Hello everyone. I just bought a 2001 civic X for super cheap not running and am trying to get it running. Car is in time, I’ve checked that. (Triple checked it)

The fuses are all good. One of the 2 relays behind the glove box that is a main relay to the fuel ignition system seemed kinda iffy so I ordered a new one. (By iffy I mean it looked like it had been removed and possible damaged)

I ran a scan tool on the car and got a crank sensor code, I’ve replaced that. Weird thing is after replacing it I still got the code but I may not have unplugged the battery to reset any codes.

im not getting spark, fuel pump comes on strong. (I replaced it with a new one)

if the relay I’ve bought doesn’t fix the issue I’m stumped as to what else it could be and just kinda wanted to start a little thread for help. I’m frustrated that I don’t know more about this stuff but am determined to learn, and unfortunately this is one of the only means I have to learn.

oh yea I checked for spark and didn’t appear to be getting any. I’d like to test again tho because after research the way I tested isn’t 100% guaranteed.

thanks for any additional help/replies

 

Come on people. No replies... really?!

 

Igniter inside of the dizzy!

 

huh?

 

No distributor on this vehicle.

 

Troubleshoot the crank sensor circuit. That's where the problem likely lies.

 

ok. I replaced the actual sensor. So that would make sense if the code is still appearing that the wires are possibly bad. But again I can’t remember if I disconnected the battery and reset the computer. I’ll try that this weekend.

 

Correct. Or the ECU is bad. First Ohm test the crank sensor wires for a short or open.

 

ok got it

 

thanks so much for your help.

 

any ideas on where to ohm test the crank sensor wires? Without cutting them where do I do it? I can’t reach the computer plug and the crank sensor wires lol it’s like 6 feet apart. (Unless I pull the wiring harness). Are their any tricks?

 

Do the Ohm test from the ECU connector.

 

i have done the following: confirmed the CKP (crank sensor) is receiving 12V on the Yellow/black wire. It’s getting about 12 volts.

howeve the brown/yellow wire ohmed out straight to the negative terminal at 43. It did not read zero. I then proceeded to ohm out the negative battery terminal to the very first ground on the chassis and it too did not ohm out. So I’m thinking the sensor is not getting a proper ground. I will continue on it tomorrow and see what happens.

if the sensor is not grounded properly will it send a faulty signal back to the computer?

 

Is the CEL code P0335?


What was the actual Ohm reading?


These diagrams may help:

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​​​​​​​the ohm reading was like 43.... 🤷🏽‍♂️

 

And yes the code was p0335 crank sensor circuit A or something like that.

 

Thanks those little step by step directions will come in useful for sure. Thankyou.

 

An Ohm reading of 43 for continuity to body ground readings is within spec, though it never hurts to clean and tighten ground connections.

 

well here’s where I’m at: I’ve tested the crank sensor for 12v; it’s good.

Also 5v alternating current (blue wire is good)

blue wire going to the Computer (slot A7) is ohming out.

does this mean the computer is bad?

also I’m wondering if the camshaft sensor would throw the same code (PO335). If so the camshaft sensor is the last option I feel before I replace the computer. Am I right about this?

 

A small update to let people know what’s going on. I chased the wires and everything is good. I replaced the sensor (unfortunately) so it’s brand new. Still wouldn’t start. So just because I had a feeling I decided to test compression. 3-4 cylinders had 0 compression.

my question is this. If I’m cranking the car and it’s not firing wouldn’t I smell gas comin out of the exhaust or does this cars knock sensor tell the ECU that it sensed the timing belt slip and sensed the valves hit and shut the fuel off?


any insight would be greatly appreciated. Also I wouldn’t mind learning exactly how the knock sensors work and what they’re use for. I know they’re used for detecting “pinging” in the engine but are they used for anything else?

oh I pulled the head and you could see where some of the valves aren’t seating properly in their seats. I’ve since torn down the head to see how everything works and at this point may just buy a different motor since they’re not much more than getting my head rebuilt.