F23 issues
So I purchased an f23 a while back as a reserve engine. I wanted to check it's health with a leakdown test. Well timing is off and I dismantle the timing side and belt. First off the harmonic balance is a pain to get off and has a ridge of some sort where it was pressed onto the crank, then a lawn mower woodruff key falls out (the little half circle type. ) I manage to get the balancer gear off with convincing, but the crank gear won't slide off at all. It spins freely where it sits up until the end of the crank where it won't budge from. Is it worth pursuing this engine or giving up and finding another. I am unable to tell if the end is mushroomed
No. The crankshafts in these engines are forged and extremely, extremely durable. Sometimes the lower timing gears will get stuck or be stubborn just from being in it's place for so long. I usually use a small pry bar with a thin edge to get behind them and work them loose. Occasionally a little liquid wrench may be required to persuade it to leave it's home.
I will try some lube on the end then. The crank gear spins freely up until the end of the crank end then just stops like it's wedged, does not slide off easily like the 2 f22b1s or the d16z6 I've done in the past
Pictures would be helpful.
If it is mushroomed at the end of the snout then someone may have beat on the end of the crank, why anyone would I don't know.
Possibly someone worked on the engine before and didn't realize the damper is a slip fit rather than an interference fit, and my have tried to peen the end to create a slight interference fit to 'fix' the 'problem'.
Take a file to the area and carefully take off the burr.
If it is mushroomed at the end of the snout then someone may have beat on the end of the crank, why anyone would I don't know.
Possibly someone worked on the engine before and didn't realize the damper is a slip fit rather than an interference fit, and my have tried to peen the end to create a slight interference fit to 'fix' the 'problem'.
Take a file to the area and carefully take off the burr.
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Just stick a pry bar behind the gear and smack the other end with a rubber mallet. Use the side of the block as your leverage point. It should come off with a little persuasion. Clean up the crank snout, gear and pulley with some emery paper after you get the gear off and you should be fine.
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