This is my first post so please let me know if this is in the wrong area. My family's old 97 accord lx with 230,xxx miles has been passed down to me. This thing has been beaten, bruised and abused and I've taken up to the task of fixing each of these problems one by one with no prior experience working on cars whatsoever.

I'll try to keep this brief and list my problems in order of importance.

1. Small chip in valve cover. Will this affect sealing?
The last person who worked on it put a lot of hardened, brownish sealant over it and sent it on its way. Can I get away with this too? If so, what should I order?
Should I just order a new valve cover? If so, from where?




2. Is a valve adjustment required after a spark plug tube seal replacement?

3. For as long as I've known the RPM's have been unable to go past 4000. It still drives and revs up fine, but it just caps out there. No idea why.
Anyone have past experience or similar problems with this?

If you have any useful advice for the above questions or even just advice in general on building accords for newbies, it'd be REALLY appreciated right now.

Cheers.

 

Definitely pick up a new cover if you dont want a leak...any scrap yard will have one...94-97 f22b2 engine...has the timing belt ever been serviced? I would check that especially with the valve cover off already..is the check engine light on...if so posts tdc codes

 

Agreed with the above, buy a valve cover from a junkyard.

When you have a vehicle with missing maintance, you just start working through all the things that need to be cleaned and adjusted on a higher mileage vehicle.

1 - You might need to adjust valves, it has the miles on it. But I might wait on that first until after doing all the other things.
2 - Timing belt is probably pretty important to do. So many people post about their broken timing belt and the ensuing damage. While there, you will see there are other pieces that going with the timing belt kit that need to be done.
3 - I would probably go about cleaning the VTEC solenoid
4- Change the transmission fluid and clean the transmission solenoids
5-Check your fuel pressure
6-Replace any filter you can (oil, fuel, cabin, air)
7-Take a look under the car for leaks (steering rack, power steering pump, axle seals, oil pan, rear seals, transmission)

And, as said above, any codes?

 

Thanks for the fast replies. This website is a godsend.
I ordered a used valve cover off ebay this morning.

The strange thing is...Before I put the car on stands, I scanned it and it had NO CODES, NO CEL. This really confused me because there were definitely exhaust leaks and the cat was completely rusted to hell, but the secondary O2 sensor doesn't seem to mind

1. If I do the spark plug tube seal replacement, will I still be able to drive without the adjustment?
2. What should I look for in a worn timing belt?
3. This car is a non-vtec model unfortunately (F22B2)
4. I'll look into that.
5. May be beyond my expertise
6. Replaced OEM intake with short ram. I've looked up a video for the fuel filter replacement and it's definitely beyond my expertise.
7. Bottom of the car is soaked with oil. Car has been leaking oil for years. I can't tell what's leaking and what isn't.
Ironically the leaks have kept the suspension bushings lubricated and in good shape so I'll leave those alone.


Here's what I'm doing to the car right now.

• Completely replacing the exhaust system, header to muffler.
• Sway bar end links
• Valve cover gasket and Spark plug tube seals.
• Cleaning EGR passages

Some extra things I found out.

• Engine replaced at 150k
• Distributor looks relatively new
• Small leak where the radiator hose meets the engine.

Here's the engine bay as she sits.

 

I agree, oil leaks take a little bit to get to them all. Just get under, clean it all off, and check after each drive to find the leaks.

Or start replacing things, but I don't really advise that.

Common leaks are:

oil pan
steering rack
timing area
valve cover
distributor o ring
power steering hoses
transmission leaks

Fuel pressure is easy to check, go to hardware store, rent fuel pressure gauge. Connect in line to fuel line, tape to window, drive around and see what it does when it's acting bad. Does it drop?

I see that you have aftermarket intake. Just to make sure the intake filter isn't the issue (junky ones can do this), remove the filter and drive to see if there is any difference.

Cleaning all that oil will take time.

 

A lot has changed since I last posted. Fully replaced the exhaust system, cleaned up the oil, and replaced the valve cover gasket + spark plug tube seals. No leaks in that area. Car sounds quite mean, and combined with the header and intake, it feels more lively.

Two main problems I want to tackle right now:

1. RPMs still cap out at 4000 while driving, but still able to rev past it in neutral.
Revs gradually slow and stop climbing at 4k. Drives normal otherwise.
Almost like it's the car's new redline.
Could it be a bad crank position sensor?
I have searched on the forum to no avail for this problem

2. p0141 after replacing downstream O2 sensor. Comes back almost immediately after clearing the code.
I replaced the old O2 sensor with a new Denso O2 sensor, so that shouldn't be the issue,
Could this be caused by inadequate tightening of the O2 sensor? I just tightened it until it was good and secure.
Is it a problem with the rest of the O2 sensor heater circuit? How the hell do I fix that?


Additional problems:
I have now identified a leak from the body and boots of the power steering rack as well as the oil pan.

Right now I think I will just keep the power steering fluid topped off, and leave the oil pan for now. I plan to do those in addition to EGR port cleaning at my next oil change.

 

RPMS crapping out at 4000 RPM
This could be a crank position sensor, others have posted about this phenomenom and replaced it to fix it.
Read here and see what you think:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...2981341/page2/

How to replace it is here:

 

Thanks for the swift reply. I'm very tempted to do this, because I've also seen that pop up in other threads as well. The only strange thing is that I never received a code...Should I just go ahead and order the parts anyway? It seems like it's due for a replacement anyway,

 

I think it's an inexpensive thing to try. I believe those are only about $25. So,yes if the cost is low I would try it.

 

Brake fluid.

Mine looked like unfiltered milky coffee, and that's pretty standard on older vehicles here in Taiwan.