Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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Default B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

About a month ago, I got my block and crank back from the machine shop (I had the crank polished and balanced) and I just started to assemble it yesterday. After I torqued down all the caps, I went to try to turn the crank by hand and it wouldn't budge at all. I did torque it in the correct sequence and I started with 22 ft lbs and then 56 ft lbs. I'm using arp main studs if that makes a difference. I did check the clearances today and everything appears to be at 0.0015''. Any help is appreciated!
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:14 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

Arp main studs, did you have it line honed?
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:16 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

Originally Posted by BiggieBert
Arp main studs, did you have it line honed?
I don't believe so, this is my first time building a motor and everyone I asked never mentioned that.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

That is likely your issue.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:45 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

Originally Posted by BiggieBert
That is likely your issue.
Ok, I will go ahead and get that done, thank you for the help!
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 09:53 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

You can have it verified with a dial bore gauge before committing to the work.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 11:23 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

Did you apply assembly grease to contact points when you installed the crankshaft into the block?
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Old Feb 5, 2020 | 10:56 AM
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Default Re: B18B1 crank won't turn after torquing down main caps

When you install arp main studs you ll always have to line bore or it’ll throw it out of whack cause of the clamp force it’s the reason why you need to line hone it.

you should have stayed stock main bolts it’s just more money you got to spend where it’s not needed unless you goin full blown race. But even full blown I’ve seen some use the stock just fine. It’s the rod bolts that need to be upgraded.

also always use plastigauge to measure your bearings clearance or get a shop to measure for you so you know your within spec.

The most critical part of building is the bearings clearance, ring gaps and P2W clearance. Get those spot on and you won’t have to tear down the block again.
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