97 civic with rod knock
Was running low on oil and on my way home the car shut off and when I turned it back on, there was rod knock. Drove like 1000-2000 feet before putting in oil but obviously knock was still there. When I went to take of the Valve cover, I removed the spark plug wires and the first cylinder wire (closest to the driver side) had a bunch of oil on it. Why is that? (Valve cover maybe?) I am working on remove the head without taking out the engine as I don’t have the jacks/tools necessary. I was trying to get rid of the car anyways but I don’t wanna junk it for $300, I want to make Atleast $1k. I want to replace piston rings and all the bearings... can someone help me on how to quickly and easily get the right ones? D16y8 engine.
Sure. It's a really easy job anyone could do themselves. Because ya know life is easy. Unless you dont understand how cars work and why they need oil. You probably wont understand any of this then
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tures-3051143/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tures-3051143/
Sure. It's a really easy job anyone could do themselves. Because ya know life is easy. Unless you dont understand how cars work and why they need oil. You probably wont understand any of this then
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tures-3051143/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tures-3051143/
If you plan to fix the rod knock, change bearings, rings, and expect to sell for $1000, you'll probably end up getting pretty close to $300 after spending the money and labor to get it fixed.
Then you order what size is needed and measure with the plastigauge to ensure the bearings are within spec.
It’s a not do it yourself and bam, it’s done if your not familiar with mechanics and measuring. You’ll need to get the cylinders honed, file down rings if not within spec, measure piston to wall clearance, measure rod bearings and main bearings, have the block check for flatness, shave the head, replace all gaskets and seals, valve adjustment etc etc etc. Basically a whole stock motor swap will probably be better in the end if your just goin to sell it and be easier than putting in all that work and hope it’s goin to stay running right when you haven’t done your first rebuild and then sell it to some poor guy/girl and break down on them.
It’s a not do it yourself and bam, it’s done if your not familiar with mechanics and measuring. You’ll need to get the cylinders honed, file down rings if not within spec, measure piston to wall clearance, measure rod bearings and main bearings, have the block check for flatness, shave the head, replace all gaskets and seals, valve adjustment etc etc etc. Basically a whole stock motor swap will probably be better in the end if your just goin to sell it and be easier than putting in all that work and hope it’s goin to stay running right when you haven’t done your first rebuild and then sell it to some poor guy/girl and break down on them.
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Where can I find a cheap engine that bolts up to the same tranny? I have the d16y whatever without vtec. Don’t know exactly what it’s called. I want something that’s plug and play. Especially if I’m going to be paying like $500, I would like to have power in the bitch so resale could be higher.
Where can I find a cheap engine that bolts up to the same tranny? I have the d16y whatever without vtec. Don’t know exactly what it’s called. I want something that’s plug and play. Especially if I’m going to be paying like $500, I would like to have power in the bitch so resale could be higher.
You’ll have to google around to see where you can find for a good price. But hmotorsonline.com has 100% startup warranty guaranteed and low mileage, I would call them and see what they have.
Where can I find a cheap engine that bolts up to the same tranny? I have the d16y whatever without vtec. Don’t know exactly what it’s called. I want something that’s plug and play. Especially if I’m going to be paying like $500, I would like to have power in the bitch so resale could be higher.
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