As the title might suggest, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship going on with my B16 del Sol turbo build which I thought I would document here and update accordingly as my time allows it.

When I was piecing together the kit the inteded use was daily driving between March-November with occasinal track days and I did not want more than 300 hp. Secondary goal was to have boost around 3k RPM.
The choice of turbo ended up being a MHI TD05HR from a EVO VIII.
I found one after a rebuild with a 4mm wider compressor inducer wheel that also came with a custom built equal length true twin scroll mani and also a 2.75 inch downpipe.
Coincidentally it was also running on a del Sol with a B18C4. I have the dyno graph, that car was pushing 395 hp with E85 around 1.3 bar if I'm not mistaken.

The summary of the build with the forementioned turbo:
stock B16 block
stock, resurfaced PR3-2 head with Supertech valve stem seals and new OEM spring type LMAs
stock IM
OEM headgasket
ARP head studs
Bosch 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
2.75 inch exhaust with a resonator and a rear muffler (no cat but will have for next year)
TurboWorks FMIC (unsure of the dimensions) with 2.25 inch piping
Speedfactory 4bar MAP
Tegiwa alloy rad w/ Mishimoto 12-inch fan
Valve cover vented with 2 10AN fittings to a catch can
P28 tuned on Crome

The story and problems in short:
When I first put the car together I didn't take the head off as it was working well before as NA and I hoped it would last at least till the end of this season . That proved to be a mistake since during tuning it started pushing the coolant out of my overflow tank. Suspected headgasket and this is what it was. I waited 5 weeks for that head resurfacing job...anyways, then I installed the ARP studs following the manual - hand tight into the block, torqued to specs (108 NM) in 3 steps...well, I drove 30 kms and it was leaking oil between the head and the block at cylinder no.1 I was not happy to say the least.
Everything apart, cleaning, then putting it together again except now using an allen key (I think it's called) I screwed the studs into the block as much as I could by hand. NOW it seems to be working BUT...it's generating SO MUCH HEAT. And I don't know what to do with it...I'll take pictures and post them up here but I don't have that many options I think.
FMIC is blocking the airflow to the rad and not much I can do about that. Maybe I could get a better rad, Tegiwa doesn't seem to be of the highest quality/most efficient? I was looking into Koyo that costs 2 times as much...and get a shroud with it as that I don't have one, I heard it could help. (but the rad is still like right next to the downpipe, I don't know how they say this is so effective?) This would be option no.1.
No.2 oil cooler. If I can keep the oil cool that will help with the coolant and vica versa. Currently my oil temp is around 105 °C at highway speeds which is 130-140 km/h here when outside temperature is around 30 °C. When it was around 20 °C oil was also a bit colder, slightly below 100 °C.
No. 3 cut some opening of the hood? This would be last resort, I prefer not to do it. I just now installed some hood spacers I'll see if they will help.

Any other possible solutions I would be glad to get, I just think I have read through everything already.

 

So this is for my d16y7, running triple core goautoworks half rad.

-Bottle of water wetter with 50/50 coolant/water mix (probably should be 30/70)
-Setrab Oil Cooler w/ mishimoto sandwich plate. I highly suggest the Greddy sandwich plate that angles out the AN fittings away from the block. There is not a lot of room to play with back there.
-Spal 30102029 12" Swept Blade Fan with their relay harness. I have it wired into stock signal wiring, so the fan comes on when car tells it to and with the relay, it's able to pull what it needs.
-Goautoworks fan shroud - he can re-drill for the SPAL fan to fit.
-Shrouding on sides of radiator, just some metal sheets taped in place with aluminum ducting tape.
-Almost everything is covered with some sort of heat protection. DEI fire wrap on oil/coolant lines going into/out of turbo, turbo blanket, gold heat reflective tape on radiator, ceramic coating on turbo bits.
-Make sure your tuning software has radiator fan set to go off at something like 70-80mph (I still need to do this)
-Also make sure you don't have stock pcv in place, idk if having this in will push coolant or bust headgaskets, but it will mess with other seals.

I just did some mountain runs this weekend in 80-90f ambient temps and was at ~180f oil temps and ~185-190f coolant temps like 99% of the time. Making my fan stay on until higher speeds will help me in the remaining 1%.