I don't have experience attempting this combination, but have someone interested in attempting it as they already have the manifold and a local guy is selling a GT28 for a good price, but it's internally gated.

Anyone have any idea if we'd be able to actually clock the turbo to where it's needed? Could obviously just throw a block off plate for the 38mm flange on the mani, but if the internal gate and actuator of the turbo are guaranteed to get in the way, then IMO it's not worth us taking a risk on the purchase if we're already guaranteed to have to screw around with welding the IWG shut and converting to EWG.

I'm assuming there's a reason why I never see this combo offered or used. Any insight appreciated, I basically don't want to screw with this unless there's a known quick/easy fix.

 

You can get a downpipe flage get a sch40 pipe, cut a ~2cm ring. Then cut the ring in half or less to make a U shaped piece like a main bearing.
Weld that U piece on the downpipe flange to block the gases to go back to the exhaust. After that you make a hole above the wastegate flap and weld a 1.5" sch10 wastegate dumptube.
The height/width of the ring youll cut from the sch40 pipe will have to be so much that once welded on the downpipe flage and flange bolted to the turbo it will touch the turbine housing so gases wont escape
towards the exhaust.

And you cant clock the turbo since the actuator bracket is on the compressor housing. You can only clock the CHRA oil and water holes.

 

Best visualisation after 3 min on paint haha. The "bridge" part of the paint is the exhaust gases block U shape im talking about.
The height must be enough to touch the turbine housing when bolted. Its much easier that it looks to make if you have an angle grinder and a welder. just get stainless steel rods if youll mma it.
Oh and it makes 3769025 times more sense from welding the flap closed and buying an extra external wastegate...All internal wastegates have excellent ~45 degree gas exit angle.

 

Thanks Balor, appreciate the info very much

 

An issue is flange pattern and gate bracket orientation for clearance fitment...then making a "nice" downpipe entry (which is simple on a non a/c config where you have a lot of room).
Assuming the cast log is T3/r8mm flanged then you are also throwing a T2 to T3 adapter in the mix. That's a lot to try to force something to work; making that deal not so great of a deal.
A simpler solution would be to put a T3 housing on the GT28 and run an external gate allowing it all to just bolt up...but to do that you're also basically adding $500 to the cost of the turbo. I'd spend that $500 for a "simple bolt up" for ease of operation and installation.