So I bought a 91 DX hatch that had a vtec swap already with a y8 head and a zc block. The engine needed replaced and I found a low mileage z6 and installed it. Most everything switched over ok except I had some missing emissions equipment but I decided to try it anyway and it took a lot of cranking but eventually it fired up and seemed to run beautifully. I shut it off and topped up the coolant and now it won't start. I checked for spark and that seemed fine, then I pulled the fuel rail and cranked it and there wasn't any fuel coming out. I cracked the bolt at the filter and it had pressure. What might cause it to not start? Here are some pics of the stuff that is missing that I don't know what to do with. I think I'm missing the charcoal canister? And where does this hose for the Evap purge control solenoid valve go? Also this part is not wired up and it looks like the connector for it was cutoff. And what is this fitting coming out of the firewall for? And the throttle body? Would these missing parts cause it to not run even though it did run initially? Please help if you have any insight.

 

All three lines run to the charcoal canister, which you apparently don't have. Firewall line vents the fuel tank to the canister to capture vapor, purge solenoid actuates the valve on top of the canister, which then feeds the vapor into the throttle body. The throttle body line needs capped to prevent a vacuum leak. The purge solenoid is unnecessary if you don't have a canister. The firewall line is more complicated, since ideally you wouldn't want to seal it off and build too much pressure in your fuel tank, but leaving it open may cause some smell. Lacking this system might also cause trouble in certain areas with stricter emissions or inspection laws.

This should not cause you to have no fuel at the rail - that is a separate issue.

 

Thanks, I'm going to get a canister and hook it up. In theory my test to pull the fuel rail should have worked right? Its all hooked up of course.

 

Assuming everything is hooked up correctly, then fuel should have been in the rail, yes. Did you check the input for the fuel filter or the output? I'd be impressed if your filter is completely clogged, but with 30 year old fuel lines it's not impossible.

 

The filter is relatively new. I suspect its something less obvious than a clog of some kind.

 

Either your filter/fuel line is clogged or your fuel pump isn’t working properly.

You said when you disconnected the fuel line from the filter you got fuel pressure - did you measure it with a gauge or just a visual “yep there’s gas”?

Do you hear your fuel pump priming when key is on?

 

Ef shot gun thread

drop the tank and clean 30 years of crap
air blow the pump and fuel lines out
buy new strainer
hold off on the pump *if u want 2
try it again

that should be a
“you just put together
a 30 year old car starter pack”

try a new ecu
Only the fuel circit in the ecu can bad
*says an auto electric shop
try it again

 

Yeah scratch that comment about having fuel pressure. I don't. It just leaked out a little. I don't hear any priming either. I just watched a youtube video about checking the fuel system. It could be the fuel pump relay. It took a really longtime for it to start when it did, like the battery almost died. But it seemed to run great once it fired up. I tried again last night and there is no fuel at the filter. The gauge reads 1/4 tank. It sat for about a year and a half but this car has been pretty thoroughly refreshed, Its not a car that sat for years and years.

 

It’s 2020 man
that car was produced
what year again?

 

That's not a long time but like efmysedan is saying, the poor thing isn't new. Pull the rear seat and the sending unit and see if you can get a look in the tank. If you see much scale at all, go straight to dropping the tank. Pump may be salvageable but you'll need to get everything cleaned out regardless.

 

Yeah I'm certainly not ruling anything out, I plan to go thru the fuel system. I bought this as a non running car ( i actually was able to get it running right after I got it but it sounded very unhealthy) so I didn't know this was an issue. I never did even diagnose what was wrong with the old engine I just took the seller's word that it was blown. This was my first start up Sunday night. I thought I was out of the woods on this project but having only a foggy understanding of what goes into a swap like this it feels like there could be so many possible causes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QaY...ature=youtu.be

 

Swap the motor d16y7 or d16b7 i forget is the easiest swap you can do

 

Seems legit. Having fuel delivery problems?

Engine swap is the obvious solution. LOL this guy.

EDIT: just saw the YouTube clip, was one wheel turning faster than the other? Or what were you trying to show? Did you get your fuel issues resolved?

 

Leaving this one un-capped is not ideal, but will not cause a vacuum leak, as it is pre-throttle plate.

Along with checking your main relay, you should pull your ECU and look for any swollen or leaking electrolytic capacitors. I would recommend going ahead and replacing them, even if they look fine. If they've leaked and the electrolyte has stained / eaten into the board, your best bet is to find a new ECU.

 

So I got back to this project recently but now I'm more stumped than ever. I've got no priming when I turn the key. I've tired three main relays, 2 used and one new. If I jump the main relay harness blk/yewllow- yellow/blk it primes. If I turn the key with the relay in my hand I feel it click but there is no priming. I thought I found the problem to be a faulty fuel pump but the new one didn't fix it and the old one worked fine when I tested it out of the car. I thought maybe the p28 ECU was bad so I replaced that and still the same condition. So can I run the car with the main relay harness jumped or will that fry something? I don't have the fuel tank completely reinstalled yet but I have it all wired up. Just thought I'd ask before I tried running it like that.

 

It will work, but it probably won't be good for the pump long term since it will run constantly.
It seems likely that there is some issue with the wiring. Have you checked the ground points?

 

Yes, I cleaned up the thermostat ground but it didn't change anything.

 

There are more grounds than that.
Battery to frame / frame to transmission.
Valve cover to front clip (assuming that's still there).
But the one I would be most suspicious of is under the dash, driver side behind the main relay.
This link applies to a CRX, but the ground points up front are all the same.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...SH200/16-8.pdf