I finally had my cb7 running great (i thought) then I got on the highway. I was at almost 4000 rpm at 60 ish mph with the sport shift off. and the car was overheating. it has always run a little hot ( halfway on the gauge.) I adjusted the ignition timing to what looks like 20 degrees which were as far as I could adjust it. the book called for 15 + or - two.
running out of play to adjust it didn't seem right though, also the vacuum pressure dropped from 20 to 15psi at the manifold. I did put the jumper wire in the service port the light was on. the only thing it could be is I have an FIV valve with a busted hose. cold starts are rough but if it's warm out and the engine is cold it doesn't have a problem I looking for the valve haven't found one yet ( for less than 150) the idle is a little high not too much and every once and a while it surges while idleing., as well as a high idle when I go into gear causing the car to want to push forward while the foot is on the brake not always some times. I've replaced the brake booster and master cylinder there doesn't seem to be a vacuum issue. holds at 20 psi before I adjusted the timing. the car was a lot faster before it still runs good just not spunky like it was with the timing where it was.
I'm going to check thermostat tomorrow I replaced the coolant when io bought the car a month ago.
is the gearing on this model as such that it stays that high on the rpm band at speed or should I be looking into that
I will put a photo of what I think is the cold start valve (this is my first import, I lOVE the car I'm building it with one of my kids.)
any thoughts would be appreciated I love this site BTW

 

I run 2900 rpm at 70mph

 

To see what's the best you can get, I would run a radiator flush through and do the long clean cycle (24 hours) not the 15 minute one. Then, because it's summer, run about 75% water 25% coolant and also pull the thermostat so there is no chance of flow blockage. Now drive the car and see what it's doing . If there is no improvement at least at that point you know it's more likely in the engine that's clogged or timing off, or something . I was impressed when I ran the flush, the needle dropped measurably.

 

ok ill try it, thanks for the advice ill let you know how it works out

 

​​​​​​​yeah I'm way off thanks for the reply bro

 

Of course, see what comes out of the radiator. If it's really scale and garbage, it's possible your radiator is shot. I've seen people with (for example) very heavy mineral water just pouring into the radiator and getting scale and clogged, especially if they never flush it. So half the radiator is not working. But I think you can usually see that stuff if you run the cleaner through it. I flush mine every 2 years or so, after I change the fluid. But it's still a 20 year old radiator, so it could be just dead from rust or the years.

The hope is also that it might remove other junk in the head and places inside, so you just never know. But again, do the long cycle to get it all out, On my civic, I ended up running through two cycles to get it clean. it was just disgusting, It looked like the fluid hadn't been changed in 10 years. I was so surprised I was able to revive it, and not have to put another radiator in.

This triggers another thought. Make sure the fans are working to cool as well. you could have a non-functionning one, although you would think you would notice it, sometime we overlook things like that too.

 

All good stuff thank you I should have flushed it when I tuned it up I changed the coolant but we were dying to drive it. then I just forgot
NO, the fan is working, I did notice sometimes the fan works with the ignition off, and other times I have to leave the key on. the fan next to it doesn't come on I haven't fixed the AC yet