TacoLover

hey guys,
I have a 2005 civic ex coupe with about 80k miles. The problem I'm having is the car refusing to start!

When I try to crank it, it will try to start then shut off right away. Before I get this problem, I was driving the car for about 5 minutes or so and when the car was idling at the stop sign, it turn off on me. And it's been doing this ever since then. I have been trying to figure out the problem for about a week now, but no luck!

here's what I have checked/found out so far:
- no code store in the ecu when I hook it up with the reader
- got all spark from coil on plugs when testing with HEI spark tester
- battery is ok (checked at autozone)
- all spark plugs look normal (all have less than 10k miles, ngk iridium plugs)
- fuel pump seems to be working fine. I disconnected the fuel hose from the tank under the rear seat, turn on key, and it shoots out fuel for 2 seconds. The pump and filter is brand new by the way. I thought the pump crapped out at first so I replaced it... wasted money there lol
- the two main relay switches seem to be working. I connected them to 9v battery and they are making clicking noise. They make noise when I turn on the key as well.
- no fuses blown
- no leak from fuel lines
- timing belt didn't snap on me when it turn off. It still sounds normal when I'm cranking it and the parts are moving when I took out the oil cap and looked inside.


What could the problem be? My uncle said it might be the tumbler switch, but I'm not sure about that one since I was driving it when it turn off on me. Autozone guy said to sell the car to him for 3k and he will figure out, so I tell him to continue riding his bicycle. xD

Any sensor that could go bad and cause something like this? or anything that I should try to check?

Thanks guys!!

TacoLover

ok after reading a bunch of articles about car not starting. It's probably the crankshaft position sensor that go out on my car. gonna have to take out that stubborn pulley bolt again...

It Wasn't Me

Timing belt may have slipped. Have you checked to see if it's still TDC?

Tested the battery?

Checked the fuel pressure?

The immobilizer (little green key) indicator isn't flashing, is it?

I suppose it's possible that the ignition switch is faulty. Have you tried wiggling the key to see if the car will stay running longer?

How long does it actually run? Or does it just turn over while you've got the key in the Start position, then stop immediately after you release the key?



Usually a faulty sensor will cause the MIL to illuminate, and the ECU will store a code.

emicha1

What code did you get?
Today our civic 2001 ex started shaking, didn't respond on pressing the gas pedal. Top speed was 10miles. I pulled over. Removing the ECU fuse didn’t help, but disconnecting the negative cable of the battery did. The car is fine since. Unfortunately I didn’t have with me the OBDII code reader to check the CEL.

Any Idea what could be the problem?

Thanks

It Wasn't Me

The problem was intermittent. Hard to say what it was, but if it happens again, see if you can limp it to an auto parts store and have it scanned. If you have your own scanner, keep it in the car.

TacoLover

- I haven't checked yet if the belt is still at TDC. I will work on this tomorrow and I will see if it's still at TDC.

- The battery was tested at autozone and it passed the test.

- no, I haven't tested the fuel pressure. The car won't stay on so I'm not sure of how to test this. But I think it should be ok since the pump is brand new.

- The immobilizer or the little green key isn't flashing when I turn the key to "on" position.

I tried wiggling the key, but the car still turn off on me right away. And sorry for not being clear enough when I posted the first time.

- The car just turn over when I have the key to start position then stop immediately.

I really have no clue what's going on with my car. Even when it died on me, it still sounds normal, the car just suddenly turn off on me, no shaking or anything like that. It didn't show any sign at all that something was going bad. And I have been maintaining it regularly.

emicha1

Unfortunately it is not intermittent.
It happens when is very hot outside although the temperature is normal the arrow is in the middle

TacoLover

Update: I just took everything apart. The timing belt is still at TDC. I also rotated the belt about 5-6 revolutions just to make sure.

gonna try testing the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor next. I hope one of the sensors is bad or something... lol

Also, is it safe to crank the car while the alternator belt is off? Only belt that is on the car right now is the timing belt. I don't want to mess anything else up...

Thanks!

emicha1

how you are paning to test the cam and crank sensors?
yes it is safe to crank the car without the alternator belt.

TacoLover

thanks!

I'm gonna use an ohm meter to test it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ws8EVQ6NjE

I will replace the crankshaft sensor anyway though since I already ordered it off the net. I have been reading around civic forums and it seems like the crank sensor is a common issue with the 7th gen civic.

TacoLover

Finally found the problem. It's the crankshaft sensor that's bad. Tested it with ohm meter and it was bad. Unplugged the thing and the car start right up.

It's odd that it didn't show any code on this...

It Wasn't Me

Definitely odd. You'd think it'd throw a code.

Thanks for the update! It may come in handy for other members who experience the same symptoms. (or lack of)

emicha1

Is there any way to test the camshaft and crankshaft sensors without removing the timing belt cover?
Thanks

technic05

There should be a crankshaft position sensor subharness connector on the motor. If you have a FSM you should be able to locate it and hook up your ohm meter to it.