I will attempt to post all my progress I do Youtube and with people now and days they really dont like to see the whole progress but here im able to post some pictures and ideas I have. Please enjoy!!

Vehicle: 1990 Honda Civic DX
Engine Code: D15B2
Mileage: 240k
Mods: Suspension, Wheels
Future Mods: Y8 Head conversion, Turbo on 9PSI

Inspiration:
I have a 99 Civic Sedan and I turbo'd the car and it was great I could not figure out why it was over heating and I finally bought a gates water pump, head gasket, and dual core rad. When I was removing the head I noticed between cylinder 2,3 right on the piston wall there was a big chunk of block missing so the engine was screwed. I look and look for a block I could just throw in and instead I found a Acura that was T boned with a b18b1 manual five speed for $400!! So I though he I have a d15b2 and a good y8 head why not do a mini me!! so now I got my self in a mess lol. I will post what I have done so far and if you enjoy projects Please check out my channel.

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/gogettergarage
Instagram: @gogettergarage



This is the stock D15b2

The engine was a complete mess!

I think the transmission was WORSE!

After Hours of scrubbing this is was I was left with

This what the engine looked like after being clean

I got the head off and prep'd for paint

I installed the ARP head bolts and noticed they will not work for the build

When you are doing this swap only one Y8/Y7 bolt will work the rest HAVE TO be d15b2/z6 bolts.
Y8 b2 b2 b2 b2
b2 b2 b2 b2 b2
This is what a should look like..

When installing the head you need to use the y8 timing belt the b2 belt is way to big!

this is the new belt and water pump and timing tensioner.

When I was removing the water pump inside looked great so hopefully this engine last a lot longer then the y8!! lol



I will update as much as I can!! please enjoy and comment what you can recommend if you have done this swap before.

 

looks like the engine stuff is going smooth
i want to see the rest of the car ^_-

 

I tried to clean her up a bit but shes super dirty there is sooooo much work left to do.... You gotta love projects lol

 

Looking great! Nice progress so far on the build. Its always nice to see D-seriers rebuilt now days.

 

Thanks Man, Honestly I enjoy the simplicity of the d series it cheap and affordable most people could turbo their car and build it they just have to have some confidence lol

Also I just posted a Video its kinda like a little update and stuff I post the link here if any one is interested..

 

yea the 4 door is clean
take care of it man those cars are getting hard to find

 

Got the transmission ready for paint.

Got the wiring harness all complete for the DPFI to MPFI swap. This was probably the most difficult part of the swap.

I got the transmission all painted and the engine put back together. I ended up using a state 3 clutch off of eBay.

I got the valve cover painted and headers installed I put the stock ones back on due to the vehicle recently being involved in a fender bender.

Sorry for the mess but got my aftermarket front tracking bar installed.

The traction bar fit really well and I am super happy with it $98 shipped with two day shipping.

 

I got the car started today but it is not running right.
The engine is a D15b2 block
with a Y8 head. so I think the timing is off by a bit

The engine harness was converted to support the OBD2 dizzy and the ODB2 injectors
I am running Bosch 550cc injectors I will be upgrading my fuel pump to a 255 walbro

I have a t3/t4 50 trim eBay turbo kit im going to be installing
I just have to finish my level three inspection then I can finish the turbo setup.

Right now I am just going to use a p28 computer rather then using the PM6.

 

I got the car running and the timing was not the issue.
There was a problem with the map so my friend did a base map
and burn me a new chip.. I do have a check engine currently but
its for the crank angle sensor when doing the dpfi to mpfi it can get a
bit confusing because for obd2-obd0 is very different but I will posting a
new video soon...

 

Here goes the New Video!! lol

 

of course i know how to fix your problem
in my car im running obd1 ecu with obd2 dizzy also
but thats not your problem

your problem by watching your video I THINK is that you dont have a 4 wire o2 sensor hooked up yet
once thats hooked up properly your code 4 should go away

goodluck

 

Thanks! But I have the O2 sensors disabled I did figure out my issue and your not going to believe what is was !!

So After searching and searching I realized hey Why not test the jumper harness. I was looking at the jumper harness
and it turns out the person that created it wrongfully placed the Cylinder position sensor in the section that the
crank position sensor is suppose to be at. So I de-pinned the distributor and moved them around and still had the code
so at this point I got very frustrated and re-checked the jumper it turns out the CKP wire was split and giving off signal to
C1 & C16 which is the Oxygen sensor location why?? I dont know lol !! but I cut the wire and now the car is reacting
and no longer bogging down or back firing. So please any one who is having this issue it really is just the wiring !! lol

I will be posting a video breaking it down how I found the issue I think it will make more sense!

 

Okay after fixing the code 4 I ran into another issue for code 9 (No 1 cylinder position sensor)
So once again I looked and looked at the wiring i triple checked it and I did not know what was
the issue... So I though he why not tear apart the distributor and put different internals and while
I was taking apart the dizzy I noticed the CYP sensor was full of medial shavings. I cleaned it and
put it all back together and what do you know I fixed the issue. So my advise is don't go and buy
a new distributor and take the time to diagnose it. So the car is clear of all CEL but........

Now when I full throttle the car it bogs out might be a TPS issue lol its fun doing these mini me's but
also a pain in the ****... ;D

Please check out my instagram for short clips of the car (@Gogettergarage)

 

So I really have not had a whole lotta time to work on the civic. I have a couple of things coming up. I need to take the car to inspection due to it being involved in a fender bender just to make sure its street legal. After I can start installing the turbo kit good thing is I already have the injectors and fuel pump installed. I just recently got sponsored and I installed a LED bar that fit perfectly if your interested to see how I installed in and how it looks here is the video!

 

I got the old pump out and its huge lol

This is the new pump its a walbro 255 lph this helped out the bogging issue a lot

 

So I went down to my friends shop and he was looking at my map and it was super rich so he leaned it out a little and the car runs great but I noticed once I get on it ill blow the fuse for the alternator solenoid valve which oddly connects to the fuel pump and the main relay soooooo hopefully sometime this week I will be installing a fuel pump relay its really simply the only thing is I have to remove the fuel tank again but it should be good after this I made a little write up on how you can do this for all of my EF bros out there lol.

The relay should have 4 connects (maybe 5). if you look at the bottom where the connects are they should be marked there is 30, 87, 86, 85 and 87A if you got the five connection relay.

Here is how you should wire it:
- 30 connection will be going to the battery make sure you add a 20 amp inline fuse on that wire. also make sure you use 12 gauge wire that will insure the pump is getting the 12 volts make the flow optimum.
- 87 connection will be connecting to the positive connection on the pump!! do not splice the wires you need to remove the fuel pump and add new wiring that is 12 gauge.
- 86 connection will be connecting to the old fuel pump harness.
- 85 connection will be ground so you can just ground it near the location you will be placing the relay. for the ground I recommend 18 gauge wire.

I know this might be confusing but its really easy I will be doing a video on this so be sure to check out my channel YT: GoGetterGarage

Thank you and stay tuned!

 

I just put on some corner lights (JDM AF) lol shes starting to look like a car once again..

Got my hands on a new speedo as well so I can see when Vtec kicks in yo... lmao

I also picked up this spoiler it was on a ef sedan but I noticed it actually it comes off of a prelude SI.. But hey doesn't look bad

This is a the prelude spoiler and looks nice in my opinion...

 

She is looking better and better! lol I cant wait to get some of the body work done!

Got some of the body work done on the passenger side and its looking really good.

the driver side is a lot worse then the passenger side. I will be uploading a video how I do the repair.

I don't think I have a engine bay picture on here for you guys but check it out its looking pretty good.

 

Looks pretty good. What’s the blue thing with the gauge? Hope you moved that plug wire away from the exhaust manifold hah.

 

aftermarket fuel pressure regulator

 

might be kinda hard to see but I had the same head on this 99 civic sedan... I blew the block so that's why i'm doing the mini me.. I will also be adding turbo to the ef sedan! its going to be dope

 

One of the easiest thing to install on my civic was this quick release check out the video on how simple it was to install!

eBay turbo kit is installed and looking real nice just need to install the oil pan and its ready!

The Car looks amazing with the inter cooler exposed!

Just got the pan welded for the return line and I will be driving it tonight hopefully *fingers crossed*!

 

Almost forgot to add the video but here it goes if you're interested on watching me install my quick release!

 

the last piece to the puzzle