'97 Oddysey Continuity testing my "odd" EGR
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'97 Oddysey Continuity testing my "odd" EGR
My EGR valve has a vacuum hose and an electrical connector.
I've watched all the videos, and Eric the Car guy stuff, and the internet is getting weak as far as info vs blogs that pretend to be info, so here I am. My EGR is probably the culprit according to Autozone's computer's interpretation of my 4 simultaneous codes (0301,0302,1300,1399). The problem I have is that all the info I have is close to what I need, except that the EGR valve on this thing has a vacuum hose AND an electrical connector. The vacuum end checks out with a hand pump vacuum tester as far as holding vacuum, but I have no clue how to "continuity test" the thing. Electrical is Greek to me, and normally I shy away, but this is a $330 part on a $3000, 135k van, so I wanna be sure it's bad before replacing it.
Following the best instructions I found, I set my new multimeter to ohms, and got some numbers between the pins. Problem is I have no way to interpret them that I trust since I'm electrically illiterate. Pins 1-2 i get 1.74, pins 2-3 I get 4.8, and pins 1-3 I get 4.2. Am I testing this right? It's not on the car but I read that it doesn't need to be to see if the thing is bad. Any help is appreciated.
I've watched all the videos, and Eric the Car guy stuff, and the internet is getting weak as far as info vs blogs that pretend to be info, so here I am. My EGR is probably the culprit according to Autozone's computer's interpretation of my 4 simultaneous codes (0301,0302,1300,1399). The problem I have is that all the info I have is close to what I need, except that the EGR valve on this thing has a vacuum hose AND an electrical connector. The vacuum end checks out with a hand pump vacuum tester as far as holding vacuum, but I have no clue how to "continuity test" the thing. Electrical is Greek to me, and normally I shy away, but this is a $330 part on a $3000, 135k van, so I wanna be sure it's bad before replacing it.
Following the best instructions I found, I set my new multimeter to ohms, and got some numbers between the pins. Problem is I have no way to interpret them that I trust since I'm electrically illiterate. Pins 1-2 i get 1.74, pins 2-3 I get 4.8, and pins 1-3 I get 4.2. Am I testing this right? It's not on the car but I read that it doesn't need to be to see if the thing is bad. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by Johnny Nonsense; Jul 31, 2019 at 01:27 AM.
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Re: '97 Oddysey Continuity testing my "odd" EGR
Before you dump money into the EGR valve, make sure that it is not the coil which is screwing you up. Move the ignition coils around and see if misfires follow. Then it would be a $40 part if you have a bad coil.
I assume your plugs have been replaced between 100 and 130k miles. They should be. I waited to replace mine until 140k miles (iridium, 2006 Pilot V6) and realized that I should have replaced them 20k ago. not sure what plugs 98 ody uses, but assume they are platinum, no?
Check your distributor cap and rotor too!
I assume your plugs have been replaced between 100 and 130k miles. They should be. I waited to replace mine until 140k miles (iridium, 2006 Pilot V6) and realized that I should have replaced them 20k ago. not sure what plugs 98 ody uses, but assume they are platinum, no?
Check your distributor cap and rotor too!
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