Guys I have a greddy Type rs adjustable bov, I wanna know how can I tell if it's leaking boost and how do I know wat to adjust it to.
It came with 2 springs but presently I only have just 1 spring in it which is the smaller spring

 

1. You don't remove the springs at all in those particular BOVs, so put those back to their original configuration, ASAP.
2. You can tell if you're possibly leaking when you're not hitting your target boost based upon your boost gauge, and if pressure starts to reduce as you hit target boost.

The GReddy Type S bypass valve is adjustable. To make the adjustment, loosen the 10 mm nut on the top of the valve. Using a 3 mm Allen wrench, rotate the small screw in the center. Loosen it all the way out until you feel no tension on it (BOTH SPRINGS IN THE BOV). With the screw all the way flush with the top of the nut, that is fully tight.
Look at your Boost gauge. The valve will close slowly and will make a little squeak sound at the end. If it is too tight, you will hear compressor surge. Surge sounds like a "JUhh juhh juhhew" sound when you let off the throttle. It may sound cool but it will damage your turbo. That is the sound of air bouncing off the throttle plate and going back out the turbo as it is also being pumped in... too tight

But put those back to their original configuration.

 

Thank you, the reason I had taken out one of the springs is beacsue d valve had stopped opening at one point, so after taking out 1 of the springs an using some wd40 on the shaft it starred to work again, so I jus left it with one spring in, so I'm gonna put in back the other spring and see how it behaves, but I tuned the car with it like this, wud putting in back the spring an changing the adjustment affect anyting?
Is it that the valve is too soft now with 1 spring and do you think that would make it bleed off boost?

 

If it was bleeding boost and you were trying to reach a specific target, (we all are. Lol!), then adjustments were made to reach that boost.. Now let's say you were losing approximately 10psi, your boost control will be off by whatever it may have been leaking. If you put it back to stock configuration, you will almost certainly have to watch your boost gauge.

 

Ok so once it doesn't go over the boost I'm set to now after adjusting back d valve I'm good, thanks

 

OK so I replaced the spring into the bov as u suggested but after doing that when the car is at idle and I Rev the engine the bov doesn't move, it stays shut, so I adjusted the top screw to the softest possible setting, it started to blow off at stand still Rev but barely, you could feel some breeze from it if u put your hand in front of it but I didn't hear the bov at all,
What could possible cause this, I think this is why I had taken out one of the springs.
Does the bov need its own independent vacuum source to work properly? Or is the double springs jus too much

I also came across this while researching the issue

https://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles.php?tech_article_id=7

 

You have to understand, that a stock camshaft, with the vacuum that you have in this engine, you're not going to get the blow off valve to open at idle. The car has to have engine load in order for it to open properly. Continually trying to take out valve springs in order to get the sound that you want while it is revving at idle is not going to happen.

the adjustment screw is used to make sure that the valve is opening fully when you have reached Target boost pressure and is not stuttering so much when it is at Target boost pressure. It is not to adjust so that you can try and get the valve to open while you're revving to 7000 RPMs while sitting in a parking lot.

The blow off valve is fine, you're actually making things worse by messing with it any further. It is best to get an independent vacuum Source if you can, but you can not, you can "tee" off one main line connected to the intake manifold line in order to still use it properly.

 

OK, it wasn't about the sound really but I just thought the valve was suppose to open at stand still Rev, I just don't want a case where the valve is not opening as it shud an damage my turbo slowly, also what do you think about the article in the link I sent, it's saying if you don't connect the lower port on the bov to a boost source yoy should take out one of the springs, I don't have my lower port connected

 

Nah, don't worry about that lower port at all. As for the valve, you should adjust it so it is closed at idle, or at least the absolute closest you can get it to closed.. In **most** cases, you usually won't hear it blow off at idle speeds, as mentioned. You may be able to observe the valve open and close a little while revving the engine at idle, but that's about it. No need to be alarmed if you don't. Now you'll most DEFINITELY know if it isn't performing properly when under boost. There is no mistaking the flutter sound made by the turbo when combined with a faulty BOV. Lol!

 

OK, but ye I was wondering if the valve was suppose to be open at idle, also I know you won't necessarily hear the valve at stand still Rev but shudnt u see the shaft going up and down and it letting out breeze at stand still Rev

 

On some you can, others no. My Greddy FV didn't open at all on idle rev, even at it's softest setting.

 

Correct. There's also a difference as to reversion (compressor surge) vs. normal vacuum flutter (just going beyond vacuum into positive pressure). The key thing to listen for is if you here a larger flutter after the BOV sound was clearly heard. If you're just getting into positive pressure and close the throttle just as you leave vacuum and it flutters slightly, that phenomenon is perfectly normal. Hell, I can make my stock one do that on my factory turbo car.

 

Aren't ported compressor housings notorious for this one as well?

 

No. That's for a different type of surge. you're thinking of for the ported shrouds. Those are for assisting with turbulence when the compressor wheel reaches hypersonic speeds past the surge point of its adiabatic compressor map.