Ignition timing
Timing light and jumper the service connector: https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/hon...-timing-374867
Also, putting the distributor between in the middle of travel between max advance and max retard will get it very close to correct ignition timing to start with. However, follow the method in the link above to set it correctly to avoid any pre-detonation that may harm your engine. Once you get the ignition timing set correctly use a chisel or grease-marker to mark a notch in the distributor and cylinder head/valve cover for a quick reference point if the distributor needs to be removed in the future.
Also, putting the distributor between in the middle of travel between max advance and max retard will get it very close to correct ignition timing to start with. However, follow the method in the link above to set it correctly to avoid any pre-detonation that may harm your engine. Once you get the ignition timing set correctly use a chisel or grease-marker to mark a notch in the distributor and cylinder head/valve cover for a quick reference point if the distributor needs to be removed in the future.
Timing light and jumper the service connector: https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/hon...-timing-374867
Also, putting the distributor between in the middle of travel between max advance and max retard will get it very close to correct ignition timing to start with. However, follow the method in the link above to set it correctly to avoid any pre-detonation that may harm your engine. Once you get the ignition timing set correctly use a chisel or grease-marker to mark a notch in the distributor and cylinder head/valve cover for a quick reference point if the distributor needs to be removed in the future.
Also, putting the distributor between in the middle of travel between max advance and max retard will get it very close to correct ignition timing to start with. However, follow the method in the link above to set it correctly to avoid any pre-detonation that may harm your engine. Once you get the ignition timing set correctly use a chisel or grease-marker to mark a notch in the distributor and cylinder head/valve cover for a quick reference point if the distributor needs to be removed in the future.
I've never replaced a distributor just coil or icm.. always used oem (TCM or Hitachi) to do so. Good to enough about the aftermarket junk though.
Last edited by HR Puffinblunts; Apr 4, 2020 at 04:43 PM.
Then you have done it the right way !!! Unless you get distributor related sensor codes (TDC, CKP or CYP), changing the coil or ICM when it fails is absolutely the right call. Most dummies have a coil failure, remove the OE complete distributor and replace it with some cheap azz crap from their local auto parts store... and either use the OE dizzy as a core and give it away... or worse yet, toss it in the garbage and never look back.
I went through this last year and was fortunate to find a distributor in a local junkyard that had a healthy oem (TEC) coil and igniter.
Parts cost me $10 bucks. Looking back the distributor was only $30 so I should've purchased it because they are hard to find in a salvage yard. However, my current one is working fine.
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