Civic overheating (detailed)
Hi all, I’m new here and I live in cold climate and I have bought a 2005 Honda Civic ex coupe with the D17a2 DOHC/SOHC VTEC 1.7L engine. After a week upon a private party sale, when I bring up the problems to the guy I bought it from he doesn’t answer no calls or texts and I pretty much bought it as is. I have dealt with overheating problems with another car once (2006 Buick Lucerne v8) and I had fixed the overheating issue by replacing thermostat, radiator, and using the proper dex cool coolant. What I notice mainly about my civic overheating is that 1) the heater works fine before it overheated so heater core isn’t clogged 2) the pressure from the engine makes the engine coolant spit out of the radiator cap when attempting to bleed air out of the system. I was told that there could be a hole somewhere internally in the engine block or a pressure leak and was told I should just get a new engine. Water pump and timing belt have been replaced at 110k. The vehicle has 178k at the moment. I’m about to try and buy some stop leak and put it in the radiator and see if it works as it did nothing for my buck because there was no crack in the block or hole. I don’t think there is one in the civic either.
- heater blows cold (used to blow hot when accelerating past 40mph but when stopped or slowing down it goes cold again) this was when I first got it
- coolant spits out and steams out of radiator cap
top radiator hose is hot while bottom remains cold
- no white smoke coming from out of exhaust but engine heavily smokes up / steams up from radiator cap
- I’ve had smelt burnt rubber smells and syrupy smells
while I don’t want to spend 2500 to get a new engine installed, I would like to see what else I can do to resolve my issue. It seems like coolant isn’t being circulated properly in my opinion. Is there anything I can do to diagnose the water pump? I’ve never dealt for replaced one myself before (although it looks fairly simple) I’ve already replaced my thermostat and radiator (radiator had a hole in it by the cap)
- heater blows cold (used to blow hot when accelerating past 40mph but when stopped or slowing down it goes cold again) this was when I first got it
- coolant spits out and steams out of radiator cap
top radiator hose is hot while bottom remains cold
- no white smoke coming from out of exhaust but engine heavily smokes up / steams up from radiator cap
- I’ve had smelt burnt rubber smells and syrupy smells
while I don’t want to spend 2500 to get a new engine installed, I would like to see what else I can do to resolve my issue. It seems like coolant isn’t being circulated properly in my opinion. Is there anything I can do to diagnose the water pump? I’ve never dealt for replaced one myself before (although it looks fairly simple) I’ve already replaced my thermostat and radiator (radiator had a hole in it by the cap)
Unfortunately, those engines are known for head gasket failures. A pressure test will confirm if it really is. Do not use stop leak of any kind anywhere in your engine or radiator. It would gum up your thermostat and water pump.
Yes the test will tell you. Another tell tale sign is coolant mixing with the oil- what they call a milkshake. Light brown in color.
I can't see inside your engine and don't know the extent of the overheating. At the very least the cylinder head would need to be resurfaced since it would most likely be warped from overheating. It ensures a proper mating surface for the head gasket.
It is not to say every d17 engine will suffer the same fate. You would check the junkyard/pick n pull for one and have it tested before buying. I don't think any other Honda engine would work without custom motor mounts, etc because the d17 was the only engine available for that generation of civics.
Imo, the cost of the repair could outweigh the car. These cars have a low value and aren't sought after in the Honda community. Unless you have some friends that can help you, or a good shop that will give you a deal- it might not even be worth fixing if the damage is severe. Diagnose first and go from there.
I can't see inside your engine and don't know the extent of the overheating. At the very least the cylinder head would need to be resurfaced since it would most likely be warped from overheating. It ensures a proper mating surface for the head gasket.
It is not to say every d17 engine will suffer the same fate. You would check the junkyard/pick n pull for one and have it tested before buying. I don't think any other Honda engine would work without custom motor mounts, etc because the d17 was the only engine available for that generation of civics.
Imo, the cost of the repair could outweigh the car. These cars have a low value and aren't sought after in the Honda community. Unless you have some friends that can help you, or a good shop that will give you a deal- it might not even be worth fixing if the damage is severe. Diagnose first and go from there.
I'm 99% sure you have a blown head gasket. I had the same symptoms.
The problem with the d17 is that the typical head gasket tests don't show problems. Testing the coolant doesn't always work. Milkshake doesn't happen. I got the car for free, so I had the head resurfaced and HG replaced. Cost me 1250 for it, but the car was in good shape otherwise.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...e-etc-2889523/
Is a good thread to read.
The only engine that will fit this car would be a k series, and that'll cost a lot. You'll need a new engine, transmission wiring harness custom mounts, and some other stuff to make it work.
The problem with the d17 is that the typical head gasket tests don't show problems. Testing the coolant doesn't always work. Milkshake doesn't happen. I got the car for free, so I had the head resurfaced and HG replaced. Cost me 1250 for it, but the car was in good shape otherwise.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...e-etc-2889523/
Is a good thread to read.
The only engine that will fit this car would be a k series, and that'll cost a lot. You'll need a new engine, transmission wiring harness custom mounts, and some other stuff to make it work.
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