Car starts up only if I give it gas. But won’t stay running unless I’m not giving it more gas.
Has a D16A6 with a MPFI and wiring harness from an SI of the same year.
And a PM6 ECU.
I checked the vacuum hoses, throttle body, TPS, and Idle control Valve.
Any advice or suggestions would be awesome!

 

Is the check engine light on? Is the ECU flashing any codes?

 

Yes! It’s flashing 14 times in rapid succession.
So code 14.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/attach...cture_3482.jpg

 

That is the code for the IACV (or sometimes called the EACV). Check to make sure the IACV and IAT plugs are not switched.

 

Start by cleaning the IACV and FITV.

 

Got it, I’ll check the plugs again!

 

I’ve cleaned the IACV last night.
I did not think to clean the FITV, thanks!

 

I don’t think my throttle body is equipped with a FITV.
I have a D16A6, does it even need one?

 

 

 

Would this be the FITV?
It was unplugged, I couldn’t find anywhere it plugs into.

 

Yes

The two FITV wires in connector C176 run to pins 5 and 6 in connectors C313/C175 on the left side shock tower.

 

This seems to be the only connector coming out. Does not match the ones described in the photo.

 

That looks to be a 14-pin connector. You're looking for an 8-pin connector.

The STD Civic with the D15B2 had a 14-pin C313 connector at that location, so perhaps the harness has been rewired for the Si swap.

Below is the stock pinout for the STD 14-pin connector:

 

The engine and wiring harness are from a SI of the same year. I could not find the 8-Pin connector anywhere under the dash.

 

It appears that the Si engine harness 8-pin C313 connector wires were spliced to the STD 14-pin C313 connector wires. The same was likely done for fuel injector Red/Blk wires in connector C174.

Do these two tests.

Test 1

1. Turn Key OFF.
2. Unplug ECU connector B and the 14-pin connectors C313/C175. Your picture shows C313.
3. Use a multimeter to determine which C175 wire has continuity with ECU pin B2.
4. The corresponding C313 wire should be connected to the FITV Blu wire. Is it pin 8?

Test 2

1. Turn key OFF.
2. Unplug the 14-pin connectors C313/C175. Your picture shows C313.
3. Turn key to ON(II).
4. Use a multimeter to determine which C175 wires have battery voltage to body ground.
5. Remove dash fuse 14.
6. Use a multimeter to determine which C175 wire that had battery voltage in step 4 loses voltage with fuse 14 removed .
7. The corresponding C313 wire should be connected to the FITV Blk/Yel wire. Is it pin 9?

 

I have the FITV finally wired up. I used the two pin connector off the previous harness.
It still doesn’t idle properly.
I might just delete the the damn thing.

 

Describe the current idle problem.

After clearing all codes from the ECU and driving the car, what codes if any return?

 

The ECU blinks 20 times.

 

Code 20 would seem to indicate ELD, which is in the underhood fusebox. The only time I've ever seen one fail was when a bad alternator cooked it, so I'm inclined to suspect electrical gremlins. Did you do the MPFI conversion on this car, or did it come to you as currently wired?

 

The previous owners a have done the swap themselves