Just really wanting to know what are some really good combos, I just purchased darton sleeves 81mm-84mm, the turbo is not really a big turbo it's a 51mm borg warner, 70mm throttle body, skunk2 street series ultra intake, I've been back and forth for which pistons and rods would be good to run, just really wouldn't some more feed back and some more insight on my build, thank you

 

you should really post in the correct section.


"Forced Induction"

 

Yeah I f***ed up now I cant find a way to delete it ! 😤😡😤

 

Wiseco, CP, Arias, JE... As long as it's a forged piston it won't really matter. Aim for the 10:1 -> 11:1 compression ratio, assuming you're using 91/93 octane fuel or better.

Same thing with rods. K1, Manley, Pauter, etc... Just get a quality H beam rod with ARP 2000 bolts.

Note that Borg Warner turbos, even the smaller units, tend to have large framed housings and CHRA. If you're trying to boos and keep your AC, you'll likely have issues. If you don't have air conditioning or are removing it, you may be fine depending on what manifold you use and downpipe, etc.

Edit: Here's a Protip, when you're ready to put down the money for the turbo kit, contact Greg from Go-Autoworks. He and his shop is basically the de-facto place now for quality Honda turbo components. He's also active on these forums and one of the best sources for good customer service and advice.

 

CP 9:1/9.7:1 and Eagle Rods have been the staple of Honda B-series performance for ages. As ChanceEG said any of the popular brand name forged turbo pistons will work.
The CP's come with a .200 wrist pin so they allow lots of room for growth (horsepower) but you pay more for that. Manley/Eagle/BC H-beam rods can all be had under $400 from selected vendors at the moment and will provide a stout bottom end for the average 300 - 600 whp user.

Once you go over 600whp, I'd look into heavier rod options like I-Beam Manley's or upgraded fasteners for BC H-beams etc.

 

Pretty much any shelf piston or rod will be good to 700-800 whp. Some of them are rated for around 600 but it's common these days for them to hold up in the 7 to 800 range. Speedfactory currently has their house H beams on sale for $300 shipped which is not a bad deal and they're rated for 900.

 

What is the end power goal for your build? That will determine what’s best. I’m using a set of Skunk2 rods and 10.1.1 JE turbo pistons, but I’m limited to 800-900 hp unless I change out my rods. If I had a sleeved block I would look into some very beefy rods

 

Nobody that runs a track car making 800+ wheel HP is running Chinese (Eagle, Crower Sportsman, CXRacing, Skunk2, Speed Factory, etc.) Steel rods... they are either using high end steel rods like Manley Turbo Tuff, Crower Billet, Pauter, Carrillo, Saenz or an Aluminum rod... I personally just witnessed a pair of Eagle rods free themselves from the confines of an H22A on the dyno at 700 whp... proof that trying to save a few hundred bucks on the rods will cost you THOUSANDS on the rebuild when they fail !!!

 

if they made the turbo tuff rods for D-series, I'd be all over those like Oprah on a cupcake!

 

ill agree with that. however, there are a number of street cars with shelf piston/h beam rods making into the 700s and havent had issues. if its strictly a drag car, or an engine that makes alot of torque (h22, k24, etc) i agree, no need to skimp. spend the extra money on big wrist pins and quality i-beam rods.

 

I ran off the shelf turbo tuff rods and off the shelf CP pistons. Car made 1079whp and lasted 5 years of track abuse.

 

Those companies in the parenthesis are Chinese/Chinese made? TIL...

 

Yes.

 

I agree that if you are going to shoot for over 700 it would be in the best interest to invest in some really good rods, but at the same time I’ve seen very high end rod come though blocks way under 700. The tune makes all the difference, which is why your seeing stock rods that look like toothpicks putting down 400+ these days. These is no room for error unless you buy the better stuff.

 

High RPM hondas ,compared to the other motors, attack the rod bolts more than the rods.
Best VFM high hp combo is whatever h-beam rods with 625plus rod bolts.
On the piston side of things CPs are perfect for the last 10 years or so.
For that 51mm turbo well you can pick any piston rod combo and call it a day.

 

The door is being opened, ever so slightly here over brand name vs unknown vs reliability. Skunk2, Manley, Speedfactory, P2P0, etc.. These are companies that *may* outsource manufacturing but, they have also ALL proven themselves time and time again. My current rods are Skunk2 and on 2 of them, I noticed some hot spots that had developed at the wrist pin from the last build (at some point, no telling when). Had them reconditioned and am running them now, with zero issue (this far), in a build pushing more power easily.. If they WERE made in China, they've proven pretty damn tough to date. Although still a smaller portion, reliability depends pretty heavily upon end user installation. Either way you slice it, reliability is not totally and entirely product quality. You can take an industry leading anything and turn it to **** really fast if you install it improperly.

 

i have great succes with eagle rods ( up to 900hp ) and wiseco pistons at me and my friends. best bang 4 your buck. most important is ur tune. u can destroy everything at 400hp

 

Wow I appreciate you guys giving me really good advice, I took a bit of what everyone had said so this is what I got over the past week or so.

•Cp 81mm 9.0:1
•Manley turbo tuff 1- beam rods
•acl main bearings
•acl rod bearings
•arp main studs

I would to in the future be at 700-800hp but for now I would at least manage to make 400hp I'll be pretty happy if I reach that at least, also havent dug into the head ye, so I'm not too sure what I would hold the power, i heard the the skunk2 turbo valve springs are good, I'll be still using my stock camshafts for the moment, and maybe the valves untill I can really start to put money into the head one day.

 

the manifold I'll be running for this turbo a speedfactory t4 top mount, stainless steel.

 

I’m running a PLM manifold which is almost identical to the one you bought..... should work great! I’ve have a cam / springs / retainers and my car made 460whp @ around 13-15 psi. Should give you a idea of what to expect

 

JE Proseal head gasket and some head studs also

 

I was thinking of adding cams, I was thinking about some skunk2 cams ? Are those worth it ? And also valve springs and retainers? And should I do the valve guides and such ?

 

you should read through my build thread, I’m using skunk2 pro1 cams along with the best skunk2 valves and spring/ retainers and LMA’s

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/turbolscrx-making-my-return-fold-3325704/
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I hadn't thought about it until I came across an advertisement on a webpage but, SCAT rods are still available for Honda. For a D-ssries, they are nicely priced. Didn't look into the other platforms though.

 

If this is turning into a build thread of parts for ChubluDC2, then this should be locked so he can start his own thread. The main query to this thread title has been answered..