close to maxing out the 1000cc injectors. I saw 99% duty cycle on E85 at 401 whp with ID1000's (D16Z6, though).

I'm not very knowledgeable on cams, but maybe your cam is too big for the application?

FYI, Nippon does not make a forged piston - they are cast. And I think you mean ACL bearings, not ARP?

 

The wrong cams can **** you faster than an ex-wife in court. These are a big part of your build and if not properly paired with the turbo you're choosing, can easily make that 125whp deficit you're seeing.

 

What compression pistons did you go with? Not so sure about using a cast piston, most tuners don’t like pushing the limits of a cast piston. I don’t know what scat rods are rated for either? I’ve not seen anyone here using them. As the other said, the cams are important and can cause more issues than they are worth if not done correctly. I had over 20 hours in degreeing my cams and tuning them

 

Wow that's crazy I made 650whp on ID1000's at 99% duty cycle on E85. I'm guessing it's the difference between D and B.

 

Hmmm. Maybe it's time to have mine flowed? Or maybe it is just the difference between D and B.

 

I think ID also had a flow chart and the fuel pump or number of fuel pumps being used were a factor as well. When I was on 4 ID1000's I was also on a walbro 255 and an inline bosch 044 with -8 fuel line. I then jumped to dual 044's and 8 ID's to get about 950whp.

 

if DAX was setup for race and not a daily driver I bet he would be close to 500whp

 

What's the dyno graph itself look like? I myself learned a cam change alone can yield a big power difference. My situation swapping between cams gained me like 65whp or so.

 

Ditch the cams for some ITR/Tuner1s/GSR. At that duration at .050 it’s possible your losing some of that boost out of the tail pipe. I made 375 on a smaller turbo at less boost on my old GSR (piston and rod engine). You “should” be making more power with that size turbo. Not quite sure you’ll get there without e85 though. Post your dyno graph if you have it. I’m curious to see what RPM your turbo comes in at since it’s a 35r with a top mount. Also, what kind of turbo is it? And are you by chance able to go in and see what your ignition tables are? I’m also wondering how conservative your timing is.

also, you can see pretty drastic differences in the dyno as well. If it’s an inertia only or eddy current. If for the final pull all the resistance on the rollers were reduced. There’s a lot of things to play here if that makes sense.

 

Many times power loss is due to charge air leakage. Do a pre-turbo to butterfly pressure leakdown test with an air compressor(google it) before changing anything,
after that id check for turbo condition if its chinese or used. Also you may be loosing air from the intake manifld flange. After that, youll probably need to either try a GSR set of cams or the expensive way of trying to dial the cams on a dyno...

 

Could be a cam issue.
Were they degree'd in and did you check any swing?

I'm running a VSracing 6162 82 housing, assuming similar to the boosted bois turbo. Granted my car was NA prior to this and had the following already: Skunk 74mm throttle body, Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold, Skunk2 Tuner 2's swung where it liked it NA on the dyno, FIC 1000s. My complete kit is overkill for what I'll ever do with the car. Hot side is 2.5" Cold is 3". Intercooler is a Precision 600. (Its a stock uncracked ITR b18c engine) Also full-race ac compat manifold and 3" downpipe
Made 280 on 4#. 340 on a little over 10#

So I'd look at your intake manifold and throttle body setup and more importantly whats going on with the cams., My setup would benefit greatly from a smaller cam I'm sure of it.

 

I read here there are people making over 800hp on gsr cams. I say sell those cams and get gsr, itr, ctr and call it a day. lol

Cams you dont want too much duration cause you will blow the boost out of the exhaust. N/A cams have long duration since they use that for scavenging to draw more air. With boost u want mild cams. Also those nippon turbo pistons on ebay are cast. If that's what you have. I'm pretty sure they won't be able to handle detonation like 2618 forged can. They will probably explode into a million pieces. 2618 can take detonation..for the most part. I've seen the CP pistons have problems with valve reliefs.