B16a 450 hp on pump 93?
so im rebuilding my b16a in a few weeks to hopefully make 400-450 hp on pump 93 since i cant get e85 in my area and its is going to be a street car.I have been reading threads and people have mixed opinions on that hp with pump gas and stock sleeves so i just want to hear what you guys think.
INTERNALS:
wiesco 8.9:1 pistons
crower h-beam rods
super tech springs and retainers
arp hardware all around
cometic headgasket .040”
stock crank
stock cams
stock valves
stock sleeves
FUEL:
deatschewerks 1000cc injectors
walbro 255
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
TURBO SYSTEM:
ebay gt3582 (ported housings)
2.5” piping
mishimoto j line intercooler
cast log style manifold
38mm wastegate
full 3” exhaust
hks blow off vale
ELECTRONICS:
hondata s300
mac 4 port boost controller
hondata boost by gear
hondata 4 port map sensor
INTERNALS:
wiesco 8.9:1 pistons
crower h-beam rods
super tech springs and retainers
arp hardware all around
cometic headgasket .040”
stock crank
stock cams
stock valves
stock sleeves
FUEL:
deatschewerks 1000cc injectors
walbro 255
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
TURBO SYSTEM:
ebay gt3582 (ported housings)
2.5” piping
mishimoto j line intercooler
cast log style manifold
38mm wastegate
full 3” exhaust
hks blow off vale
ELECTRONICS:
hondata s300
mac 4 port boost controller
hondata boost by gear
hondata 4 port map sensor
Three potential bottlenecks to reach your goal:
- Stock cams - B16A cams are the smallest. Skunk2 Pro 1 or GSC T1 will allow you to make more power throughout the curve. ITR/CTR/Tuner 1 as a minimum
- Log manifold - B16A needs all the help it can get to make good pump gas numbers due to the displacement and a log manifold doesn't promote high rpm flow and efficiency
- Ebay GT3582 - if the quality is good and the wheel profiles are correct it will support your goal, if not the results will be dissapointing
so im rebuilding my b16a in a few weeks to hopefully make 400-450 hp on pump 93 since i cant get e85 in my area and its is going to be a street car.I have been reading threads and people have mixed opinions on that hp with pump gas and stock sleeves so i just want to hear what you guys think.
INTERNALS:
wiesco 8.9:1 pistons
crower h-beam rods
super tech springs and retainers
arp hardware all around
cometic headgasket .040”
stock crank
stock cams
stock valves
stock sleeves
FUEL:
deatschewerks 1000cc injectors
walbro 255
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
TURBO SYSTEM:
ebay gt3582 (ported housings)
2.5” piping
mishimoto j line intercooler
cast log style manifold
38mm wastegate
full 3” exhaust
hks blow off vale
ELECTRONICS:
hondata s300
mac 4 port boost controller
hondata boost by gear
hondata 4 port map sensor
INTERNALS:
wiesco 8.9:1 pistons
crower h-beam rods
super tech springs and retainers
arp hardware all around
cometic headgasket .040”
stock crank
stock cams
stock valves
stock sleeves
FUEL:
deatschewerks 1000cc injectors
walbro 255
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
TURBO SYSTEM:
ebay gt3582 (ported housings)
2.5” piping
mishimoto j line intercooler
cast log style manifold
38mm wastegate
full 3” exhaust
hks blow off vale
ELECTRONICS:
hondata s300
mac 4 port boost controller
hondata boost by gear
hondata 4 port map sensor
2nd.. Boost by gear is not necessary for purely street driven vehicle. Pain in the *** to dial in and makes a moderate HP street ride SOOOO bland. I tried it for a bit on roughly 400hp and did not like it.. It seemed incredibly limiting..
3rd.. Those 8.9 comp pistons combined with that .040 headgasket is gonna make for a SLUGGISH bottom end, depending a bit also on some of those turbo specs. Unless there's a reason you need one that thick? Or if possible, rethink the CR on those pistons.
4th.. What Extremeracer said.
Lastly, Larger injectors and a bigger fuel pump.. 450 pump fed is really pushing the envelope for safe tune on stock sleeves. Largely due to the more aggressive timing it will require. I am, myself, a bit nervous about where I am on timing - 15.25 degrees @24.5psi 6800rpm.. I am also pump fed 93, but D-series. Also on max bore (76mm stock sleeves) Lol. I am also not at 450hp either. Butt dyno feels it out to around 390-410. You would probably be pushing around 18deg to hit your mark. You're gonna want to pray you never lean out up top. Lol!
Agree with TxDragon on the compression thing. Even though you need to be mindful of compression considering the 93 Octane usage, B16's in particular want and need compression to keep them responsive. ~9.5:1 would be a better option, your tuner will need to use boost rather than ignition timing to make the power.
Be prepared for top-end focused power delivery with a B16 and GT35 combo. It will be rather flat up until 6000rpm and then scream to 9000+ assuming you upgrade the cams.
Perhaps a DW340 fuel pump would be a better option - still drop-in fitment but more flow than a 255
Be prepared for top-end focused power delivery with a B16 and GT35 combo. It will be rather flat up until 6000rpm and then scream to 9000+ assuming you upgrade the cams.
Perhaps a DW340 fuel pump would be a better option - still drop-in fitment but more flow than a 255
I agree that stock cams will some sort of a holdback. As far as the cast log manifold goes i think im going to do my best to port it out just to help get rid of the casting marks. The gt35 is true in size i measured it with calipers and the wheels were the right size. i really appreciate the input man.
the car made 350 with nippon 9.1:1 cast pistons with the same gt35 i am going to use... we were just afraid to push it hard on pump due to the possibility of cracking a ringland.
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Agree with TxDragon on the compression thing. Even though you need to be mindful of compression considering the 93 Octane usage, B16's in particular want and need compression to keep them responsive. ~9.5:1 would be a better option, your tuner will need to use boost rather than ignition timing to make the power.
Be prepared for top-end focused power delivery with a B16 and GT35 combo. It will be rather flat up until 6000rpm and then scream to 9000+ assuming you upgrade the cams.
Perhaps a DW340 fuel pump would be a better option - still drop-in fitment but more flow than a 255
Be prepared for top-end focused power delivery with a B16 and GT35 combo. It will be rather flat up until 6000rpm and then scream to 9000+ assuming you upgrade the cams.
Perhaps a DW340 fuel pump would be a better option - still drop-in fitment but more flow than a 255
1st.. Ditch the AEM regulator and get an Aeromotive. More reasons why than I care to list right now. Lol!
2nd.. Boost by gear is not necessary for purely street driven vehicle. Pain in the *** to dial in and makes a moderate HP street ride SOOOO bland. I tried it for a bit on roughly 400hp and did not like it.. It seemed incredibly limiting..
3rd.. Those 8.9 comp pistons combined with that .040 headgasket is gonna make for a SLUGGISH bottom end, depending a bit also on some of those turbo specs. Unless there's a reason you need one that thick? Or if possible, rethink the CR on those pistons.
4th.. What Extremeracer said.
Lastly, Larger injectors and a bigger fuel pump.. 450 pump fed is really pushing the envelope for safe tune on stock sleeves. Largely due to the more aggressive timing it will require. I am, myself, a bit nervous about where I am on timing - 15.25 degrees @24.5psi 6800rpm.. I am also pump fed 93, but D-series. Also on max bore (76mm stock sleeves) Lol. I am also not at 450hp either. Butt dyno feels it out to around 390-410. You would probably be pushing around 18deg to hit your mark. You're gonna want to pray you never lean out up top. Lol!
2nd.. Boost by gear is not necessary for purely street driven vehicle. Pain in the *** to dial in and makes a moderate HP street ride SOOOO bland. I tried it for a bit on roughly 400hp and did not like it.. It seemed incredibly limiting..
3rd.. Those 8.9 comp pistons combined with that .040 headgasket is gonna make for a SLUGGISH bottom end, depending a bit also on some of those turbo specs. Unless there's a reason you need one that thick? Or if possible, rethink the CR on those pistons.
4th.. What Extremeracer said.
Lastly, Larger injectors and a bigger fuel pump.. 450 pump fed is really pushing the envelope for safe tune on stock sleeves. Largely due to the more aggressive timing it will require. I am, myself, a bit nervous about where I am on timing - 15.25 degrees @24.5psi 6800rpm.. I am also pump fed 93, but D-series. Also on max bore (76mm stock sleeves) Lol. I am also not at 450hp either. Butt dyno feels it out to around 390-410. You would probably be pushing around 18deg to hit your mark. You're gonna want to pray you never lean out up top. Lol!
Did they say why they recommend a 40?
I got 9.0:1 CP pistons in a D16Z6. I had the block decked and head resurfaced, I used a JE headgasket at .030 thick. Should have put me to around 9.2:1 or so. I'm not sure how thick the stock gasket is for your B16.. However, the thinner the gasket, the higher the compression will be. You may need that thicker HG depending on how much block and head material you have removed when machined and depending on the compression height of those pistons.
Did they say why they recommend a 40?
Did they say why they recommend a 40?
in the wiesco catalog i ordered from it just said .040 headgasket recomended... im just assuming the design the pistons to be 8.9:1 with a .040 headgasket and if you prefer to have slightly higher compression then you can use a .030 heasgasket. i had the head resurfaced when i rebuilt my motor last year. When i take it to get bored to 81.5 i will get it decked and get a few more compression points but i just came to the conclusion that it will be weak out of boost. My tuner also said that anywhere from 8.5:1-9.1:1 would be ideal for high boost and pump gas so i just hope the engine works how i want it too.
Because of your tuner's recommendations, being weaknout of boost is exactly what will happen. Sometimes the catalog is just playing it safe and isn't helping you get what you want out of this. Torque from a fuel that has creates low BTUs of energy that forces you to be conservative on ignition timing to make a an hp number instead of focusing on the toque level and purpose of the car.
Absolutely. Get a .030" gasket or OEM .028" Gasket. Get a much smaller turbo. You're going to get blue flagged to allow people to pass because of such a large turbo, regardless of what size housings you use.. Get back down to the GT(X)28R or GT(X)30R family-sized turbos. A solid 320whp-350whp is all you need. You DO NOT NEED 450whp on an amateur circuit racing.
Absolutely. Get a .030" gasket or OEM .028" Gasket. Get a much smaller turbo. You're going to get blue flagged to allow people to pass because of such a large turbo, regardless of what size housings you use.. Get back down to the GT(X)28R or GT(X)30R family-sized turbos. A solid 320whp-350whp is all you need. You DO NOT NEED 450whp on an amateur circuit racing.
That is why turbocharger selection should be considered as important as what you put into the engine block/head to get desired results.
350whp on a GT35R is nothing compared to 350whp+ on a smaller turbocharger. The difference is absolutely incredible. Especially for a street car, which very much has a lot more in common to your street dreams outside of what you have now. The amount of torque throughout the powerband would be much better with a smaller turbocharger than with that big ugly 35R. Especially with such a small displacement.
That is why turbocharger selection should be considered as important as what you put into the engine block/head to get desired results.
That is why turbocharger selection should be considered as important as what you put into the engine block/head to get desired results.
Tons of options nowadays, but something in the 48lbs/min to 52lbs/min would be ideal. Since you already have a ball-bearing CHRA that is water-cooled, you can stick with that or go to a water-oil cooled Journal bearing unit also. what type of turbine housing are you using? T3 4 bolt? T4 4-bolt? v-band (TiaL).? Maybe?
Tons of options nowadays, but something in the 48lbs/min to 52lbs/min would be ideal. Since you already have a ball-bearing CHRA that is water-cooled, you can stick with that or go to a water-oil cooled Journal bearing unit also. what type of turbine housing are you using? T3 4 bolt? T4 4-bolt? v-band (TiaL).? Maybe?
350whp on a GT35R is nothing compared to 350whp+ on a smaller turbocharger. The difference is absolutely incredible. Especially for a street car, which very much has a lot more in common to your street dreams outside of what you have now. The amount of torque throughout the powerband would be much better with a smaller turbocharger than with that big ugly 35R. Especially with such a small displacement.
That is why turbocharger selection should be considered as important as what you put into the engine block/head to get desired results.
That is why turbocharger selection should be considered as important as what you put into the engine block/head to get desired results.
Bring the sizing down, widen the power curve, make the car more enjoyable...and also pairs a turbo that performs "better" with a short cast manifold.
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