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I think I did a reasonable job cutting in the latches....don't want to do that again.
I've got PITS developing. The company I get wax, etc. from said, if I can feel them, a clay bar WON'T fix them.
I've got several of these pits mostly around the center of the hood in a 3 ft. area. Maybe 10-15.
....and a quarter sized group of them near one of the latches, at the front corner.
VIS is fairly useless at this type of support. I guess they want you to buy a new one. They told me the finish is polyethylene epoxy resin. There's no such thing. It's either polyethylene resin, or epoxy resin. They have very different characteristics.
From what I've read, I don't think it's polyethylene resin, that tends to crack. So I think it's epoxy resin.
Does anybody have experience at refinishing these hood?
Thanks
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Use an 800 grit sandpaper and do a real nice wet sanding and re-clear. Wait 24 hours and if you have the know how and tools wet sand 1k, 2k and 3k, compound buff and polish.
If you know everything already then why do you ask for advice?
read the second sentence and then skip down the youtube road of refinishing carbon fiber hoods.
I'm just repeating what I've read on the epoxy manufacturer's website. If I knew, I wouldn't be asking here, but I don't just except everybody's opinion on face value. I question everything and then do more research to verify.
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I'm just repeating what I've read on the epoxy manufacturer's website. If I knew, I wouldn't be asking here, but I don't just except everybody's opinion on face value. I question everything and then do more research to verify.
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I’ve cleared carbon fiber hoods so I know it’s just fine, I’ve done lots of painting. Now if you have cracks or imperfections in the actual carbon fiber re-clearing will just cover it but it will still be seen and at that point just body work it and paint it to match the rest of the car. Now if the clear is a faded wet sanding and re-clearing is perfecto.
Also looking at your pictures those are imperfections in the actual resin that looks deep, almost looks like air bubbles which isn’t something you can just fix unless you body work those areas, in which case you’re screwed.
Also looking at your pictures those are imperfections in the actual resin that looks deep, almost looks like air bubbles which isn’t something you can just fix unless you body work those areas, in which case you’re screwed.
I appreciate this info. You seem to have good experience.
"isn’t something you can just fix unless you body work those areas"
This is info I need. What exactly do you mean. I have most of the equipment to do this, just not much painting experience. I don't want to buy another hood and try cutting the latches again, so I have to do the best I can with this hood.
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So, i had the same problem with my spoon cf hood. The way i fixed it is i bought some clear two part epoxy, smoothed out the pock marks by filling them with the epoxy, then i used a paint de-nibber tool (which is just a fancy word for a tiny little file to wear down the rough parts), hit it with 800 sandpaper, then 1200, then 1500, then scuffed the entire hood with a red scotchbrite pad, wax and grease remover over it, and hit it with a coat of ppg euro clear coat. I understand why the companies dont want you clear coating the hoods, because it definitely soaked into parts that were a little more thirsty from the setting up process of the epoxy from the manufacturer, but after 3 or 4 coats, you'll have enough thickness to glass everything out with a little cut and buff.
to make a long story short, yes its fixable. yes it will take a lot of time and work. yes it will add a little weight, which usually doesnt matter because most of the time cf is for looks and not so much performance. you just need to ask yourself if that little imperrfection is worth all of the hassle
I appreciate this info. You seem to have good experience.
"isn’t something you can just fix unless you body work those areas"
This is info I need. What exactly do you mean. I have most of the equipment to do this, just not much painting experience. I don't want to buy another hood and try cutting the latches again, so I have to do the best I can with this hood.
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what I mean is that those look like air bubbles that go all the way through to the actual carbon matt. So you won’t be able to sand that out, the raised bubbles may flatten out if you sand it but the discolored bubbles won’t go away even if you clear over it, you will see it through the new clear.
My carbon hood has the notorious spider cracking on the very front of the hood where the hood latch is, of course when I re-cleared the hood you still see the spider cracks because it goes all the way through. Now the clear will kind of fill the cracks in and protect it but when you have certain imperfections clear won’t solve it.
what I mean is that those look like air bubbles that go all the way through to the actual carbon matt. So you won’t be able to sand that out, the raised bubbles may flatten out if you sand it but the discolored bubbles won’t go away even if you clear over it, you will see it through the new clear. My carbon hood has the notorious spider cracking on the very front of the hood where the hood latch is, of course when I re-cleared the hood you still see the spider cracks because it goes all the way through. Now the clear will kind of fill the cracks in and protect it but when you have certain imperfections clear won’t solve it.
Yes that discribes them pretty well, but no cracks. I'm not looking for show condition. This is more maintenance so it stays in good condition for many more years. I'll have to do it eventually either way. I'm going to drive this car till I'm dead...I'm 64, so it could be 20 more years.....hopefully. The car is in very good mechanical condition. I've replaced everything with OEM (including all bushings, ball joints, bearings, ground control-eibach, etc.) or high end after market, and a '96 GSR VTEC and trans, and I only drive 3-4k miles per year now.
Did this last winter. P72 OBD1 Hondata.
Originally Posted by kelsodeez
So, i had the same problem with my spoon cf hood. The way i fixed it is i bought some clear two part epoxy, smoothed out the pock marks by filling them with the epoxy, then i used a paint de-nibber tool (which is just a fancy word for a tiny little file to wear down the rough parts), hit it with 800 sandpaper, then 1200, then 1500, then scuffed the entire hood with a red scotchbrite pad, wax and grease remover over it, and hit it with a coat of ppg euro clear coat. I understand why the companies dont want you clear coating the hoods, because it definitely soaked into parts that were a little more thirsty from the setting up process of the epoxy from the manufacturer, but after 3 or 4 coats, you'll have enough thickness to glass everything out with a little cut and buff.
to make a long story short, yes its fixable. yes it will take a lot of time and work. yes it will add a little weight, which usually doesnt matter because most of the time cf is for looks and not so much performance. you just need to ask yourself if that little imperrfection is worth all of the hassle
If you want to take a pick and pop the air pockets and fill that is up to you LOL. If you want to 800 grit the hood smooth and do 3 coats of clear and cut and buff or get fancy and want a deep glass look do three coats of clear, allow to dry and hit it with 800 and do another 3 coats of clear and then cut and buff. Here are some clear choices depending on how much you want to spend. Also here are the cut and buff products I use.
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For the short term I may fill, just keep it from getting worse, but I'll have to go whole hog at some point. I haven't decided yet. It depends on needing to do a bit of work (clutch/trowout bearing) in my other vehicle. Have to have one of them...I live out in the boonies.
So, i had the same problem with my spoon cf hood. The way i fixed it is i bought some clear two part epoxy, smoothed out the pock marks by filling them with the epoxy, then i used a paint de-nibber tool (which is just a fancy word for a tiny little file to wear down the rough parts), hit it with 800 sandpaper, then 1200, then 1500, then scuffed the entire hood with a red scotchbrite pad, wax and grease remover over it, and hit it with a coat of ppg euro clear coat. I understand why the companies dont want you clear coating the hoods, because it definitely soaked into parts that were a little more thirsty from the setting up process of the epoxy from the manufacturer, but after 3 or 4 coats, you'll have enough thickness to glass everything out with a little cut and buff.
to make a long story short, yes its fixable. yes it will take a lot of time and work. yes it will add a little weight, which usually doesnt matter because most of the time cf is for looks and not so much performance. you just need to ask yourself if that little imperrfection is worth all of the hassle
Ppg euro clear? How did you like this product? I want to research different product.
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Mine's just an Eastwood. I painted my car with...the photo at top, but I had to do it during the winter just before I had to move. It was barely 50-55 degrees at the top of the car and I only had medium temp thinner with Nason paint. I couldn't"puddle" the paint, so I just put 7 lighter coats. I tried heavier coats on the front fenders and they looked great. Then 4 minutes later, it started running off. Had to wipe them off, resand....start over. I'll paint the whole thing again, some day in more moderate temps. At least I'm a good masker.
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My research not showing very good marks for PPG. ...some contraversy surrounding the exit of key personnel to other companies....don't know if it's true....
Pits in carbon fiber
