Sharkwave

I finally got the car to a workshop, and got the code. It turns out to be a CKP sensor failure. I was told to replace the distributor, but they cost about $1000. The guy at the workshop told me I could find a cheaper one online. Can anyone recommend a good site which sell car parts?

Kind Regards

GhostAccord

Should take your car to a mechanic who knows something about the OBD2 Honda Accord. Obviously even the Honda mech you took it to didn't remember that the CKP sensor is not in the distributor of the OBD2 Accord. It is mounted down in behind the crank pulley mounted to the oil pump housing along with the TDC sensor. Therefore replacing your distributor will not fix a CKP issue. Only the CYP sensor is located in the distributor.

You should check the connector located coming out of the lower right of the timing cover. should be a 4 wire connector (RED & GRN = TDC and BLU & WHT = CKP) Make sure it clean, good and tight and that none of the wires have been worn/have a short/open in the circuit. Testing the connectivity of the wire is much cheaper than replacing the part blindly.

kd97accord

My accord had the exact same issue last year, and thats what it was, the wires headin down to that sensor were chafed and the conductors were shorting out with each other, and if i were to hit a large puddle it could cause the car to shut down completely. Only speaking from experience, but that would be the VERY first thing I would check.

Dirt McHondy

I am smack-dab in the middle of a similar issue: the compression on cylinder two is 31psi and accompanied by a heavy gas smell. I was getting horrific gas mileage too, so I unhooked the fuel injector to save gas and that's when the 4k max revs began... power is non-existent, also. Getting on the highway, getting up a hill, passing (please!)... can't do any of it quickly.

GhostAccord

Yeah that's usually what happens when you unplug a major component of the PGM-FI system. aka the fuel injector. The ECU can see that and goes into limp/back up mode. This way hopefully you don't do any damage to the engine. With a compression test number that low. I would suspect that you had a check engine light previous to this though.

dglassmyer

You guys do realize that trying to tune an engine that has lost compression is like trying to tune a guitar with a broken neck right?
Its pointless, an engine can only be properly tuned if it is first mechanically sound.

There was another thread about about a guy changing his plugs with one cylinder supposedly at zero compression wondering why his plug change didn't help.

Take care of your engines internal issues before attempting to fix anything else.
Otherwise get a rock, start rolling it up a hill, and be ready to keep doing that until you address the underlying issue.

GhostAccord

^^ Makes you wonder eh!

Sharkwave

My Honda is not OBD2. As it's not an american car, my year model does not have an OBD2. Does that make any different?

And another workshop also suspected a bad distributor. I forgot to mentioned that it was a "DTC 4 error" with the CKP sensor.

And to all of you commenting on the low compression rate.. I have not felt any loss in acceleration up to 4000 rpms after this problem occured. It feels exactly the same as it always have.

Kind regards

GhostAccord

Sorry, a large number of the members who post on H-T are from North America. I missed the note that you are from Norway. I have reading comprehension issues some times

If you have an OBD1 F22B1/5 then the 3 timing sensors are located in the distributor. They can be replaced. However, it is hard to track down the individual sensors new. So it is usually easier just to replace the entire housing that comes with the sensors in it.

$1000 is very steep considering you can buy OEM Honda distributors from an online store for $470 + shipping. Here is one example http://www.hondapartsdeals.com
The North American 94-95 EX Accord comes with the - OBD1 SOHC 2.2l F22B VTEC internal coil distributor. If that is the same as yours it's Honda Part No. 30100-P0A-A02.

Remand distributors are OK, However, they can be hit and miss. Due to the cheaper electronics components that they use to replace the worn out parts. Again if you are shopping in North America you are looking for a 94-95 Ex Accord distributor. (Canadian EX-R)

Sharkwave

Yes, my engine is a F22B1, so the sensor is inside the distributor.
You say it's easier to replace the entire housing, but I have replaced the distributor twice already. I replaced a distributor similar to this: http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...0-PT3-A12-.jpg Does that include the housing?

And is there any guarantee the problem will be solved if I replace the distributor yet another time?

I did get a part number from the mechanic, which is 30100(5)-P5S-GO1.

Kind regards

GhostAccord

If you have already replaced the distributor and it did not fix the issue. You should test the wiring, there could be an open/short somewhere in the circuit. Or a wire may have come loose in one of the connectors.

Yes, the link you posted is a complete distributor housing.

Sharkwave

I didn't fix it myself. I left it to a Honda dealership to replace the two distributors, and I would believe they did it right, at least one of the times. I find it hard to believe they did the same mistake twice on the same car.

But if I replace this distributor, I will make another Honda dealership do the job. But I just don't want to use 1000$ on something that might not fix the problem.

Sharkwave

I believe I've forgot to mention how this problem occured in the first place. When I bought the car engine had no obvious or visible problem. And I could easily go past 4k rpm and felt no loss in power.

After driving the car for a few weeks I noticed my car was rocking back and forth when I let my foot of the gas pedal. This was quite annoying so I took it to a Honda dealership. That's when the problem with the rev limit occured and my car went into limp mode.
They read the CEL code and it turned out to be the distributor. The dealership took no blame at all, and said they had done nothing to the distributor what so ever. All they claimed to do was to take a compression test and change the spark plugs. They helped me buy a second-hand distributor and replace it. This did not help, so I tried to replace it again. This time the rocking was gone, but the rev issue were still present.

Earlier this year I took it to another Honda dealership and they said the same thing. It was most likely the distributor. But will it help to buy a completely new distributor and replace it yet again?

jvg2310

If your Honda Accord don't rev over 3,000 or 4,000 just change the crank position sensor located near the damper. This sensor has two sensor and a plug. Wrong signal to computer by this sensor causes bad rev. Don't touch your distributor. This car don't have the sensor there. Both sensors are in the crank position around the damper.

badlt

I have a 2.3L 2000 Accord and noticed recently that I had no power on the throttle... needed to floor it to get up to speed. Then I noticed when I hit 4000rpm the engine would top out. Started to freak out and then called my mechanic. He said it mostly just needs oil. I checked the oil stick and it was bone dry. Not sure why the oil light didn't come on... maybe because I'm using synthetic oil.

Anyways, dumped 2L of oil in and whammo. Got all my power back and the car goes past 4000rpm no problem.

Apparently the engine will disengage the VTEC module and cap rpm's at 4000 to prevent engine damage.

So I would suggest checking the oil before doing anything else.

Tech:B16-Honda

Hi everyone , got eternal issue yesterday

Be very very Carefull not only SENSOR or WIRE can make the ECUS become switch on protect rev limiter

I past two day testing all engine sensor and relay , and wire

My problem still remain

-Hard Starting
-Rev Limiter 3.500 - 4.000
-Smell petrol as **** under the hood when pushing the Rev Limiter more then 3 sec on 4.000 cap rev
-Engine Idle Slow , RPM acceleration slow

But .... today all changed

I read many forum's topic's with this Issue on many's swaped's car's JDM motor etc ... without any answers to the problem , i read many people story engine rev above 4000 RPM like me , i fixed the problem and i wanted to share with US to help futur person to be able to run the engine like before , without changing all sensor and wasting hour's and hour's trying many trick etc ....

The SOLUTION i find at 9:00 PM ( night )

When i finaly deceide to replace my ECUS who i removed earlier two day ago from the box cover plastic on the right side under dash panel

BAD GROUND Ecus RELAY CAUSE ENGINE become in SAFE mode , mean WILL not REV above 4000 RPM , i put back the ECUS Square P30 to the ORIGINAL position GROUNDED to the CAR in the SPACE Ecus Square Under the Plastic Covert PROTECTION , turned the key

*Car Started 1/4 motor crank switch _ FAST AS **** _
*Rev Limiter Now 9.500
*Car run like a BEAST ! .....

I want notice, the problem started when i put OFF the ECUS from his protection spot plastic right side under dash , remove ecus from his spot made the ECUS not GROUNDED anymore to the CHASIS ( frame ) car ,

I REALY hope i will HELP many's people's in futur SWAP or just answer many's people's !

I made this Account to share the resolved problem issue's , many's forums give astuce and way to fix it , but no one seem to give a correct answer or tell how she/he fixed the problem ( I am Canadian from CANADA sory for hard English )

Be very carefull with GROUND --- ) Bad Ground can push the ECUS to turn into LAMPER mod ( SAVE MOD to protect ENGINE Life )

- Just a ground Ecus Relay can cause my engine wont rev above 4000 RPM , are you kidding me ?
'' Sory Sir , No i dont Kidding You '' it true , and it happens to me , i put the ECUS back in the OEM spot under plastic covert right side under dash ...
Result was = No more Rev Limiter - Easy Start As ****
Guy LOOK all GROUND if the ECUS never moved from his FACTORY spot

If my reply topic HELP or RESOLVE the problem , please share here , that will help other person to resolve any futur problem or existing problem at this time we lost nothing , we can just be winner !

Thanks !

f22b2

Hi guys I have 97 Honda Accord SE
have with the car 2 year
so my question is
my car don't pass more then 4500 rpms
i have my check engine light on cuz my catalytic converter are bad it's the only code I have
I replace the engine 1 year ago with a Jdm f23a but I'm still using my f22b2 throttle body , intake manifold, wiring harness, injectors, auto transmission
idk what can be that
one time. I race and the car don't pass over 95 miles and no more then 4500 rpms
Also when I turn the car in the morning
my rpms are in the range off 1500 rpms it's that normal