I swapped an obd1 b16a3 into a 97 del sol si shell. Im using the obd1 harness, obd1 ecu but getting code 14 iacv which wasnt an issue before the swap. THe idle does jump up and down with light pressure on the gas peddle I have a 3 wire iacv green/white yellow/white red/blue wires. Im thinking its a wiring issue because like I said the swap ran fine in the donor car. I dont know if it matters but it was also an automatic converted to manual

 

The B16A intake manifold uses a 2-wire IACV... the OBD-1 ECU does not support the 3-wire IACV, so you will have to use the B16A style IACV and swap the black/blue wire at the ECU plug from position 14 to 12 if you haven't already done so.

 

I was wrong I looked at the wrong connector. It is a 2 wire iacv, Im using all obd1 engine, harness, ecu. So it idles fine but the problem is when I give light pressure on the gas it starts surging up and down and when driving it makes it start jumping as if you were tapping on/off the gas peddle. I dont know if its the iacv valve but that is the cel

 

What colors are the two wires in the plug that is connected to your IACV sensor ? Have you tried another "Known Good" IACV sensor ?

 

I have not tried another one. I was looking to see what other iacv would be compatible with my b16a3. Will a d series work or another b series? I doubt I will find a b16 at pullapart

 

Does the B16A3 have a FITV on the throttle body? If the large screw inside that backs out, it will cause a surging idle. Just a thought...

 

If everything is factory on the B16A3, yes... it would have a FITV.

 

Still cant figure this out. With constant/light throttle pressure I am getting a bucking/jerking. It happens at idle and while driving it goes away if I release throttle or accelerate but constant pressure results in the car jerking. I tried unplugging the iacv and the problem is still there so Ive ruled that out. Do you think this could be the tps going bad?

 

Heres a question if Im using the obd1 harness and obd1 ecu do I need to do the 3 to 2 wire iacv fix at the ecu?

 

Maybe... it depends on the adapter harness that you are using. This is why it is necessary to check continuity between the blue/black wire of the IACV plug and the OBD-1 ECU plug at pin location A9. IF your OBD-2A -> OBD-1 adapter harness is a quality one, the wire at A9 on the ECU end should split into two wires that terminate at the chassis ECU plug side at both A12 and A14. This would accommodate either a two or three wire IACV. If it doesn't, then you need to work back from the IACV plug end to find out where the break is.