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Hello,
Just got a manual Civic 98 DX with probably swapped JDM engine(D16A). Can you advise me what kind of diagnostics i can do and what i might need? My question might look stupid but i have experience mainly with Renault and there you need special diagnostic tool as the regular OBD scanners do not give you much options. So software and hardware recommendations are welcome as well as simple hints/tips. Also for the D16A what is the normal compression i should expect if the engine still have resource? How i can exactly figure out whether it is having VTEC or not and if it works if there? Do not feel much of difference at wide diapason of RPM.
Thanks in advance.
I think there is no way the head is the original usdm one(as there is VTEC solenoid there ) , but may be wrong. The engine is running, i just try to address some small response and performance issues as well as the black stuff in the muffler . Thats why i need general diagnostic tips. The car is running well as far as i can say, but is probably with the long gears A000 box(as the dx should be). On the photo below you can see what the ECU have to say.
Last edited by Dark Half; Apr 6, 2020 at 06:28 AM.
I think there is no way the head is the original usdm one, but may be wrong. The engine is running, i just try to address some small response and performance issues as well as the black stuff in the muffler . Thats why i need general diagnostic tips. The car is running well as far as i can say, but is probably with the long gears A000 box(as the dx should be). On the photo below you can see what the ECU have to say.
The P2E ECU runs the D16Y7 engine that was stock for your car.
The head installed on the D16A block is from a D16Y8 or D16Y5 engine, either of which would run very poorly with the P2E ECU.
The ECU/engine mismatch would be evident if you were to pull CEL codes stored in the P2E ECU.
You can either install an ECU that matches the head or you can install a head or engine that matches the P2E ECU.
Thanks for clarifying. Whats the way than to recognize which type of head i have without opening it? Is it not the easiest swap of ECU or i m wrong? should i use standard obd reader to read the errors or i need special tool?
Thanks
Thanks for clarifying. Whats the way than to recognize which type of head i have without opening it?
One of our engine gurus should be able to tell you how to distinguish the D16Y8 and D16Y5 heads. The cams and rocker arms are different (see diagrams).
Is it not the easiest swap of ECU or i m wrong?
You need to know what head you have before swapping the ECU.
should i use standard obd reader to read the errors or i need special tool?
Thanks
Hook up an OBD2 code reader or jump the service connector and watch cluster CEL blink the codes.
Thanks, much appreciated. So after i get the idea about the head i should go for D16Y5 - P2N ECU, or if D16Y8 - P2P ECU. Lets see how expensive they are...
Thanks, much appreciated. So after i get the idea about the head i should go for D16Y5 - P2N ECU, or if D16Y8 - P2P ECU. Lets see how expensive they are...
D16Y8/P2P = performance and relatively straightforward swap
D16Y5/P2N = high fuel efficiency and very difficult swap
Yes, manual transmission. The joke is after some search and being fan of Murphy law I'm almost confident it is Y5. Got somewhere here topic about 97 p2j-3...
So probably must prepare my self for some mazohizm;-))))) The rocker rollers are the answer and now I'm afraid to open the cover and find the ugly truth
Last edited by Dark Half; Apr 7, 2020 at 06:56 AM.
Yes, manual transmission. The joke is after some search and being fan of Murphy low I'm almost confident it is Y5. Got somewhere here topic about 97 p2j-3...
So probably must prepare my self for some mazohizm;-))))) The rocker rollers are the answer and now I'm afraid to open the cover and find the ugly truth
Wait for responses from those here who will tell you the easiest way to distinguish Y5 and Y8 heads. I think chances are higher for it to be a Y8 head -- because more common.
What should be the compression value(not the ratio) of a healthy engine of these two type engines(y5 and y8), lets say from the factory, midlife and when completely worn?
Thanks