Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

ENGINE/TRANS/FUEL/EMS:
- B18C1 GSR Head
- Stock GSR cams (maybe 00-01 ITR cams?)
- JUN Adjustable Cam Gears Not needed for stock cams - put this money towards an LSD.
- JUN Dual Valve Springs and JUN Titanium Retainers Some folks would steer you away from using Ti retainers on a street car. If you aren't revving to the moon, and since you're keeping a stock cam, stock steel retainers will work fine. You really don't even need the upgraded springs unless you change cams or up your rev limit. This could be money towards an LSD. I would also plan on freshening up the head - valve job, valve seals, knurled guides, resurface.
- Skunk2 LMAs
- B18C1 GSR Block Stock Sleeves (I would prefer to do this without having the block resleeved, but if it's absolutely necessary then I will have it done) Plan on having the block bored/decked/honed. You won't lose any reliability by going to 81.5mm, and you'll be starting with a fresh surface.
- CP Pistons; dished, stock 81 mm bore (I want to keep the stock bore to have the sleeves thick as possible, but if I have to increase it to 81.5 mm for some reason then so be it.) What compression ratio? I'd suggest something between 9.0:1 - 10.0:1
- Crower H-Beam Rods; ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
- ARP Head and Main Studs Don't buy the main studs and put that money towards an LSD.
- OEM Honda Main and Rod Bearings
- Stock GSR Crank
- Stock GSR Transmission (is an LSD necessary for my goals? Also, I don't know much about proper clutch selection. How should I go about identifying one for this setup?) Buy your clutch based on your torque goals - this is how clutches are rated. I'd probably suggest a sprung Competition Clutch Stage 4 (250% over stock torque holding power). An LSD will be nice. While you've got the transmission open, refresh bearings and seals as required.
- AEM Fuel Rail, Fuel Filter and Fuel Pressure Regulator Staying with the stock rail and filter would save you some cash, and both are capable of working fine on your setup (staying on gasoline).
- RC 750cc Injectors I'd recommend a Bosch EV14 style injector instead. I like Injector Dynamics, and you should be able to find a good used set of ID1000's for under $400.
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump It will probably be enough, but why not just go for one of the 340's from various brands, or the DW400? Similar price and gives you more margin.
- Hasport Street Mounts
- Hondata S300; tuned for 91 pump (highest octane abundant in gas stations all over the SF Bay Area, unless I'm seriously wrong.) Make sure you pay for a professional dyno tune
- Hondata Boost Control Solenoid Buy somewhere besides Hondata - it's just a MAC 3-port with a Hondata sticker on it and you can find them way cheaper elsewhere.
- Hondata 3Bar MAP Sensor
- GReddy ProFec-B Boost Controller Not needed if you're running Hondata S300 and a solenoid
- GReddy GTT3 Turbo Timer Not needed - add this money to your LSD budget.

TURBO/EXHAUST SETUP:
- GT2871R or GT3076R: I've heard many opinions about these two turbos. Some prefer the GT2871R because it spools quicker, hits full boost earlier, and is more responsive and fun on the street. Others sided with the GT3076R because it's more common on Honda builds and is capable of more power. I've read that the 2871R is capable of 400 whp, but it is debatable on whether or not it can do so without being maxed out. I've also read the the 3076R is too big of a turbo for anything less than 450 whp. I was leaning towards the 2871R until I started reading about sizing turbos correctly to avoid too much cylinder pressure. Since the 2871R is smaller, would that mean that it would have to force in more air than a 3076R would to reach 400 whp? If that increases the risk of the stock sleeves cracking, would the 3076R be the better option? I recommend talking with Greg (@Autoworks ) at Go-Autoworks about the entire turbo kit. He will put you on the right setup for your goals. Since your car is a street build, resist the temptation to go for the bigger turbos - get a small, efficient BB turbo that is capable of your goals. Area under the curve for the win on a street car.

- Mini-Ram/Ramhorn T3 Manifold
- Tial 44 mm Wastegate
- Recirculated Wastegate Dump
- 2.5" test pipe (GReddy exhaust tapers to 2.5" where it meets the cat)
- GReddy Supreme SP 3" Catback

Originally Posted by DaX

Great suggestion @Nathan937 - CSS is a great idea for future growth if he can swing it. If OP decides to do CSS (it's stock sleeves with a CNC block guard professionally installed), don't have your block machined before you do it. I would recommend just letting CNC Werx do the machine work after the CSS installation. Plan on $350 for CSS installation, $350 for bore/deck/hone/jet wash, and about $150 for shipping there and back. Buy your 81.5mm pistons first and send them in with your block. My local shop charged me $330 for bore/deck/hone/jet wash on my wife's Accord, so other than the additional cost of shipping, it's a killer deal!

Definitely cool to get a nod from Hasport! I can honestly say I've only ever used their mounts other than OEM. Great product from some great innovators!

Originally Posted by NVturbo

I hope you do realize....there's no way your car is going to pass CA's strict emissions with that setup. If there's a way to deal with this, proceed with the build.

Originally Posted by DaX

First of all, I would not recommend turboing your daily driver. It's a bad idea. I did it when I was in college and had to buy a daily beater. My current turbo Civic was a spare-no-expense street build, and it's way more reliable than my previous build, but I still wouldn't want to rely on it as a daily driver. I've commented in blue below on your build. You did not mention a head gasket - OEM, Golden Eagle, or JE ProSeal are my recommendations.

Originally Posted by Nathan937

DAX is on point with what he said. I’ve done a very similar build to what you just listed. And I’ll add a few things to consider that I’m currently dealing with or wish I would have done.

-If your doing all that work to your block, you’d be silly not to send it to CSS and pay an extra $350 (I think) to get their service done. Look into it, it will allow you to add more power down the road safely. I didn’t and I wish I would have. The machine work is all the same, just pay the extra cash and get it sleeved with CSS because at this point, 350 is nothing on a full build.

-not saying the RC750s are bad, that’s what I have and they are ok. But newer technology is there, and go ahead and buy a newer style and get something a little more efficient.

-you’ll want LSD. I’m at 325whp, and I couldn’t imagine the torque steer without it.

-And I’m currently looking into getting the GT3076R. Good spool time, with good power ability for what mine and your setup is after. That has my vote.


if you feel like it, Go read my thread on my civic. Almost item for item I have on my car what you have listed with some exceptions. But I’ve got a log manifold, and recently purchased a ramhorn and am debating running it with my old Garrett, or waiting until I get the new turbo then going in for the tune that way. I’m shooting for 400 as well.

either way, good luck on your build. Buy once, cry once. Some things are more money up front. But if you don’t spend a little more now you’ll be buying it all over again in the future. That’s what I’m dealing with 😢

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

Hello all. I hope you and your families are all managing to stay safe in these troubled times.

Since my college campus is closed and my classes have been moved online, I've been taking the opportunity to work as much as possible to help out my family. However, I'm also putting aside my money so that I may piece together a turbo setup for my GSR in the future. I am still a novice when it comes to building cars, but I've tried to offset this by doing as much research and communicating with both people online and face to face as a way of learning how to do this right. Although I would love to have a plethora of tools and resources at my disposal, that simply isn't the case for a 20 year old college student like myself, so I want to be able to turbo my B18C1 without it resulting in my only car being stuck in my driveway with a hole in the block. Not even a year ago I was on the FI forums asking questions about a turbo setup, but I'd like to think that I've grown somewhat since then and finally decided on what I want from my car in terms of power. I'll try to make it as short as possible: 350 to 400 whp and linear/consistent power delivery (I know larger/laggier turbos tend to feel like they're hooked up to an on/off switch), all in one RELIABLE package capable of daily driving. This is the parts list I've created over time based on what I've learned from research and just talking to people who've actually built cars. Please let me know your thoughts and I would most definitely appreciate any feedback and criticism. Thanks!

I have mixed feelings about turbocharging your daily driver. I myself did it many years ago (****, 20 years already?!?! Damn I'm old as hell), and it did work out for me, but that was because kits back then were complete (GReddy) and I and a couple of mates were able to knock it out in a weekend. I was extremely motivated to get this done, as it was my daily car, and management was already included. Having said that, If I did it all over again, I would definitely have an alternative mode of transporation ready in case things don't go as planned. If you plan to take the engine apart (as it looks like you're doing here), I would ensure you have other transportation in the meantime, because this process takes much longer than you'd anticipate. The devil is in the details.

With that said, I'll move to my brief comments.

ENGINE/TRANS/FUEL/EMS:
- B18C1 GSR Head
- Stock GSR cams (maybe 00-01 ITR cams?) These will be difficult to find in this day and age, you're better of just staying with your GS-R camshafts for the power level that you're looking for.
- JUN Adjustable Cam Gears -Nice to have, but only if you already have these items. There's no need to purchase these if you don't have them
- JUN Dual Valve Springs and JUN Titanium Retainers -See comment above. (on Dax's comment about Titanium Retainers) , I don't have a problem with using them in daily drivers, as long as the valve lash is proper and OEM keepers (or those recommended by the manufacturer that you use) are used on the retainers. I still have TODA RACING LTD retainers and valvesprings on my other EM1, and after over 10 years of use, still no issues. But, again, that's from my experience over the years. Some people have had some bad luck with them, but I find it's company dependent.
- Skunk2 LMAs - I wouldn't do that just yet, unless this cylinder head has a large number of miles on them, and it was a pre-95 head. Otherwise, there is no need to change those if they are in good condition. You need to go by "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it, " approach to this.
- B18C1 GSR Block Stock Sleeves (I would prefer to do this without having the block resleeved, but if it's absolutely necessary then I will have it done) -Again, this depends upon what your goals are to be later in both power and purpose. I'm Golden Eagle sleeved from 2005, and only NOW am i changing the car to 2.0 litre and just need to bore my sleeve out. For years I was no more than about 500whp. considering where you're located in CA, there's no reason to ship a block all the way to the east coast for an 81.5mm CSS CNCWERX, when I'm sure the people in California can strike you a good deal. (But again, only if you plan to do a lot more power or abuse later). Otherwise, you're more than fine to just bore/hone to 81.5mm for a fresh surface.
- CP Pistons; dished, stock 81 mm bore (I want to keep the stock bore to have the sleeves thick as possible, but if I have to increase it to 81.5 mm for some reason then so be it.) -Get a fresh surface, get the 81.5mm. You'll be fine and still can use a stock HG
- Crower H-Beam Rods; ARP 2000 Rod Bolts -Perfectly fine
- ARP Head and Main Studs- You need the head studs, but you DO NOT need the main studs, as that forces you to have the crank journals for the mains realigned. Just keep the stock mains and concentrate on the headstuds. As Dax stated, monies would be better used for an LSD vs main studs.
- OEM Honda Main and Rod Bearings - Absolutely. Damn ACLs
- Stock GSR Crank-Just fine
- Stock GSR Transmission (is an LSD necessary for my goals? Also, I don't know much about proper clutch selection. How should I go about identifying one for this setup?) See Dax's commments. they are on point.
- AEM Fuel Rail, Fuel Filter and Fuel Pressure Regulator - I disagree with Dax on this one, especially if you change to another type of injector outside of the Rochester/Lucas (Aka RC) or EV14 Bosch injector. A different rail gives more flexibility for a good AEROMOTIVE FPR, and not the AEM stuff. As for the fuel filter, you can replace the standard one, but a nice -8AN inline fuel filter is easiest to use and allows for more room in the engine bay. That's honestly something you can always change at a different time.
- RC 750cc Injectors -I'm on the fence here. Again, if you have them, fine, but I agree, there are better alternatives than what the Rochester/Lucas/Delphi Injector has to offer, even if it isn't a Bosch-style high impedence injector. Having said that, you'll have a MUCH easier time integrating Bosch style EV14 injectors from South Bay or FIC that fit in many B-series Fuel rails. Plus, you don't have to worry about resistor packs or boxes. So, if you can, find some nice 1000cc EV14 Bosch injectors that are not Grams (from Skunk2)
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump -Not a bad choice, but I'll be honest, they don't make 'em like they used to. You can also do a nice AEM 320lph fuel pump, and its also E85 safe if you decide to go that route. Even Deutchwerks 300lph can work.
- Hasport Street Mounts - Especially if the originals are going, sure. But don't forget the compliance bushings, torque mounts and trailing arm bushings. those are just as important as the engine mounts.
- Hondata S300; tuned for 91 pump (highest octane abundant in gas stations all over the SF Bay Area, unless I'm seriously wrong.) -If you're on 91 octane, and never using anything with more knock-resistance. 400whp is going to be a tough order, so make sure that the tuning is on time.
- Hondata Boost Control Solenoid --Not if you're using the GReddy Profec B, which I find much better to use for a street setup, considering you're in the Bay area with climate, elevation and sudden temp changes. Remember, this also has its own pressure sensor that you'll need to have it work properly. I never liked laptop controlled boost-control when you have to make tiny adjustments because of a cold morning in San Leandro..
- Hondata 3Bar MAP Sensor -Great idea
- GReddy ProFec-B Boost Controller -Love it. You'd be using a DENSO automotive solenoid, which is much more responsive than the MAC industrial solenoid. I'll never use the Hondata boost controller. If you want to save more money, a manual controller from Turbosmart or Hallman works too.
- GReddy GTT3 Turbo Timer -A bit old school, but not a bad idea, just make sure you don't set it too high and just waste a lot of fuel with it. 30 sec for most drives, about 2 min for super hot runs on the highway, no more.

TURBO/EXHAUST SETUP:
- GT2871R or GT3076R: I've heard many opinions about these two turbos. Some prefer the GT2871R because it spools quicker, hits full boost earlier, and is more responsive and fun on the street. Others sided with the GT3076R because it's more common on Honda builds and is capable of more power. I've read that the 2871R is capable of 400 whp, but it is debatable on whether or not it can do so without being maxed out. I've also read the the 3076R is too big of a turbo for anything less than 450 whp. I was leaning towards the 2871R until I started reading about sizing turbos correctly to avoid too much cylinder pressure. Since the 2871R is smaller, would that mean that it would have to force in more air than a 3076R would to reach 400 whp? If that increases the risk of the stock sleeves cracking, would the 3076R be the better option?
Well, I have other alternatives (of course) , but it really depends upon the budget and the purpose of the driving that you're doing. on 91 octane, you're a little limited.

- Mini-Ram/Ramhorn T3 Manifold
- Tial 44 mm Wastegate -Too big and not necessary, you'll slow response a bit, because you're using a smaller/medium framed turbocharger . A Turbosmart Comp40 or 38mm MVS (which is actually a 40mm Valve) will be more than enough. DO NOT get a wastegate that is too large for this.
- Recirculated Wastegate Dump -It's gotta merge in the right area for this to work. So it needs to be at a 15* angle further downstream of the exhaust and gradually brought in. If this is for emissions purposes, don't bother, because you've already violated trying to get Ref'd & Bar'd due to other things. So, it's better not to if you don't have to to. You can easily gain quite a bit of response with this going to atmosphere.
- 2.5" test pipe (GReddy exhaust tapers to 2.5" where it meets the cat) -Get the downpipe and dumptube from the same company, this will not work very well.
- GReddy Supreme SP 3" Catback - I have a couple of these myself. Wonderful choice.

Originally Posted by TheShodan

A couple of notes to work with Dax's comments shown in Red, if that's ok?



You never mentioned the size/type of Intercooler you're going with. You need to state that as well. That is relatively important.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

Even if I retain stock redline and stock cams, wouldn't having an upgraded valve train make a turbocharged setup less likely to have a valve drop? I would imagine that OEM valvesprings wouldn't be able to handle the extra stress from the increase in horsepower.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

- The motor has just above 167k miles. I've read that the LMAs are prone to failing so I wanted to be on the safe side.

They aren't making noise like everyone says though. (This is assuming I do this build on my current car rather than buying another GSR.)

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

- Well, I see the goal for this car being the ultimate street car I guess. I'm not into the turbo setups where it's like a sudden kick in the *** and next thing you know you're banging off the rev limiter.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

I just want it smooth all the way to the top. Kind of like a stock R32 GTR on steroids (of course I've never driven one, but I'm basing this off what I've heard) Honestly, I drive like I'm doing pulls, but that's because every car I've owned before my GSR was slow and had D15s and D16s., so I'm used to winding out my car. Seeing that I would be shooting with 350 to 400 hp on this build, I definitely don't think I'll be beating on it as often as I usually would, and that power is already way more than enough for the street so I don't plan on shooting for any more power than that.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

- If I were to have this tuned on 91, what can be done to make the tuning a little easier to manage? Lower compression ratio? Lower power goal? I would love to have between 350 to 400 hp, but if it's not plausible to do so on 91 then I guess I'll settle for less. I'd prefer to have easy access to 91 than have to actively search for a higher octane or E85. It's just more convenient.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

- I was planning on also contacting Greg at Go-Autoworks about turbo choice based on my power goals. I've seen a couple of builds all over the internet using both turbos I've listed making the power I want. I think I might've seen some tuned on 91 or 93.

Originally Posted by KilowattBandit

- Not sure about what intercooler I should get. Maybe source one from Go-Autoworks? There's Trust/GReddy intercooler kits made specifically for the Integra but they're like $900.